CrimsonKarter21

Does anyone know if you HAVE to use ceramic-specific pads with these?
I like the looks of the ceramic because I'm sick of all silver rims, and "black" rims with a silver braking surface.

Plus, they're supposed to be stronger, and with the roads around here mixed with the recession I'm going to need all the strength I can get from my rims.

asmallsol

Not sure if they are any stronger, but I feel the same way of machine lips. I picked them up because of the blackish lips (they are actually kind of a dull grey)

That being said, you don't "have" to run special pads, however, if you run normal rubber pads, they were down SUPER fast, and they are extremely grabby (not consistent) I've ran them with Kool Stop greens (designed just for ceramic braking surfaces) and they brake well, however, aren't really good if you switch to a wheel that has an aluminum braking surface. I've switch to zipp's carbon-carbon pads which work great on both the ceramic mavics, and my aluminum machined Easton EA-90's

CrimsonKarter21

I'm goign to be switching between ceramic and carbon braking surfaces if I get these, do you know if the brake pads will work with both of those at al, or would I be better off talking to my Zipp guy?

asmallsol

The zipp carbon-carbon pads were designed for carbon braking surfaces. As you know, carbon wheels generate heat. Typically polymers (which most pads are) do not conduct heat, which is part of the problem. The solution used to be to run cork pads which just don't generate as much heat, but overall, suck. Zipp claims that these pads actually conduct heat well, which means you can get the same braking as a normal rubber pad, without the heat buildup which causes normal pads to practically melt to the wheels.


Most carbon wheels actually have some type of surface that is different from the epoxy matrix, typically a silica based ceramic, so these pads were designed to be able to stand up to the roughness ceramic braking surfaces present.

They also claim they can be used for can be used for aluminum braking surfaces, and I read some good reviews (although some mixed) so I bought a pair so I wouldn't have to keep switching from DA pads for my race wheels and the kool stops for my training wheels.

DSchlichting

The "ceramic" is just a spray coating of ceramic on the flange of the rim. So I rather doubt if there is any strength difference. In fact, if you have really bad roads, you should know that this surface can chip off.
I have Mavic ceramic rims on 3 of my 4 bikes, with the oldest installation going back to 1997. One of the bikes runs those green ceramic specific brake pads. The others have Campy Record brakes of various vintages and run standard Campy brake pads. The first set wore down in a few months, but after that, the pads have been in place for many years with no problems. The real advantage of the ceramic surface is the performance in the rain. There is also better performance dry, but the wet weather performance is the real selling point, IMO.

blindvelcro

CK let us know what Zipp says, I use the green koolstops on my OpenPro Ceramic CDs and am looking at a pair of carbon race wheels. I would like to know if there is something to use on both as well.

kergin

Uh, you don't need to get ceramic to get black open pros. open pros come in three coatings:

1. Bare machined
2. CD (couche dure) - BLACK anodized rim
3. Ceramic

ok_commuter

And in fact and unfortunately, if you want 28h drilled you're stuck with black. If you know any different, please show me where.

grolby

Stronger? I doubt it. Ceramic rims were one of the stupider trends in 90's cycling. They fell from favor when people figured out how much they actually suck. Have fun with them.

CrimsonKarter21

Hmmmm, on second thought I'll probably go with the CD rim. It's about $20 less (MSRP, but who pays that?), and I could use Swisstop Yellow pads.