Spondy
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Hello! I have a grade 1 or 2 spondylolisthesis (so a couple of vertebrae have slipped out of place). Maybe due to a fall running, lifting too much weight for too long, or just age - i am 46. And they have told me to stop running. After 32 years running, i am lost! And going crazy!
I have been a fair-weather mountain biker for years too, but the other day i tried to cycle and my back hurt on the bumps.
So i am looking to try road biking. The idea of riding next to cars is scary, but am willing to risk it at last.
I also swim a bit (no breast stroke), and do core strengthening exercises/pilates (have done these for years luckily), and weights to strengthen my upper back. But i am really missing getting out in the fresh air to exercise!! Walking just doesnī't cut it.
So what road bike would you suggest for a female (so short reach), who should keep relatively upright whilst cycling to not aggravate the lower back pain?
Please help, i am desperate to get hooked on another sport!!
I have been a fair-weather mountain biker for years too, but the other day i tried to cycle and my back hurt on the bumps.
So i am looking to try road biking. The idea of riding next to cars is scary, but am willing to risk it at last.
I also swim a bit (no breast stroke), and do core strengthening exercises/pilates (have done these for years luckily), and weights to strengthen my upper back. But i am really missing getting out in the fresh air to exercise!! Walking just doesnī't cut it.
So what road bike would you suggest for a female (so short reach), who should keep relatively upright whilst cycling to not aggravate the lower back pain?
Please help, i am desperate to get hooked on another sport!!
#2
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I herniated a disc at age 37 in 1993. Laminectomy to clean it out. It took 9 months before I could ride again an then only on an upright bike. Newer surgical techniques should have a faster recovery than my 1993 surgery. I'm far better now but I usually put short stems on my road bikes so I don't bend over like I did when racing. Tore the next disc up 6 years later. And strained the spine every few years since. latest was last year. I got a Teeter inversion table over 20 years ago and that has done wonders. I can go from an old bent over man barely able to move to standing straight up and walking pain free in 5 minutes. Takes up a lot of space in the spare bedroom but it's worth having available at a moments notice. I've installed 1" riser bars on my 2 medium size mountain bikes which I now consider to be too small for me. I have a large mtb which is a better fit now. I don't ride single track anymore so the less clearance isn't an issue.
There were some tri bikes that used beam top tubes. Softride and TitanFlex. With no seat stays. So road shock just doesn't get to the saddle. Most are very adjustable so they can be fitted to shorter riders. The Softride Alsop beam is rather bulky and does get in the way. The TitanFlex was a superior design but they made far fewer of them and are no longer being made. You might find a used one. Most were sold to tri-athletes but they work as road bikes just fine.
There are full suspension mountain bikes which reduces the shock. My "good" mtb is a Specialized Stumpjumper FSR and it works very well. No cheap walmart bikes will do. And shock seat posts. And overly padded seats with coil springs. I have 2 complaints about most shock seat posts. First you have to raise the seat an extra bit to counter how much it settles with your weight on it. That makes it harder to mount. Second is many have a bit of twisting wobble.
IMO, the more upright you are on the bike, the more directly the shock from bumps goes up the spine. A somewhat bent over position is much more comfortable for me. A full "comfort" bike where you ride straight up is pretty awful to ride. You can't get much power to the pedals, you catch the maximum head wind and the less weight on the front wheel makes the bike more squirrely.
There were some tri bikes that used beam top tubes. Softride and TitanFlex. With no seat stays. So road shock just doesn't get to the saddle. Most are very adjustable so they can be fitted to shorter riders. The Softride Alsop beam is rather bulky and does get in the way. The TitanFlex was a superior design but they made far fewer of them and are no longer being made. You might find a used one. Most were sold to tri-athletes but they work as road bikes just fine.
There are full suspension mountain bikes which reduces the shock. My "good" mtb is a Specialized Stumpjumper FSR and it works very well. No cheap walmart bikes will do. And shock seat posts. And overly padded seats with coil springs. I have 2 complaints about most shock seat posts. First you have to raise the seat an extra bit to counter how much it settles with your weight on it. That makes it harder to mount. Second is many have a bit of twisting wobble.
IMO, the more upright you are on the bike, the more directly the shock from bumps goes up the spine. A somewhat bent over position is much more comfortable for me. A full "comfort" bike where you ride straight up is pretty awful to ride. You can't get much power to the pedals, you catch the maximum head wind and the less weight on the front wheel makes the bike more squirrely.
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I herniated a disc at age 37 in 1993. Laminectomy to clean it out. It took 9 months before I could ride again an then only on an upright bike. Newer surgical techniques should have a faster recovery than my 1993 surgery. I'm far better now but I usually put short stems on my road bikes so I don't bend over like I did when racing. Tore the next disc up 6 years later. And strained the spine every few years since. latest was last year. I got a Teeter inversion table over 20 years ago and that has done wonders. I can go from an old bent over man barely able to move to standing straight up and walking pain free in 5 minutes. Takes up a lot of space in the spare bedroom but it's worth having available at a moments notice. I've installed 1" riser bars on my 2 medium size mountain bikes which I now consider to be too small for me. I have a large mtb which is a better fit now. I don't ride single track anymore so the less clearance isn't an issue.
There were some tri bikes that used beam top tubes. Softride and TitanFlex. With no seat stays. So road shock just doesn't get to the saddle. Most are very adjustable so they can be fitted to shorter riders. The Softride Alsop beam is rather bulky and does get in the way. The TitanFlex was a superior design but they made far fewer of them and are no longer being made. You might find a used one. Most were sold to tri-athletes but they work as road bikes just fine.
There are full suspension mountain bikes which reduces the shock. My "good" mtb is a Specialized Stumpjumper FSR and it works very well. No cheap walmart bikes will do. And shock seat posts. And overly padded seats with coil springs. I have 2 complaints about most shock seat posts. First you have to raise the seat an extra bit to counter how much it settles with your weight on it. That makes it harder to mount. Second is many have a bit of twisting wobble.
IMO, the more upright you are on the bike, the more directly the shock from bumps goes up the spine. A somewhat bent over position is much more comfortable for me. A full "comfort" bike where you ride straight up is pretty awful to ride. You can't get much power to the pedals, you catch the maximum head wind and the less weight on the front wheel makes the bike more squirrely.
There were some tri bikes that used beam top tubes. Softride and TitanFlex. With no seat stays. So road shock just doesn't get to the saddle. Most are very adjustable so they can be fitted to shorter riders. The Softride Alsop beam is rather bulky and does get in the way. The TitanFlex was a superior design but they made far fewer of them and are no longer being made. You might find a used one. Most were sold to tri-athletes but they work as road bikes just fine.
There are full suspension mountain bikes which reduces the shock. My "good" mtb is a Specialized Stumpjumper FSR and it works very well. No cheap walmart bikes will do. And shock seat posts. And overly padded seats with coil springs. I have 2 complaints about most shock seat posts. First you have to raise the seat an extra bit to counter how much it settles with your weight on it. That makes it harder to mount. Second is many have a bit of twisting wobble.
IMO, the more upright you are on the bike, the more directly the shock from bumps goes up the spine. A somewhat bent over position is much more comfortable for me. A full "comfort" bike where you ride straight up is pretty awful to ride. You can't get much power to the pedals, you catch the maximum head wind and the less weight on the front wheel makes the bike more squirrely.