Cotter pin removal options...
 

Greetings all on this fine spring morning. I have removed cotter pins from two Peugeot U08's in the past with little difficulty using the penetrating oil and hammer method. I then encountered a crank with cotter pins that resisted both that method and the vise and socket method and were only removed after tediously drilling out the pins. I now will embark on wrenching on my two Raleigh Super Courses but I wanted to see if anyone recommends one of the following methods:
1. Buy a cotter pins press from Bikesmith which is a tad costly but seems like a smooth option. I am open to this option if it is worth the expenditure (ie it will save a lot of time and headaches.)
2. Use a large C-clamp to try to press out the pins.

Thanks.

I continue to enjoy 100% success with a hammer, by properly supporting the crank on a pipe. However if you want a press, none will generate anything close to the force of a vice with a donut of some kind so the pin has room to move. So if you're familiar with that way, the only thing you can gain is convenience.

Have to have a place for the head of the pin to go into .. people have modified big C clamps to work like the cotter press made for the purpose..

Hammering it out = buying a new cotter + filing the Taper , commonly. so get a spare when you start.

I apply PO a few times in the preceding day before attempted removal.
I haven't done a lot of cotters, but so far my C clamp and an old rear axle spacer have worked.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=445202

I've seen pics of people using a c-clamp with a socket that just fits over the pin on the fixed side of the clamp.

I made my own press but it required some welding. It is comprised of two half-inch threaded bar couplers and a short length of 3/8-inch steel plate. The couplers were aligned with a long bolt with a gap between them that is sufficient to span the cotter pin and a plate was welded to each of the couplers. A bolt with a 10-mm allen head on one side drives the pin through the press. I think this is similar in function to presses that are commercially sold.

This press works great both for removing the pin and inserting the pin back in the crank without damaging the threads and it works very well for both of these tasks. Note that you should not count on the cotter pin nut alone to apply the clamping force to insert the pin.

I've used the hammer method too but I've mashed some threads even when I leave the nut on before wailing on it. The press allows for a more controlled removal and installation so you don't mar up your cranks (or even the pin) when dealing with cottered cranks which are sometimes made from aluminum which is softer than a steel pipe.

The absolute best cotter removal tool I have ever used is a pneumatic chisel with a punch bit in it. The combination of the vibration and the impact force loosened every pin with no pin deformation that I have use it on. And this experience was back in the late 1970s when pinned cranks were far more common then today. I have used the Var Constricteur press (which sucks), the two versions of the Park press (the cast and the folded and welded ones, which work fairly well), the Var brass hammer, many different punches and hammers (punch held in vice grip, thank you). And the pneumatic tool beats them all by far. Andy.

Yes, a pneumatic hammer or chisel tool is far and away the easiest way to knock out a cotter. But how many people own one, or would have much use for one outside of a muffler shop?

So, they can but a tool and compressor, or use one of the not as easy but less costly methods available to them.

Hard to believe the vise and socket didn't work for you; I can't remember that ever letting me down.

Hammer and punch does work but, as has been pointed, out you will destroy the cotter pin in the process.

There's one at every auto shop in the country, as they're useful for all sorts of things on cars, particularly older, rusting cars. People used to come into the shop I used to run with all sorts of strange little mechanical problems that were solved by the application of an air tool. Some places, paying a mechanic shop rate to do that would be the fastest way of getting it done.

Greg,

Tried to PM you on this but I don't have enough posts.

If you like, I could send you my cotter pin press to use on your bikes.


I can just weld up another one for myself. I only have one bike with a cottered crank so it doesn't get used a lot. I enjoy making little tools for working on my bikes and this one turned out to work very well.

If you could still use it, just send me your email/contact info.

That's pretty cool... :beer:

Use a big fat vise and socket. It shall come out.

Or make one with a Harbor Freight chain tool. There is info on that in the C&V forum. Mine has worked well.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=445615
Here's a pic of my homemade cotter pin press. Not pretty but it is effective and robust.

Looks great!

"Pretty" is the last thing I expect in a tool... :beer:

Thanks for this tip. I have an air chisel *** but had never thought to use it for this purpose. How badly, if at all, does it screw up the old cotter?

To the OP - my preferred method is with a bench vise and socket after overnight does of penetrant. I may or may not apply heat depending on my patience level at the moment. Downside to the method is that it's burdensome. I have had some luck with hammers, C-clamps and other homemade presses, but I can say that they have lead to damage (bike or tool) and frustration.

An aside: There is no bike-related job that I enjoy more than filing cotters to fit.

If you have a block of brass to put between the punch face and the cotter pin you might be able to salvage the pin...

YMMV - mine cracked on the first use.

Thanks a lot everyone! I got a little caught up with other things and overlooked this thread that I started! My sincere apologies.

Thank you very much! I truly appreciate your kindness and I sent a message your way.

I tried using a big fat vise and socket on the last problem cotter pins and the darn vise snapped. I imagine the "Made in China" stamp had something to do with the quality of the vise. Next time I attempt that I will use a quality one.

Must have been a crappy vise. I never had problems with mine, even using a cheater pipe.

I have to say IrishBrewer is a life saver. He sent me his removal tool and it was so effective I had the entire crank removed from my Raleigh Super Course within five minutes. It was seamless. All I did was pick up a 9mm allen key as he suggested to me and with a little bit of muscle the pins popped out. I hope that I can return the favor one day with something because he showed generosity and gave advice to a total stranger just as a kind gesture. Thanks again man!

[QUOTE=IrishBrewer;17721816]I've seen pics of people using a c-clamp with a socket that just fits over the pin on the fixed side of the clamp.



what IB said :thumb: