How to disassemble this hub?
 

I bought this wheels used, and am wanting to replace/repack the bearings, but I can't figure out how to disassemble it. Actually, I'm not even sure if it's cartridge or cup and cone, picture attached.

There's a flat bit on the black part (that might be the cone), and it's probably 16mm. But it's attached to the chrome bit, which might be a lock nut (?), but there's no flats on the it. The axle isn't threaded.

Any thoughts?

The hub is branded "Xlab", which seems to be a triathlon equipment supplier.

I think you might be able to put a wrench on the flats as a handle and pull straight out.

I would swear that there's a smidgen of thread showing on the axle, inboard of the protruding section. I would grab put cone wrenches on both sides and seeing if you could loosen them that way.

The presence of wrench flats, and the bit of thread showing just outside the "locknut" say "please turn to remove". Once that's off, the next step should reveal itself.

Nah, it looks like the bit of axle is part of the "cap" that's covering access to the bearings. I bet there's cartridge bearings in there. Just pull the cap off. If it were cup and cone the entire axle would be threaded to the ends.

But giving us the manufacturer/model of the hub would really help.

I stared at it some more, and you guys are right, it sure does look like threads inboard of the smooth bit - never noticed it before. I don't have the correct sized cone wrenches, but I'll try them down at a shop tomorrow.

Thanks for the great eyes!

Do you have cones, or sealed cartridge bearings?

Any chance an allen wrench would fit into the ends of the axle stubs?

The OP said it was "Xlab". Get your eyes checked. :geek:

yah, but I also said which model hub. do you wanna borrow my glasses?

That was my thought too. Several brand of hubs have axle end caps that thread off using a 5 mm or 6 mm allen key inserted into the end of the axle opening. Some, Campy for instance, require an allen key inserted into both ends of the axle. See if that will work.

may be pressed together .. may be so budget in price to assembly factory , as to cost a dollar or 2

(never heard of the brand, Doubt any Xlab banner is over a factory in China, another unknown one .. name printed on for the importer).

now you know what to look for in a hub in your next wheel , serviceably..


I call these Pyrrhic bargains.

[QUOTE=jjames2b;17690845]I stared at it some more, and you guys are right, it sure does look like threads inboard of the smooth bit - never noticed it before. I don't have the correct sized cone wrenches, but I'll try them down at a shop tomorrow.

Any update on the status of these hubs?

Unfortunately no, the community repair shop was closed over the Easter weekend. I'm hoping to swing by during the week. I'll try the allen key thing if those aren't actually threads.

Also, I can't see any model markings on the hub. I think they're just no-name hubs that this Xlab triathlon company stamped their name on... Would make sense, since they're laced to 650c rims. I only paid $20 for them off craigslist and they roll OK as is, but if I can repack them, it'll feel like a home run. Or at least a long single.

Thanks to everyone for the helpful suggestions, I'll update once I get them apart (or not).



[QUOTE=Relaxin;17696421]

One of my boy's hubs are like that. I'm trying to convice him to take it apart so we can show you how it's done..... :innocent:

Hello, quick update. Those were indeed threads! The chrome bit is attached to the black "cone" with the flats, and they came right off. Cartridge inside. Thanks for all the suggestions, and the great eyes! I never saw those threads. Cheers!

Good for you!

)My eyes are 50+ years old and they need progressive multifocal lenses to keep me from walking into walls.)

You don't need good eyes as much as the ability to read the signs. The big clue is the wrench flats. Adding flats is an extra manufacturing operation with added cost. Manufacturers are cheap, and pinch every penny and fraction of a penny. So if a part has wrench flats, it's because it needs to be turned.

Then the vestigial thread peaking out was the clincher.

So if you're wondering how to get into a Chinese Puzzle box of a bike part, look for visible clues and ask yourself what they mean.

Yeah. I bought a couple of these Coda hubs from Bikewagon, cheap. When I got them, the bearings felt like carp, so I decided to replace them. Getting them apart was an exercise in frustration: no flats, no apparent purchase to remove an end cap. The gold-colored pieces on the ends came off, but the end cap was still one piece. A friend with a bearing press wasn't able to get anything to move. Finally, I poked a skinny screwdriver down the center and felt a ridge inboard of the bearing. After supporting the hub shell and gently tapping on the ridge from the opposite side, the end cap popped off, revealing that the end cap pressed through the bearing into an axle-spacer sandwiched between the bearings. It's easy to see how some slightly lazy assembly work would ruin the bearings. I put in new bearings, carefully pressed everything together, and they're nice and smooth.

http://www.bikewagon.com/media/catal...an-a901a-1.jpg