Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Beach Cruisers
Reload this Page >

Earlier Bendix Cog Removal

Notices
Beach Cruisers Do you love balloon tires and fenders? Do you love riding the simplicity of a single gear and coaster brakes or a single gear cluster? Do you love the classic curves in the tubing of a cruiser that takes you back to the 1950's and 1960's, stylistically? Here's your home! Welcome to the Beach Cruisers and Cruisers forum!

Earlier Bendix Cog Removal

Old 01-21-19, 08:43 AM
  #1  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Velo Mule's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 2,097

Bikes: Trek 800 x 2, Schwinn Heavy Duti, Schwinn Traveler, Schwinn Le Tour Luxe, Schwinn Continental, Cannondale M400 and Lambert, Schwinn Super Sport

Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 801 Post(s)
Liked 1,000 Times in 654 Posts
Earlier Bendix Cog Removal

I've got an earlier Bendix coaster brake hub that I took off a wheel this weekend. I tried to remove the sprocket while the wheel was still laced for some leverage

. I failed. I got the lock ring off. It is reverse threaded or left hand threaded. I would expect that the sprocket would be right hand threaded. I tried both directions to no avail. So, to dismantle the wheel, I disassembled the hub to get the sprocket out of the way.

How do you get the sprocket off?
Velo Mule is offline  
Old 01-21-19, 09:25 AM
  #2  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Reno nevada
Posts: 783

Bikes: a few that I can't recall

Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 339 Post(s)
Liked 287 Times in 142 Posts
I don't think thats a Bendix.
Reynolds 531 is offline  
Old 01-21-19, 09:50 AM
  #3  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Velo Mule's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 2,097

Bikes: Trek 800 x 2, Schwinn Heavy Duti, Schwinn Traveler, Schwinn Le Tour Luxe, Schwinn Continental, Cannondale M400 and Lambert, Schwinn Super Sport

Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 801 Post(s)
Liked 1,000 Times in 654 Posts
Thanks for the reply. It is an earlier, 1946 to 1961 "Original" Bendix. I have been able to find a parts list on-line that identifies the lock ring.

pgbikes

The lock ring is part number BB-5
The sprockets are BB-37 to BB-47 depending upon the number of teeth.

It identifies the sprockets as threaded. The question is which way and is there a good way to remove it now that there is no wheel attached.
Perhaps one way would have been to loosen the lock ring and then re-install the wheel on the bike and either push forward or back on the pedals.

Now that is not possible. Perhaps, I will have to build a wheel to get this sprocket removed. I hope not.
Velo Mule is offline  
Old 01-21-19, 10:45 AM
  #4  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Velo Mule's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 2,097

Bikes: Trek 800 x 2, Schwinn Heavy Duti, Schwinn Traveler, Schwinn Le Tour Luxe, Schwinn Continental, Cannondale M400 and Lambert, Schwinn Super Sport

Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 801 Post(s)
Liked 1,000 Times in 654 Posts
Here is the other side of the hub.

Velo Mule is offline  
Old 01-22-19, 09:18 AM
  #5  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 1,631
Mentioned: 32 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 499 Post(s)
Liked 63 Times in 48 Posts
That is an early threaded coaster sprocket. It is unique to American hubs (New Departure, Morrow/Bendix). If you don't have a replacement, don't remove it; they are very difficult to get off, and modern threaded sprockets do NOT fit. You can rebuild the wheel simply by removing the axle/driver assembly.

They are on super tight; It is a consequence of them being handmade, you see. The threads on both parts are quite tall, which leads to a boatload of friction when they are tightened. The standard way of dealing with it back then was one of two ways:

1) Replace the driver assembly with the new sprocket

2) Remove the sprocket with whatever you had at hand.

Unfortunately, as you've found out, that's not always easy...I've failed entirely using a 2 foot-long chain whip. In order to preserve as many rare parts as I could, I wound up splitting the sprocket by cutting a slot as far down as I could, then splitting it with a chisel. It still required all of the two feet of the chain whip's handle to remove it. I've heard stories of one person who had access to a large machinist's lathe, who chucked the driver in the jaws, and using the brake, was able to reliably remove the sprocket with a chain whip. Of course, at that point, it would almost be easier to simply cut it off with the lathe.

Since 1) was such a popular option, it is possible to find NOS drivers, if you keep your eyes open.
wschruba is offline  
Old 01-22-19, 10:06 AM
  #6  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Velo Mule's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 2,097

Bikes: Trek 800 x 2, Schwinn Heavy Duti, Schwinn Traveler, Schwinn Le Tour Luxe, Schwinn Continental, Cannondale M400 and Lambert, Schwinn Super Sport

Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 801 Post(s)
Liked 1,000 Times in 654 Posts
Thank you wschruba. Your experience is valuable. Which is why this forum is so good. I think I will take your advice and leave it on. When I use it, I will have to plan on a chainring that will work with the 20t rear sprocket. I did see threaded sprockets available on ebay. But if I can't get this off, why bother.

I am guessing that the sprocket is right hand, or normally threaded? I may try again later when I have a wheel built around it, but I will be planning on using it "as is" with the existing, stuck on sprocket.

I wonder if there is any advantage to the brass brake pads over the modern steel pads that we see on Bendix RB and newer and Shimano coaster brakes?
Velo Mule is offline  
Old 01-22-19, 11:25 AM
  #7  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 1,631
Mentioned: 32 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 499 Post(s)
Liked 63 Times in 48 Posts
Yes, they're a normal right-hand thread. I can only speculate on the friction material choice, but I will say that my Morrow hubs with bronze shoes (that are many orders larger than modern Shimano brake shoes) stop far better in terms of overall power AND modulation.
wschruba is offline  
Old 01-22-19, 12:47 PM
  #8  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Velo Mule's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 2,097

Bikes: Trek 800 x 2, Schwinn Heavy Duti, Schwinn Traveler, Schwinn Le Tour Luxe, Schwinn Continental, Cannondale M400 and Lambert, Schwinn Super Sport

Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 801 Post(s)
Liked 1,000 Times in 654 Posts
Originally Posted by wschruba
Yes, they're a normal right-hand thread. I can only speculate on the friction material choice, but I will say that my Morrow hubs with bronze shoes (that are many orders larger than modern Shimano brake shoes) stop far better in terms of overall power AND modulation.
I am thinking that softer brake shoes may provide better modulation and power. The trade off being that I would expect them to wear down faster. Interesting. Coaster brakes are normally thought of as being no, or little maintenance, so it would make scense that the modern coaster brakes have steel shoes and lack in modulation. Also, as you point out a larger diameter hub would help modulation and power as well.

All designs are a trade off. I believe that Bendix RB and newer hubs and Shimano opted for steel shoes for longer life. I know that SquidPuppent points out that the Shimano CB-110 is excellent and it is hard to refute that this is the best modern coaster brake. So, perhaps the old Morrow, that has an excellent reputation, has better modulation than a modern Shimano. And perhaps the Shimano has a longer service life.
Velo Mule is offline  
Old 01-22-19, 01:27 PM
  #9  
Banned
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NW,Oregon Coast
Posts: 43,598

Bikes: 8

Mentioned: 197 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7607 Post(s)
Liked 1,354 Times in 861 Posts
Question Put it in a Display case

Probably have to build the wheel then unscrew the cog .. Hence.. Hint : Loosen threaded on cogs before cutting hub out of old wheel.


Couldn't get it unscrewed before ? how many hands were involved ? how long a lever/handle on your chain whip?







....

Last edited by fietsbob; 01-22-19 at 01:31 PM.
fietsbob is offline  
Old 01-22-19, 04:27 PM
  #10  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Velo Mule's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 2,097

Bikes: Trek 800 x 2, Schwinn Heavy Duti, Schwinn Traveler, Schwinn Le Tour Luxe, Schwinn Continental, Cannondale M400 and Lambert, Schwinn Super Sport

Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 801 Post(s)
Liked 1,000 Times in 654 Posts
I did try to remove the sprocekt before disassembling the wheel. I tried a regular chainwhip with a, probably 12" handle. Then I tried my big mouth vise grips.

https://www.irwin.com/tools/locking-...locking-pliers

No movement.

Since I could remove the sprocket by removing the driver, that's what I ended up doing. I knew I can rely on my fellow forum members for some advice and experience.

BTW, I don't know what it is, but I don't like cutting spokes. It is tough to do with regular diagonal pliers. And I don't have anything bigger that.
Velo Mule is offline  
Old 01-22-19, 05:18 PM
  #11  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 1,631
Mentioned: 32 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 499 Post(s)
Liked 63 Times in 48 Posts
10" diagonal cutters work okay if you only cut a wheel's worth of spokes occasionally, but the right tool is a compound bolt cutter. They are useful tools to have, but not if you aren't using them constantly.
wschruba is offline  
Old 04-30-19, 05:42 PM
  #12  
Newbie
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Success in removing the cog

i had the same problem this weekend. I was able to mount the driver in a vise and use a hammer and punch to remove the cog. I was trying to switch from a inch pitch to a 1/2 inch. Took a while, but it’s done.
Daelledge is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
agnewton
Singlespeed & Fixed Gear
13
03-05-20 07:43 AM
Ayeeebroitsmatt
Bicycle Mechanics
8
02-10-15 10:18 PM
dpc1192
Singlespeed & Fixed Gear
20
11-17-14 02:19 PM
Shortsocks
Singlespeed & Fixed Gear
13
10-02-10 01:27 PM
Tremdo
Singlespeed & Fixed Gear
24
01-29-10 01:18 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.