Need to flush out STI brifter, best flushing chemical?
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Need to flush out STI brifter, best flushing chemical?
I have a 9 speed right side brifter that functions but is not smooth. I think the problem is that its got dirt or sand inside it. Feels very gritty when you upshift but downshifting isn't as bad.
I need to really flush the insides of it out. I have used WD40 and that is what got the brifter working however it didn't flush out the dirt.
I'm thinking of using something like brake cleaner or carb cleaner but I don't want to damage the plastics used in the brifter or do others have better chemical suggestions?
I need to really flush the insides of it out. I have used WD40 and that is what got the brifter working however it didn't flush out the dirt.
I'm thinking of using something like brake cleaner or carb cleaner but I don't want to damage the plastics used in the brifter or do others have better chemical suggestions?
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I just did a set of RSX brifters that would rarely shift at all... I used Liquid Wrench Penatrating Oil followed by Liquid Wrench Dry Lube (Liquid Wrench products were 2 for $6 at Autozone).
They now work perfectly... Very smooth and not a missed shift since! YMMV, as your shifters are a bit newer and may have more plastic pieces inside.
https://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=828539_0_0_
https://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=41736_0_0_
They now work perfectly... Very smooth and not a missed shift since! YMMV, as your shifters are a bit newer and may have more plastic pieces inside.
https://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=828539_0_0_
https://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=41736_0_0_
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I would not recommend anything stronger than WD-40 for the initial flush (and LOTS of it). I follow that with spray can, chain lube, because it leaves a new lubricant. If that combo doesn't work, the brifter is probably shot. I've been successful almost every time. The few times it didn't work, the shifter turned out to be mechanically broken. I've used on both road brifters and MTB shifters with much success.
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Stay away from the brake cleaner. Most will damage any non-metal parts and can remove paint. WD-40 is about one of the best chemicals for flushing brifters. It dissolves grease, won't harm any brifter parts or paint and stays wet for awhile so you can soak the stubborn gunk. Best to spray, let sit for a few hours and spray again to flush out the remaining spooge. If you have access to an air compressor blow out the internals to dry the WD-40 and apply some proper lube or if no air is available let the WD-40 dry out a couple days before lubing.
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Oh doh!! I totally forgot about compressed air. Great idea. I will go buy another can of wd40 and then flush the snot out of it and then blow it out. Maybe that will get rid of the sand in it.
It is functioning fine, just gritty which bothers me.
And then I will lube it with a good lube.
It is functioning fine, just gritty which bothers me.
And then I will lube it with a good lube.
#7
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Just to repeat what everybody else has said, I've brought a 9spd 105 shifter back from what I thought was death with wd40. It was packed with a ton of sand after a botched dismount on a beach during 'cross season. It took much more wd40 than I would have expected (probably half of a med can) but it works as well as new now.
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As a cleaner, WD-40 is pretty much a convienient (and expensive) form of Kerosene or Odorless Mineral Spirits (OMS). You can buy either in quart or gallon cans at any hardware or paint store. I've salvaged STI brifters by removing them from the bars and soaking them in a plastic container of OMS for several hours with a lot of agitation. It's amazing what came out. Shake them or air blow to dry off the solvent and lube with Tri-Flow or similar light oil.
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Lately I've had success flushing with WD40 and then lubing with Boeshield T9 which is a lubricant.
Some levers need a simple flush-n-lube others need deep cleaning.
Some levers need a simple flush-n-lube others need deep cleaning.
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I clicked on this thread because pretty soon I need to give my left 6600 shifter it's first flush. When it's cold, and sometimes when it's not, I have to push the shift lever multiple times before the tiny ratchet inside will engage and allow the shift to happen (shifting from large -> small ring). Sounds like WD-40 is the solution...so when I finally get frustrated enough with the issue I'll take that approach. I'll probably remove the entire shifter so I don't coat my entire bar with dripping solvent.
-Jeremy
#12
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White lightning clean streak spray works pretty darn good. They make another one that is clean streak degreaser and lube mixed together, also works.
Lube is absolutely necessary after the regular clean streak spray, it completely dissolves anything and everything.
Lube is absolutely necessary after the regular clean streak spray, it completely dissolves anything and everything.
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I've had great results with my ultrasonic cleaner, using Simple Green in solution, rinse with hot, hot, hot water. Then dry with compressed air and lightly oil
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I've been steadily acquiring respect for OMS from Home Depot. It actually is pretty odorless, and while not as powerful as old school mineral spirits, it usually does the job.