Old 02-26-09, 12:37 PM
  #6  
sekaijin
Senior Member
 
sekaijin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Madison, Wisconsin
Posts: 1,140

Bikes: 2000 Litespeed Classic, 1984 Schwinn LeTour, 1998 Gary Fisher Marlin, 1969 Hercules, 1977 Sekai 5000 Superlite, 1993 Koga-Myata TerraLiner, 2013 Trek Farley.

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Banzai View Post
The "auto-trim" isn't flawed at all. Sheldon had it wrong. If you observe closely, it doesn't turn the lever, it actually, in effect, movest the post or boss that the lever is attached to in order to alter cable pull. The key to making this work right is to set up the front cable tension at the relaxed/most inboard setting while the rear derailer is on the largest cog.
I'll never disagree with Sheldon but I get your point - that it trims the FD by sliding the post up and down the downtube. What's getting me mixed up is, when I pull the RD lever down (weirdly, I'm forgetting if that is downshifting or upshifting - it's as if I'm dyslexic) do I want the FD shifter to slide down in tandem with it, or slide in the opposite direction? It can reassemble either way depending how you position the cam. Does that question make sense? (from memory, I'm thinking you want opposite direction movement)

Originally Posted by Banzai View Post
1) Take apart shifters to clean. Be meticulous about laying out the parts in such a way that they can be re-assembled.

2) Attempt to re-assemble. Realize that even with your careful efforts, you can't make it work.

3) Go to C&V on bikeforums looking for help.

4) Go to e-bay and find another symmetric shifter for around $15.
5) It arrives dirty and you want it clean ... go to step 1 and repeat!
sekaijin is offline