First off, standover height is waaaayyyyy overstated. Read the Rivendell site, they are radical on some things (such as soft shoes and foot retention systems) but their thoughts on frame sizing match my experiences perfectly.
Second. When you talk about a 25" frame, how is this measured?
My Trek520 is a 23" frame, measured from the bottom bracket to the top of the seat tube ... which just happens to stick about a mile above the top tube. It's really a 21" frame (bb to top tube) with the shortness of reach that that entails. This has made getting the handlebars in the right spot damned near impossible.
Third. You can NOT simply raise the bars on modern bikes. If the 412 (which I dont' know) has a quill, you're laughing. If it's got that damned stupid threadless set up, raising the bars is expensive and difficult. You'll need to buy necks and possibly a neck extender - that's right, the 'engineering solution' is to keep bolting bits together to replace a single one piece unit (end rant of threadlesss - it works when you want the bars at the top of the head stem, it becomes rapidly less sensible as you go higher). This last has actually been the killer on my 520 which is a frame size too small for me.
Forget standover - as long as the top tube isn't pressing into your groin, you're right. I've got two bikes that touch the groin and neither give me dramas.
My Jamis is the highest (a 62cm frame) - it presses against my groin when I stand over it. I need a 35 degree stem to get the bars high enough but at those angles, you can't adjust height without stuffing up reach so getting both reach and height right is a matter of luck.
The important things are handle bar height and reach, not standover. You need to be able to mount those bars where YOU want them. You need to be looking at the length of the top tube and, if it's a threadless headset (as opposed to a quill), you need to be looking at headset height as well.
Richard