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New York Fahgettaboudit mini - too small?

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New York Fahgettaboudit mini - too small?

Old 03-20-07, 11:59 AM
  #1  
whitelines2
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New York Fahgettaboudit mini - too small?

hi,

First post here so i'm not sure if this is the right place to post this thread. I want to buy a good lock for my Gazelle Punta which i will be buying soon. I live in an area where alot of bikes get stolen and because i will have a new bike i need a strong lock. I'm not sure if the NY Fahgettaboudit mini U-lock or the NY 3000 U-lock would best suit my needs. I'm worried that the mini wouldn't be big enough to fit around the frame and also the bicycle racks which we have here in the netherlands. I will be buying the lock by mail order which is why i can't try it out for myself. Thanks for your advice.
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Old 03-20-07, 07:59 PM
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The smaller U locks give a theif less leverage room to try to pop the lock off with a tire iron or car jack but if it isn't long enough for where you normally park, you have little choice the NY Fahgettaboudit is as good as it gets but if a determined theif wants it....The more you make him work the less he may be inclined to take yours, maybe add one or two more less expensive locks...you might also take the seat & post with you to make it a little more difficult to ride or the front wheel if you have a place to put it...
Good Luck!
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Old 03-23-07, 05:55 PM
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My "mini" size u-locks easily fit around the rear wheel of my road bikes and hybrid bikes and a beefy pole, such as a traditional parking meter pole. It is a snug fit around a mountain bike wheel, forcing me to look around for thinner locking poles than I prefer.

The Fahgettaboudit is bigger than my "mini" locks, and so should work with any wheel using the "rear wheel to parking meter" method.

Put your u-lock ONLY around the rear wheel, just behind the seat tube. NEVER put a u-lock around any part of the frame. Crack heads have learned with Wal-Mart bikes (and their fifteen pound frames) that they can lift up the bike and use the bike's frame as a lever to break Wal-Mart u-locks. When crack heads use the "lift and twist" method with a bike that has a Kryptonite u-lock and a three pound frame, they end up turning the frame into a pretzel...
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Old 03-23-07, 08:42 PM
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If you need a picture of alanbikehouston's description, head on over to Sheldon Brown's website:

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html
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Old 03-24-07, 07:05 AM
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I was a little disappointed when I saw what the Kryptonite "$4500" coverage actually entailed (lower for some models). Yes, I was naive, but I thought that they believed so strongly in their product that they could afford to buy you a new bike if you could prove it was the U-lock that failed.

They don't give you much at all. The bottom line: if your bike is insured they will pay for the deductible which really isn't a whole lot. Also, the free "coverage" is only for a year. I figure if they trust their lock after a year why not trust it after 3 years? Why not 5 years? Me thinks lawyers and accountants are at fault for these shortcomings.

They should also sell that big-ass chain for the 18-mm U-lock as that would solve your problem whitelines2. I would buy one. Heck, they don't even sell the smaller hex chain by itself. I'm complaining a lot on this post. Sorry.
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Old 03-24-07, 07:28 AM
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Sheldon's U-lock Technique

I don't know a thing about stealing a bike, but I don't know if I agree with locking the bike in the fashion mentioned in that article by Sheldon Brown (linked by fat_bike_nut). He says it's not worth stealing a frame with a ruined rear wheel. I blew a good deal of money on my bike and ruining a $500 rim is definitely worth it to get a $1200 frame (with good parts) and a $500 front wheel. Also, is it really that difficult to cut through those tiny little thin racing tires with a big cutter?
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Old 03-24-07, 08:49 AM
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you still have to get the lock from around the seat tube. What then? This will also take some time unless you brought some sort of grinder.

I like my kryptonite lock, but I'm not expecting them to buy me a new bike if someone shows up with a grinder and a lot of free time.
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Old 03-24-07, 09:59 AM
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In the link to that picture of Sheldon's bike the U-lock is not around the seat tube it's only through the whee/tire.

Your point is valid in that most new bikes don't have that kind of room between the wheel and the seat tube anymore. As I don't have my new bike yet and haven't ridden one in years I didn't realize this.

I visited Giant's site to see a pic of my new bike. I now understand that to put the U-lock through the wheel would also be to put it around the seat tube. Is that what you meant Falkon?
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Old 03-24-07, 10:05 AM
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I've had no problem putting U-locks around the tires of my Trek bike. There should certainly be some distance between the tire and the frame...and the locks are not that thick.
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Old 03-25-07, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by rINGrING
In the link to that picture of Sheldon's bike the U-lock is not around the seat tube it's only through the whee/tire.

Your point is valid in that most new bikes don't have that kind of room between the wheel and the seat tube anymore. As I don't have my new bike yet and haven't ridden one in years I didn't realize this.

I visited Giant's site to see a pic of my new bike. I now understand that to put the U-lock through the wheel would also be to put it around the seat tube. Is that what you meant Falkon?
When I lock, I lock through the whole rear triangle. That means around the rear wheel and around the seat tube. I have a Fuji Cross bike, so it has a decent amount of distance between the rear wheel and the seat tube.

My complete locking technique is the U-lock in the rear with a cable attached that loops around the downtube and front wheel.
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Old 03-26-07, 03:43 AM
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Gizmocat, I could not fit my pinky in the space between rear tire and seat tube and my Fahgettaboudit U-lock's also quite thick being 18-mm across (which is pretty darn thick). Thanks for reply Falkon and Gizmocat.
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