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135 hub on 130 rear spacing

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135 hub on 130 rear spacing

Old 04-03-15, 10:40 PM
  #26  
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I have another problem. the lock nut uses a different diameter threading than the axle nut. so if I remove 5 mm from the axle nut, there's 5 mm of threads that just hangs out there, getting in the way. I will have to file off some of that thread in order to even make it fit into the drop out. Is there a precise way I can do this?
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Old 04-03-15, 11:10 PM
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Originally Posted by spectastic
I have another problem. the lock nut uses a different diameter threading than the axle nut. so if I remove 5 mm from the axle nut, there's 5 mm of threads that just hangs out there, getting in the way. I will have to file off some of that thread in order to even make it fit into the drop out. Is there a precise way I can do this?
You need to take 2.5mm off each side, not just 5mm from one - unless you re-dish it. Believe me, 5mm is more than you think. Your tire will prematurely wear disproportionate on the one side, especially if you're doing road riding.

If you take 2.5 off each side, the axle won't need filed or ground down. Unless you are riding a titanium or steel frame with very narrow dropouts, you shoud still have room where you won't need to file or grind the axle down on carbon and aluminun frames (thicker dropouts).


Originally Posted by Number400
I had the same issue on a build and in my case used thinner lock nuts to make it work. You could also machine down your lock nuts. It's not much material and will make life easier in the future with the wheel.
Did this on when used dedicated 135 wheel/hub setup for trainer on road bike. Just found locknuts/spacers that saved me about ~2-3mm on each side. I think I found a locknut on one side and washer on other that did the job. Helps having spares around to pull from.
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Old 04-03-15, 11:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Jamminatrix
You need to take 2.5mm off each side, not just 5mm from one - unless you re-dish it. Believe me, 5mm is more than you think. Your tire will prematurely wear disproportionate on the one side, especially if you're doing road riding.

If you take 2.5 off each side, the axle won't need filed or ground down. Unless you are riding a titanium or steel frame with very narrow dropouts, you shoud still have room where you won't need to file or grind the axle down on carbon and aluminun frames (thicker dropouts).



Did this on when used dedicated 135 wheel/hub setup for trainer on road bike. Just found locknuts/spacers that saved me about ~2-3mm on each side. I think I found a locknut on one side and washer on other that did the job. Helps having spares around to pull from.
I haven't even started building the wheel yet so this is a non issue

the issue right now is reducing the extra 4 mm of lock nut thread to be able to fit it into the drop out
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Old 04-04-15, 12:22 AM
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Originally Posted by spectastic
the issue right now is reducing the extra 4 mm of lock nut thread to be able to fit it into the drop out
I understand what you're saying now. The Alfine axle steps up from a typical M10 axle size for the locknut, and that doesn't fit in the dropout.



The correct way to do this would be [and not a favorable answer] disassemble the hub to the bare axle and have it turned down on a lathe.

The best option to avoid this may be just grinding 1-2mm off each lock nut (on each side), then just spreading the frame the rest of the way. If you take 1-1.5mm off the locknut on each side, that'd get you down to around 132/133 OLD. You'd only be spreading the frame a couple mills from here.
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Last edited by Jamminatrix; 04-04-15 at 12:26 AM.
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Old 04-04-15, 02:18 AM
  #30  
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I would much rather file down the thread than the lock nuts. Just doing the lock nuts is useless because the thread beneath it will still be in the way..

I don't have a lathe, and using one probably won't be cost effective. Any other ideas?

I guess I could always use an old fashion file. It will take a long ass time though.... a looooong ass time... well maybe not that long because it's just threads, but I've worked with steel before.

Last edited by spectastic; 04-04-15 at 02:22 AM.
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Old 04-04-15, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by spectastic
Will it compromise durability in light touring or trail riding?
It will put a slight bending force on the axle and could affect bearing and axle life.
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Old 04-04-15, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Lonesome rider
I will die sooner than my steel steed will rust to pieces.
My steel Heron bought in 2002 has 115,500 miles on it and is still in great shape. The frame weighs about 2 pounds more than a carbon one would, but the engine is carrying more than 15 excess pounds and is sadly worn out.

Most people don't have a clue as to how unimportant weight to the performance of most of us. A lighter bike is easier to put on a roof rack.
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