Old 05-04-09, 06:42 AM
  #15  
queerpunk
aka mattio
 
queerpunk's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 6,511
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 311 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 8 Times in 5 Posts
Wait, wait. There's an easier way, really. There is almost definitely no need to break your chain or remove your chainring. Seriously.

If you can't derail the chain easily with your fingers because the hub sits too far forward in the track ends (note that they are not dropouts), you can still get the chain off.

1. Loosen nuts.
2. Use a thin wrench or anything to put some light lateral pressure on a chain while you spin the wheel slowly. Basically pretend it's a derailleur and "shift" the chain off of the cog.
3. Remove wheel.

Pretty much what stryper said.

When you get the chain back on do the same thing in reverse, sort of. Get the chain on one tooth or the cog and spin the wheel so that it's re-railed. I have to do this at the track when I put my riding-home gear on, 50x17 (from 50-15, my racing gear), which, for my chain and my fairly short trackends on my TK2, is kind of a tight fit.

But really, imagine you're in a situation where, say, you need to fix a flat tire. If your approach necessitates taking your chain apart or removing a chainring, then you're doing something wrong.
queerpunk is offline