Shinkers

Hello, this is always been something I wondered about.

Sometimes on a derailer or brake, I've had to reclamp the cable. Trying to get the tension set as close as possible without using the barrel adjusters (then using the barrel adjusters for fine tuning), sometimes there's some trial and error involved.

Does clamping a cable, and then loosening/moving/reclamping affect the integrity of the cable? I'm thinking of when you take ordinary wire and put a kink in it, that kink is significantly weaker. Not sure if this is the same type of thing though.

FWIW I've never had any problems, just wondered about it.

Thanks!

Bill Kapaun

It's bound to have an effect.

DBrown9383

I was trying to do a FD adjustment for the first time and unclamped/re-clamped the cable multiple times in the process. The result? frayed cable needing replacement.

fietsbob

Pre soldering the cable where it will be cut is helpful .

FBinNY 

Reclamping shouldn't cause any issues. I can't think of a scenario where you'd be slackening the wire, so the section that was crushed prior should be on the waste side of the pinch bolt whee it doesn't matter.

cale

Doesn't it seem completely unfair? The clamp bolt acts as a dull blade and slowly wears through the wire. Sometimes the reclamping is due to a bigger issue such as front derailleur location adjustments. You install a new front derailleur and need to adjust the height. You choose a new location and adjust the cable clamp. The cable, meanwhile, is getting flattened and "damaged".

What I've found helps is that you keep the ends long until you have competed your derailleur/brake adjustments. By using your hand, with cable wrapped or grasped firmly, to tension the cable while you make the adjustments, the tendency of the cable to unravel under pressure from the clamp bolt is minimized. If you grasp the end of a short cable with a pair of pliers, you'll be contributing to the deformation of the cable at the nearby bolt.

Also avoid using excessive force when clamping derailleur cable. If you're making a adjustment for shifting, you don't need to add clamping force appropriate for braking. The lighter force on the cable will lessen deformation of the cable.

Back off the cable bolt sufficiently, when pulling slack through. If you pull the cable while the bolt is compressing the cable, it will be like putting the cable through a mandrel. Instead of retaining their tight, round alignment, the strands of the cable will begin to straighten and weaken. So, don't be tempted to "hold the position" by forcing (yanking?) the cable through a tight clamping bolt.

Use quality cable cutters to make clean ends. Cutting cables and their housings is made so much simpler when you use cutters that are designed for the task. A pair of cable cutters will become a trusted tool you come back to time and again. You'll forget the "outrageous" price you paid for them long before they wear out.

Finally, cables are a consumable component. No different than brake shoes and bearings. Many new riders are surprised to find out that cables may require replacement. Not the least of the reasons being, they can no longer be properly adjusted because the end is worn out.

dr_lha

I've never had a cable break at the derailleur. Most end up fraying at the shifters.

dsbrantjr

You can also minimize the damage by going easy on the clamp bolt until you have the adjustment where you need it. Just tighten it enough to hold while you dial in the adjustment; the derailleurs only exert as much force on the wire as the return spring generates. Then give it its final tightening when you are sure it is where you want it. Even then you don't need to tighten the derailleur clamp as much as your brakes. Always check the integrity of your brake clamp by squeezing the lever as hard as you can 5 or 6 times to be certain that it is secure. I mark my cables with a Sharpie on each side of the clamp so that I can detect any movement.

DBrown9383

I like the Sharpie advice and will use it.. I clamp the brake cables hard and also the brake pad retainers. I worry I will strip the brake pad retainer hardware but don't want a brake pad to shift under hard braking.