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Quality pedals

Old 03-02-18, 09:08 AM
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Quality pedals

Who makes high quality block pedals?

I tried a $5 Sunlite and Pyramid ...on both the bearings are very tight and not adjustable.

I want a classic style block pedal with smooth bearings.
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Old 03-02-18, 09:32 AM
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i don't know what style they're called, but i like the pedals off wcc or occ bikes. basicly the same, but different thread sizes.
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Old 03-02-18, 09:49 AM
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9/16" or 1/2" ?

If 9/16" I recommend MKS. High quality, not expensive, serviceable/adjustable.




If you want a rat trap, MKS Sylvan Touring.




Last edited by SquidPuppet; 03-02-18 at 09:53 AM.
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Old 03-02-18, 10:08 AM
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They look uncomfortable when wearing sandals or soft sole shoes.

Originally Posted by SquidPuppet View Post
If you want a rat trap, MKS Sylvan Touring.



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Old 03-02-18, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by mtb_addict View Post
They look uncomfortable when wearing sandals or soft sole shoes.
I use those pedals with plain old Costco sneakers. Good grip, no discomfort.
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Old 03-02-18, 10:51 AM
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What about 1/2" pedals? Most beach cruisers use that size. I too would appreciate any recommendations for a quality pedal.
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Old 03-02-18, 11:06 AM
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NB there is a pedal extender made, 1/2" thread to crank , and 9/16 pedals screw in.. 1 RH, 1LH thread.
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Old 03-02-18, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by CVB View Post
What about 1/2" pedals? Most beach cruisers use that size. I too would appreciate any recommendations for a quality pedal.

MKS does make 1/2" pedals. Harder to find, but they are available. Their rubber block pedal is the same as the 9/16" version. But the rat trap is steel as opposed to aluminum. However, it has a high quality chrome plating. Still serviceable and adjustable. They have loose balls as opposed to cartridge bearings, which I prefer.

You can find them here, along with some other quality 1/2" pedals.

Porkchop BMX 1/2" Pedals Old School BMX Bicycle Products


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Old 03-02-18, 09:27 PM
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I run Primo Super Tenderizers on my Schwinn and Animal Hamilton Pedals on my Huffy and my Specialized.

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Old 03-06-18, 09:41 AM
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2nd the MKS blocks. They're as high quality as that type of pedal ever got.
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Old 07-16-18, 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by wschruba View Post
2nd the MKS blocks. They're as high quality as that type of pedal ever got.
I like those pedals. Is there a recommended clear coat spray or other rust abatement that can be used on the frames of the pedals? I live and ride on the coast with lots of beach miles.

I picked up some expensive titanium parts 2 weeks ago but they’re in my hip instead of a bike. I also plucked an aluminum frame Caloi from a junk pile that I want to refurbish while convalescing.




Last edited by Nighttrain; 07-16-18 at 09:58 PM.
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Old 07-21-18, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Nighttrain View Post
I picked up some expensive titanium parts 2 weeks ago but theyíre in my hip instead of a bike.


Story please.
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Old 07-21-18, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by SquidPuppet View Post
Story please.
I had a total hip replacement on 3-July. It was long overdue according to surgeons that I visited. Iím 51 yrs old and wanted to keep all my OEM parts as long as possible.

The pain increased dramatically over the last year which caused me to give up basically everything. But thatís all gone now and after the bones get sticky with the new parts then
Iíll be back to all things fun on two wheels including MTB and off-road motorcycles.
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Old 07-23-18, 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Nighttrain View Post


I had a total hip replacement on 3-July. It was long overdue according to surgeons that I visited. Iím 51 yrs old and wanted to keep all my OEM parts as long as possible.

The pain increased dramatically over the last year which caused me to give up basically everything. But thatís all gone now and after the bones get sticky with the new parts then
Iíll be back to all things fun on two wheels including MTB and off-road motorcycles.
Yikes. Hope you get to 100%.
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Old 07-24-18, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by SquidPuppet View Post
Yikes. Hope you get to 100%.
Thanks. They can make a wind chime with all the metallic parts after I depart. Does anyone have any advice for removing a rusted bottom bracket on this Caloi? Itís an aluminum frame Iíd like to have painted and rebuild for beach riding.


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Old 07-25-18, 12:53 PM
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If you have a shop that has the Shimano splined tool, it's impact rated. A decent 3/8 air-impact tool will make short work of it, if it is stuck. Otherwise, use a tool fastened with a retaining screw, and a breaker bar (with the wheels attached, on the ground).
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Old 07-26-18, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by wschruba View Post
If you have a shop that has the Shimano splined tool, it's impact rated. A decent 3/8 air-impact tool will make short work of it, if it is stuck. Otherwise, use a tool fastened with a retaining screw, and a breaker bar (with the wheels attached, on the ground).
Thanks, my neighbor has a pneumatic impact driver and compressor I can use this weekend. A LBS declined to try to remove the BB and told me to junk it. But I have no history with that owner and the shop Iíve always bought from closed last week.

I canít visualize the breaker bar/retaining screw process but it sounds interesting. Thanks again for the advice, Wschruba.
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Old 07-26-18, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Nighttrain View Post


I canít visualize the breaker bar/retaining screw process but it sounds interesting. Thanks again for the advice, Wschruba.
The spined tools seem to want to slip. It's a common practice to "bolt" the tool directly to the spindle. Use a bolt and stack of washers and bolt the tool firmly into the BB splines. Then use a wrench with a cheater pipe to increase leverage. This is a random photo from the interwebz and the guy made due with a too long bolt, but you get the idea.

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Old 07-26-18, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by SquidPuppet View Post
The spined tools seem to want to slip. It's a common practice to "bolt" the tool directly to the spindle. Use a bolt and stack of washers and bolt the tool firmly into the BB splines. Then use a wrench with a cheater pipe to increase leverage. This is a random photo from the interwebz and the guy made due with a too long bolt, but you get the idea.

Got it, thanks for the picture.
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Old 08-01-18, 08:14 PM
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Once it breaks free LOOSEN THE BOLT!!!!!
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Old 08-02-18, 12:05 PM
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I usually have luck with a hammer when threads get stuck. Like for example...brace the other side of the BB shell against something real solid...like the concrete floor...put the spline tool on the BB lock ring...whack the spline tool real real good! and as many times as necessary.

believe this should work very bvery goodly. The shock from the hammer will lossen the lockring...and should not damage anything. It's just simple physics.
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