So the entire interior of the head tube needs to be masked, or just the first couple of inches on both ends?
An inch or so inside each end is good.
And you will still have to clean up the ends with a razor, or have the headtube faced & chased.
This also applies to the BB shell.
They said they'd mask the BB threads - but I'll have to be sure to check on the other threaded areas.
And the seat tube! That should be masked at least 3 inches in!
All the small threads can easily be retapped with $10 worth of tools from the hardware store.
AND ANOTHER spot to MASK! The fork crown race seat!!!
Many folks don't have the tool to remove the fork crown race, so be sure to mask the race!
If you DO remove the fork crown race, then mask the part of the steer tube where the race seats onto the crown.
Got that?
And masking the threads (if any) at the top of the steer tube is a good idea.
No powder where you DON'T want it!
Originally Posted by
repechage
An image or better two of the seat lug, powdercoat after a year or two is where the difference with wet paint starts.
????
?
I'll take a shot at it though.
Are you saying that ...you'de like to see a couple of pictures of the seat cluster after 2 years of use,
then you will see why wet paint is so much better/worse than powdercoat?
As well as I can understand Yoda, that was still a bit tough.
But continue the conversation with myself, that YOU started...
If the powdercoat is looking somewhat compromised after two years of use, this is why I constantly indicate getting a clear coat, wether it's clear powdercoat or clear automotive paint, to build durability & longevity into the new finish.