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Beach Cruisers Do you love balloon tires and fenders? Do you love riding the simplicity of a single gear and coaster brakes or a single gear cluster? Do you love the classic curves in the tubing of a cruiser that takes you back to the 1950's and 1960's, stylistically? Here's your home! Welcome to the Beach Cruisers and Cruisers forum!

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Old 01-11-18, 10:36 PM   #76
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So do you think 14 balls would be acceptable without too much space between them?
For sure! And one less under the driver as well.

If you pull one ball out and use a pick or whatever your favorite tool is for arranging loose balls, you'll see how they all just kinda relax and say "Ahhh" and fall into their happy place. Did you notice that when you were placing the balls it took some gymnastics to get them all into position, and stay put? I sure did. And that's what caused me to investigate. I think I read in Sheldon's writings that when replacing caged ball with loose balls that the minimum total leftover gap (what would remain if you pushed all the balls into contact with one another) would be a space equal to the size of a ball.

The rule that I was taught is "One too few is always better than one too many. Full minus one." Or, "If you can only fit one more, don't, it's already perfect. If you can't fit another in, take one out, it's already too full."

As you know, it's best if the balls are separated by grease and don't roll against each other because they roll in opposite directions where they would touch each other. Gap is GOOD.

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Old 01-12-18, 05:05 AM   #77
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For sure! And one less under the driver as well.

If you pull one ball out and use a pick or whatever your favorite tool is for arranging loose balls, you'll see how they all just kinda relax and say "Ahhh" and fall into their happy place. Did you notice that when you were placing the balls it took some gymnastics to get them all into position, and stay put? I sure did. And that's what caused me to investigate. I think I read in Sheldon's writings that when replacing caged ball with loose balls that the minimum total leftover gap (what would remain if you pushed all the balls into contact with one another) would be a space equal to the size of a ball.

The rule that I was taught is "One too few is always better than one too many. Full minus one." Or, "If you can only fit one more, don't, it's already perfect. If you can't fit another in, take one out, it's already too full."

As you know, it's best if the balls are separated by grease and don't roll against each other because they roll in opposite directions where they would touch each other. Gap is GOOD.

.
Being a man, I always thought that the loss of a ball would be too traumatic to bear.

Seriously, Brother, I'll try it. Thanks for your advice.
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Old 01-12-18, 07:39 AM   #78
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Being a man, I always thought that the loss of a ball would be too traumatic to bear.

Seriously, Brother, I'll try it. Thanks for your advice.
Back in the late '70s (early '80s) I worked for this old school mechanic at a shop. He had a rep for building very strong wheels. One of his tricks was to remove a free ball for a little less friction. I don't remember ever seeing a hub with damage from this practice.
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Old 01-12-18, 09:14 AM   #79
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Back in the late '70s (early '80s) I worked for this old school mechanic at a shop. He had a rep for building very strong wheels. One of his tricks was to remove a free ball for a little less friction. I don't remember ever seeing a hub with damage from this practice.

This takes me back. My very first after-school job was working in an old Raleigh shop up in Maine (1972). There was an old geezer there who was the mechanic. He had some old ways, which being just a kid; I thought were crazy at the time. Now I still practice some of his old methods.
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Old 01-12-18, 12:20 PM   #80
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Do an experiment. Remove one testicle, push all the remaining testicles together, leaving a gap at one area, put the cone in place, and see if it will rock.
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Old 01-12-18, 12:45 PM   #81
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Do an experiment. Remove one testicle, push all the remaining testicles together, leaving a gap at one area, put the cone in place, and see if it will rock.
Did it. Worked excellent!

Here's the bike so far. I finished the wheels this morning. I've been fiddling about with the Park Tool wheel tension app, and I'm convinced that its fluff and a waste of time. I say that because if you use the a tension gauge then you already know the status of the wheel, and how well it'll perform. Fluff. The only way to use it properly is to use a P&K Lie stand, which is so awesome you'll never need the app anyway. Okay, sorry for the rant. /rant







The pics are rather dark, and for that I apologize. I need a better camera and the skills to use it. Or... maybe Austin Powers to take the pics for me? "Yeah! Yeah Yeah, Baby! Aaaaaand I'm spent." *tosses the camera*

Next up is making a seatpost. I buggered the old one pretty bad just taking it out. I've got some precision-ground rod that will do very nicely.
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Old 01-12-18, 01:08 PM   #82
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Did it. Worked excellent!

A few things...

1. I rudely neglected to offer condolences for the storm damage. What a hassle, I'm sure.
2. Those bars look brutal in the "behind" photo. Badass
3. I was going to ask this morning, Knobby or slick? I have my answer.
4. The crank and sprocket look awesome. Especially where the crank exits the sprocket. It has an "All business" tough beefy look.
5. What length are the crank arms? Are my eyes wonky? They look extra long?
6. I read a photo tip here many years ago, from a wise fellow (doesn't hang out anymore) who took killer photos. He said, (paraphrasing) "Bikes are like children. Small and low. It's best to get down to their level to capture there image." I started experimenting with that and it really helped. Any closeups I shoot I get down to around saddle, or handlebar, or top tube level. Ball park-ish.
7. Any saddle decisions yet?
8. I'm thinking motorcycle style grips would fit the bill on this one, with such serious MX bars. Plans yet?
9. Because the frame is such a calm and neutral color, all the silver and black really look sharp.
10. New, clean, silver chains are F'n sexy as hell.
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Old 01-12-18, 01:44 PM   #83
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Oops

Upon further analysis of the images, I have spotted an assembly faux pas that must be remedied prior to any further photography sessions.

The tire label (or the largest if there are two) must be centered over the valve stem. This aids in locating the culprits of mystery punctures. And, of course, aesthetically, provides a more symmetrically balanced package.

It's also absolutely critical for high speed stabilization.




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Old 01-12-18, 02:57 PM   #84
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A few things...
1. I rudely neglected to offer condolences for the storm damage. What a hassle, I'm sure.

Thanks, pal. I just came back inside from working more on it. Finally got the snow cleared and a section pulled back into position.

2. Those bars look brutal in the "behind" photo. Badass

I thought you'd like that rear shot.

3. I was going to ask this morning, Knobby or slick? I have my answer.

Those are Continental Traffic tires. They look knobby-ish, and that's good because I wanted to preserve the klunkeresque quality of this build. I also wanted to cruise with this and just ride it without the road noise and poor handling.

4. The crank and sprocket look awesome. Especially where the crank exits the sprocket. It has an "All business" tough beefy look.

Black Ops crank. 175mm. I had to look. To me perfectly honest I ordered it without even looking. Remember what I said about forgetting shtuf.

5. What length are the crank arms? Are my eyes wonky? They look extra long?

Hopefully, the extra crank length combined with the smaller sprocket will allow better wheelies?

6. I read a photo tip here many years ago, from a wise fellow (doesn't hang out anymore) who took killer photos. He said, (paraphrasing) "Bikes are like children. Small and low. It's best to get down to their level to capture there image." I started experimenting with that and it really helped. Any closeups I shoot I get down to around saddle, or handlebar, or top tube level. Ball park-ish.

I'll have to try that.

7. Any saddle decisions yet?

I have an Ergon and a Brooks B17 (black). Not sure yet, but leaning towards the Ergon. I may stick the Brooks on the Dunelt I'm building.


8. I'm thinking motorcycle style grips would fit the bill on this one, with such serious MX bars. Plans yet?

I have some plain black bmx-style grips, which should be fine. I also have some lock-on grips with some white trim which may coordinate well with the frame. It'll probably come down to whichever pair I find on the shelf first!

9. Because the frame is such a calm and neutral color, all the silver and black really look sharp.

I must say that I really had my doubts. It is rather a plain jane, but when you look at it a second time it like... hey now! I think a single red pinstripe here and there would really make it pop.

10. New, clean, silver chains are F'n sexy as hell.

I can't wait to get this thing done. I've got to get started on that CABE wbo project to which I've committed myself. I'll never get it finished fiddling about like this!
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Old 01-12-18, 03:04 PM   #85
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Oops

Upon further analysis of the images, I have spotted an assembly faux pas that must be remedied prior to any further photography sessions.
Gah!

Never even noticed it. See? Just one more thing I left out, and I know better too. I had someone from the plumbing and heating company drop in to get measurements for installing a Rinnai gas heater in my shop. I'm sick of carrying firewood! He knocked on the door when I was setting up to install tires. Good news is... I can fix it!

Hey did you notice the fully-threaded valve stems? Conty tubes, baybeee! Seriously love them.
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Old 01-12-18, 03:19 PM   #86
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Gah!




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Hey did you notice the fully-threaded valve stems? Conty tubes, baybeee! Seriously love them.
Nope, I missed that. I would love to replace all mine with those. I like the Schwalbes with the clear plastic cap. they look laboratory precise. It's hard to justify replacing tubes that hold air just fine with brand new expensive jobbies. But it may be time to pull the trigger.

That knurled finger-nut snugged against the rim makes inflating a breeze. No shoving the stem into the darn tire/rim cavity.
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Old 01-12-18, 03:35 PM   #87
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Nope, I missed that. I would love to replace all mine with those. I like the Schwalbes with the clear plastic cap. they look laboratory precise. It's hard to justify replacing tubes that hold air just fine with brand new expensive jobbies. But it may be time to pull the trigger.

That knurled finger-nut snugged against the rim makes inflating a breeze. No shoving the stem into the darn tire/rim cavity.
I need some fancy valve caps now.
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Old 01-12-18, 03:47 PM   #88
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I need some fancy valve caps now.

Whoa!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I was just looking at caps for the fun of it and discovered this. I have NO use for it, but it's an awesome invention. The guys that run training/racing/touring computers on their bikes have to fasten a magnet to the spokes that functions as an electronic pickup. It's unsightly and they sometimes come loose.

Voila! A valve cap with a super magnet built in. It looks trick too.



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Old 01-12-18, 08:07 PM   #89
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Oops

Upon further analysis of the images, I have spotted an assembly faux pas that must be remedied prior to any further photography sessions.

The tire label (or the largest if there are two) must be centered over the valve stem. This aids in locating the culprits of mystery punctures. And, of course, aesthetically, provides a more symmetrically balanced package.

It's also absolutely critical for high speed stabilization.




If you see dried slime, you'll know anyway.
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Old 01-12-18, 08:21 PM   #90
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If you see dried slime, you'll know anyway.
I have no idea what that means.

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Old 01-12-18, 08:22 PM   #91
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Do an experiment. Remove one testicle, push all the remaining testicles together, leaving a gap at one area, put the cone in place, and see if it will rock.
I can't stand wheels that squeal. Maybe a little lube?
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Old 01-12-18, 09:08 PM   #92
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I can't stand wheels that squeal. Maybe a little lube?

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Old 01-14-18, 11:12 PM   #93
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I have no idea what that means.
's how I keep E-vil flats away, and also liners.
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Old 01-14-18, 11:15 PM   #94
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Dudes, this is the best Bike Porn I've seen in ages here. Federal agents may knock. But just go get a decent seat post and go for it. What were you using for a seat?
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Old 01-15-18, 06:21 AM   #95
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What were you using for a seat?
Going to work this today. We had some rain that washed away the remaining snow, and I was able to salvage most of the bikes that got crushed under the weight of the barn roof. So I won't be needing to go outside today, and I can concentrate on this build. I'll try a couple seats and take pics.
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Old 01-16-18, 11:34 AM   #96
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I was hoping for a sunnier day, but here goes:







I've ordered some tuggnuts for it, thinking it can only be a good thing. I'll take some better pics when the sun actually stops playing games and decides to come out.
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Old 01-16-18, 01:50 PM   #97
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Got the serious crank forward thang goin on.
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Old 01-16-18, 02:12 PM   #98
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Got the serious crank forward thang goin on.
I made a straight one as well. I like the way it looks here, but I haven't ridden it yet, nor have I ever ridden one with the seat back like that. I sat on it, and it did feel comfy though.
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Old 01-19-18, 02:57 AM   #99
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It's a great looking bike. As a modern bike with a bit of frame culture, it's spot on.

That's not what i was hoping for. I'd hoped for a '41. I'd hoped for a restoration. The forks, the stem, chainring, rims, as near as dammit the fenders.. all the flaws and lbs... as close to as it was when it was new.

But it's not my bike. And it does look good.
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Old 01-19-18, 04:26 AM   #100
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It's a great looking bike. As a modern bike with a bit of frame culture, it's spot on.

That's not what i was hoping for. I'd hoped for a '41. I'd hoped for a restoration. The forks, the stem, chainring, rims, as near as dammit the fenders.. all the flaws and lbs... as close to as it was when it was new.

But it's not my bike. And it does look good.
Thanks, Mikey.
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