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What exactly do you get with a better suspension fork?

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Old 11-20-05, 01:20 PM
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What exactly do you get with a better suspension fork?

(Please don't link to the Fork thread- already read it.)

I have entry level nysync forks on my two Trek 4300's. I mainly just ride on gravel and dirt roads. What benefit will i get by springing for a $300 fork as opposed to the one i already have? Thanks.
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Old 11-20-05, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Ranger
(Please don't link to the Fork thread- already read it.)

I have entry level nysync forks on my two Trek 4300's. I mainly just ride on gravel and dirt roads. What benefit will i get by springing for a $300 fork as opposed to the one i already have? Thanks.
lighter weight, wider range of adjustability, supple action w/o harsh bottoming
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Old 11-20-05, 03:47 PM
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Not always lighter weight. Generally the damping system (compression and rebound) is more suited to the riding style you select. On xc forks it is stiff at the top becoming, in theory, soft once you get past the first few inches. This would allow the fork to react to bumps but not react to peddle bobbing. On fr and dh forks we use a lot of sag. The fork needs to ramp up suitably to take a bit hit while also being active enough to take VERY fast bumps.

Being able to adjust those (rebound, compression, especially high and low speed and preload) allow perfect tuning of the fork for the rider. With cheaper forks you don't get very much of a damping system. Usually a small hole in the pumping rod, spring and some oil. All adjustments are done with oil and wrenches and for the really skilled, a small drill bit.

For the bigger forks you also get stiffer. My z150 is stiff, my 66rc is beasty next to it. My old monster T made my 66 look like a pinner fork. Xc forks tend to get light, Ti materials, minimizing weight for better xc performance. a 3in quality xc fork will feel as good as a 4 to 5 in crap fork. Quality suspension vs quantity

Now do you need a better fork. I don't know, do you notice a weakness in your fork. Are you going fast enough to notice its poor damping, are you going big enough to bottom the fork out while still needing the fork to be active. Do you need a fork that weighs 2pnds less than your current model. Does the fork flex if you hit a technical section. If you answered NO to any of these questions, than stick with what you have. I only upgraded when I could see my fork flexing. It would twist and shout all the way down the trail. I sold my exr really quickly and paid for something more suitable.
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Old 11-20-05, 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Maelstrom

Now do you need a better fork. I don't know, do you notice a weakness in your fork. Are you going fast enough to notice its poor damping, are you going big enough to bottom the fork out while still needing the fork to be active. Do you need a fork that weighs 2pnds less than your current model. Does the fork flex if you hit a technical section. If you answered NO to any of these questions, than stick with what you have. I only upgraded when I could see my fork flexing. It would twist and shout all the way down the trail. I sold my exr really quickly and paid for something more suitable.
I really liked your response to the OP. At the risk of sounding ignorant, I'm not clear on what you mean by flex. I'm assuming you are reffering to something more than just the preload setting and how soft the fork is set. I'd really appreciate your expanding on this. Thanks in advance.
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Old 11-20-05, 04:14 PM
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Generally when speaking of flex you can refer to lateral or torsional. The typical wheel in between the knees and twist will give you an idea of how flexy a fork is. Obviously this isn't a true indicator, simply a way of demonstrating how it can 'flex' during the ride. This is torsional, how much the wheel twists while riding, some forks have lots of flex and some don't. Some riders like flex, its like having side to side suspension, I am not a fan however.

Lateral is the movement of the fork side to side. No way to really test this but it does happen. Ride through a rock garden and watch you fork. There will be varrying amounts of play in the fork from side to side.

Lighter riders may not notice either, but myself at 270 riding dh really notices a difference between a 300$ fork and a 1000$ fork, for example. My old exr was so flexy it almost turned completely. The wheel was 90 degrees while my hands were still forward.

Also to elaborate on high end damping, you generally only notice large improvements when going really fast and/or exceptionally technical terrain.
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Old 11-20-05, 07:53 PM
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Maelstrom, Many thanks for that excellent explanation. I have a low end fork, a Manitou Axel, that came stock on my Rockhopper. I've not noticed flex, but then I wasn't looking for it, but I will in the future.
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Old 11-20-05, 09:30 PM
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Can you answer me a question about the Axel rocco?

Is it really squishy? Or does it feel stiff (hard to compress i mean)?
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Old 11-21-05, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Ranger
(Please don't link to the Fork thread- already read it.)

I have entry level nysync forks on my two Trek 4300's. I mainly just ride on gravel and dirt roads. What benefit will i get by springing for a $300 fork as opposed to the one i already have? Thanks.
You could look into upgrading the spring to a stiffer or softer spring also for little of nothing instead of purchasing a new shock. Just something to think about.

I bought a used Rockshox Duke fork for $100 with pump and it's a huge upgrade to my Trek 4300. I'm usually not down with buying used parts but it was owned by a guy that owns a LBS so it was in great shape as well as recently rebuilt.
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Old 11-21-05, 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Flak
Can you answer me a question about the Axel rocco?

Is it really squishy? Or does it feel stiff (hard to compress i mean)?
Flak, IMHO, the Axel is not squishy. I have it turned to the softest position, due to a neck injury, and it is still reasonably stiff. Two other MTB'ers road this Rockhopper with the fork set to softest position and they remarked it still had decent rebound, good damping and no bottoming out. BUT, I do not put a lot of air under my bike due partly to my neck and partly to the trails I ride don't lend themselves to jumps. On the other hand, when turned to the hard position, the fork is quite stiff. We have two other entry level forks, a RST capa and a Suntour SR 3000. Both are capable entry level units, but IMHO, the Axel is better if only because it does have one adjustment. Hope this helps.
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