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Chain Wear Tool
I would like to add this tool to my kit. I see Parks carries 2 different ones and in fact I used both at different times while riding cross country last year.
Those of you in the know, which do you prefer? Thanks! |
A steel rule.
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I've used both. The CC-2 is a little too fragile for my liking. You could bend it causing incorrect readings. The CC-3 go/no-go gauge is simple and sturdy.
However both only measure a very short distance on the chain. Unless you take multiple measurements on the chain, you could get a false positive or negative on the overall condition of the chain. That's why many people recommend using a 12" ruler. |
I have the CC-3 and it is light, simple, sturdy and of limited reliability, as are all chain checkers that span a short length. It's better than nothing but the final arbiter of chain wear is the good quality 12" ruler.
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I use a caliper How to Measure a Bicycle Chain
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Park CC2. Very quick and easy to use. I can check chains on six bikes in my garage in one minute - I can do it without taking the bikes off the hanging hooks, I can do it in sub-optimal light, I can do it without putting on my reading glasses, I can take multiple readings quickly at different sections of chain without moving the crank. The tool errs a little on the high side, so if you really want to make sure you don't change your chain before it's reached the maximum recommended elongation, you can switch to a ruler after you get past 1% on the chain checker.
Chain tool threads are a common source of bickering in here - people who disagree with me are wrong. |
Thanks RandomTroll!
I have the same caliper and I've been trying to figure out how to measure chain wear for ever! I never could see any elongation of used chains using a steel rule. All my new and used used chains measure out to 12 inches exactly. I could tell they were elongated by how much slack was evident as they draped over the chainrings. Thanks for the method! |
Gram scale.
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Originally Posted by dsbrantjr
(Post 17717518)
A steel rule.
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Originally Posted by woodcraft
(Post 17718246)
Gram scale.
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I have a chain wear tool, I just never use it. Checking chain wear isn't something you should have to do every week or so and it isn't something that needs to be done super accurately either. A 12" metal ruler suits me fine.
If I decided to start using my chain checker again, the first thing that I would do would be to calibrate it against a brand new, never used chain. |
Originally Posted by tanguy frame
(Post 17718244)
I could tell they were elongated by how much slack was evident as they draped over the chainrings.
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ols7SU8dz0...Chain_Webs.jpg |
Originally Posted by Retro Grouch
(Post 17718259)
If I decided to start using my chain checker again, the first thing that I would do would be to calibrate it against a brand new, never used chain.
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Originally Posted by DiabloScott
(Post 17718331)
Back in the olden days:50:, the thumb rule was to lift the chain off the front of the chainring and if you could see the tips of the teeth it was time to re-chain.
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ols7SU8dz0...Chain_Webs.jpg I did buy one of those digital chain calipers. It is a bit of a pain because it must be calibrated for every use, I think. But, technically it is accurate if one's calibration chain is good. |
CC-3. With two points of reference, gives me and customers more than enough information to make chain replacement decisions.
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I recently bought a CC-2 and I like that it gives a rough idea of the wear progression over time, rather than a strict "change it now" flag. My only difficulty is remembering whether the movable pin goes in the inner or outer links of the chain. Does it matter?
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Originally Posted by Chesterton
(Post 17721530)
I recently bought a CC-2 and I like that it gives a rough idea of the wear progression over time, rather than a strict "change it now" flag. My only difficulty is remembering whether the movable pin goes in the inner or outer links of the chain. Does it matter?
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