Front Derailer Installation Issue
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Front Derailer Installation Issue
First time trying to install derailers and cables. Bike is a VO Campeur. I have a Sugino Triple (46/36/24) from Riv and went with the Claris triple FD (band type with shim) based on their recommendation. Shimano 9 speed bar end shifters if that matters. I am sure that I just don't know what I'm doing is the issue. I think that I have the inner/outer limit screws set correctly. Based on reading books and watching youtube videos, I think that I have the FD installed at least within reason when speaking of height and aligning it with the chainrings.
However, I keep having an issue. If I shift from the front big ring down to the middle ring, the chain keeps rubbing against the side of the up ramp that is part of the derailer. Sure, I can trim it back a bit to get the ramp backed off of rubbing the chain. Then, if I try and shift down to the small ring, the chain gets on top of this ramp. So, I'm trying to downshift, yet the chain is on top of the ramp which serves to lift the chain. I have the derailer about as low as you can get it with just a small amount of space between it and the top of the big ring.
If I take a different approach (when in the middle front ring) and if I twist the front derailer to help alleviate the issue (chain rubbing against the side of the ramp), then it would be out of alignment plus it will not shift to the smaller chainring at that point.
Any advice appreciated. What am I doing incorrectly? I would think the crank and FD are compatable based on Riv's recommendation. I'm kind of at an impass until I can get around this issue. Am I correct to think that when in the middle ring that the ramp of the derailer should not be on the same level as the chain? Thanks in advance. I'm sure it is just something that I am doing incorrectly.
However, I keep having an issue. If I shift from the front big ring down to the middle ring, the chain keeps rubbing against the side of the up ramp that is part of the derailer. Sure, I can trim it back a bit to get the ramp backed off of rubbing the chain. Then, if I try and shift down to the small ring, the chain gets on top of this ramp. So, I'm trying to downshift, yet the chain is on top of the ramp which serves to lift the chain. I have the derailer about as low as you can get it with just a small amount of space between it and the top of the big ring.
If I take a different approach (when in the middle front ring) and if I twist the front derailer to help alleviate the issue (chain rubbing against the side of the ramp), then it would be out of alignment plus it will not shift to the smaller chainring at that point.
Any advice appreciated. What am I doing incorrectly? I would think the crank and FD are compatable based on Riv's recommendation. I'm kind of at an impass until I can get around this issue. Am I correct to think that when in the middle ring that the ramp of the derailer should not be on the same level as the chain? Thanks in advance. I'm sure it is just something that I am doing incorrectly.
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First of all, let's clear away some brush. Many bikes have issues with the chain brushing up against the inner face of the larger ring when coming off the outside of the cassette. This is based on the straight line route from the outside to the inside, and is similar in principle to how a taller tree can shade a smaller one as the sun sets behind it. If that's the case, you might want to check the chainline, and possibly space the crank outboard a bit more, or you might accept it as a fact of life, since you don't ride those combinations anyway.
OTOH, if the FD cage is driving the chain against the other sprocket, than it's a question of trim (I assume you have a 3 position left shifter).
This gets trickier, so first check if the overall travel is correct. Back off the limits a bit so they're out of the way, shift to the middle rear, and smallest front. Note the position of the cage relative to the chain or sprocket, Now shift to the middle, then the outer, noting the position on each. The relative position should be the same, or very close. If it's trending, ie. moves to the inside on the middle and more to the inside on the outer, or the reverse, then the lever and FD aren't matched.
A travel mismatch could be the result of the cable being routed incorrectly (wrong side of the pinch bolt), or it could be mismatched lever and FD.
If there's no travel mismatch, then it's only a question of adjustment. Here's my surefire, bulletproof system for adjusting.
Shift to the middle ring. Now shift to the outer by pulling the wire away from the frame. Odds are you'll dump the chain over the outside. Ease off on the wire and it will probably climb back, if not help it. Let go of the wire and tighten the high limit in a few turns. Now repeat trying to shift by pulling on the wire, backing off the limits by degrees until the chain dumps. Then bring it in ONLY far enough that you cannot dump the chain.
The outer limit is now set. Now shift to the outer ring via the lever and the smallest rear. Adjust trim so the outer cage just barely clears the outside of the chain. Test shift a few times to see if it crisply shifts from the middle to outer and back, especially when in the middle of the cassette. These are your most frequent shifts, so this is where you want to optimize shifting by trimming accurately.
Now, shift to low, while on the inner half of the cassette. If the chain dumps take weight off the RD by pulling the wire and bring the limit in. Bring it in until you can't shift to low, then out by degrees until you can crisply. Go to the low in the rear and check that the chain clears the cage's inner plate (barely), and adjust trim accordingly. Then repeat middle to low shifts back and forth to confirm that it shifts crisply and doesn't dump the chain.
In some cases, you might have to slightly adjust cable trim for good low to middle shifting, but remember that it had been optimized for middle to high and back, so this will be a compromise, and may call on judgement.
Now double check everything, complete any other adjustments and go out and ride in confidence.
OTOH, if the FD cage is driving the chain against the other sprocket, than it's a question of trim (I assume you have a 3 position left shifter).
This gets trickier, so first check if the overall travel is correct. Back off the limits a bit so they're out of the way, shift to the middle rear, and smallest front. Note the position of the cage relative to the chain or sprocket, Now shift to the middle, then the outer, noting the position on each. The relative position should be the same, or very close. If it's trending, ie. moves to the inside on the middle and more to the inside on the outer, or the reverse, then the lever and FD aren't matched.
A travel mismatch could be the result of the cable being routed incorrectly (wrong side of the pinch bolt), or it could be mismatched lever and FD.
If there's no travel mismatch, then it's only a question of adjustment. Here's my surefire, bulletproof system for adjusting.
Shift to the middle ring. Now shift to the outer by pulling the wire away from the frame. Odds are you'll dump the chain over the outside. Ease off on the wire and it will probably climb back, if not help it. Let go of the wire and tighten the high limit in a few turns. Now repeat trying to shift by pulling on the wire, backing off the limits by degrees until the chain dumps. Then bring it in ONLY far enough that you cannot dump the chain.
The outer limit is now set. Now shift to the outer ring via the lever and the smallest rear. Adjust trim so the outer cage just barely clears the outside of the chain. Test shift a few times to see if it crisply shifts from the middle to outer and back, especially when in the middle of the cassette. These are your most frequent shifts, so this is where you want to optimize shifting by trimming accurately.
Now, shift to low, while on the inner half of the cassette. If the chain dumps take weight off the RD by pulling the wire and bring the limit in. Bring it in until you can't shift to low, then out by degrees until you can crisply. Go to the low in the rear and check that the chain clears the cage's inner plate (barely), and adjust trim accordingly. Then repeat middle to low shifts back and forth to confirm that it shifts crisply and doesn't dump the chain.
In some cases, you might have to slightly adjust cable trim for good low to middle shifting, but remember that it had been optimized for middle to high and back, so this will be a compromise, and may call on judgement.
Now double check everything, complete any other adjustments and go out and ride in confidence.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#3
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I appreciate the help. However, I am just about at the point of just giving up and taking it to a bike shop. No matter what I do, I can get it to work ok shifting in one direction, but never in both directions. I am a novice at doing this type of thing and it is just above my head at the moment. I think that I have the inner and outer limit set okay. I am just at a loss. Any change that I make solves one issue, but creates another. It seems to look so simple as to what needs doing. I am defeated. I'll set my bruised ego aside and head to the bike shop. Thanks again for the help.
#4
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Which model Claris do you have?
The only triple specific ones I see in the book are designed for 50-39-30T rings, with a max difference of 20T.
Possibly you have to raise the FDER the equivalent of a 2T larger ring to clear?
I've got a 22-32-36 set up and you can see how high the FDER (designed for 22-32-42/44) has to be to clear the middle ring.
The only triple specific ones I see in the book are designed for 50-39-30T rings, with a max difference of 20T.
Possibly you have to raise the FDER the equivalent of a 2T larger ring to clear?
I've got a 22-32-36 set up and you can see how high the FDER (designed for 22-32-42/44) has to be to clear the middle ring.
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Which model Claris do you have?
The only triple specific ones I see in the book are designed for 50-39-30T rings, with a max difference of 20T.
Possibly you have to raise the FDER the equivalent of a 2T larger ring to clear?
I've got a 22-32-36 set up and you can see how high the FDER (designed for 22-32-42/44) has to be to clear the middle ring.
The only triple specific ones I see in the book are designed for 50-39-30T rings, with a max difference of 20T.
Possibly you have to raise the FDER the equivalent of a 2T larger ring to clear?
I've got a 22-32-36 set up and you can see how high the FDER (designed for 22-32-42/44) has to be to clear the middle ring.
#6
Really Old Senior Member
2403 is for the triple.
I can't answer your indentation question.
I can't answer your indentation question.
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