When do you replace rims?
#1
Just ride.
Thread Starter
When do you replace rims?
I was looking at my rims (Mavic Open Pros) after yesterdays ride and was wondering... I don't want to get caught 30 miles south of East BF with a hosed rim.
What should I look for when checking for impending failure... there's nothing obvious, but that doesn't always mean much. Are there any rules of thumb re/life expectancy?
What should I look for when checking for impending failure... there's nothing obvious, but that doesn't always mean much. Are there any rules of thumb re/life expectancy?
#2
feros ferio
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
Posts: 21,796
Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;
Mentioned: 44 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1392 Post(s)
Liked 1,324 Times
in
836 Posts
Very relevlant question! I wish I had a thorough answer.
Pay close attention to the seam/weld and to brake-induced wear on the sidewalls. It also probably makes sense to replace a rim after 20K mi/30K km or so, unless you are a very lightweight, cautious rider.
Pay close attention to the seam/weld and to brake-induced wear on the sidewalls. It also probably makes sense to replace a rim after 20K mi/30K km or so, unless you are a very lightweight, cautious rider.
__________________
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#3
Wood Licker
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Whistler,BC
Posts: 16,966
Bikes: Trek Fuel EX 8 27.5 +, 2002 Transition Dirtbag, Kona Roast 2002
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 23 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
An unatural warp (the feeling of vertical warp not the usual look down and see)
No matter how often you rebuild they warp quickly (sign of cheap rims or worn rims)
Check the eyelettes for cracks or stress marks
Check the welds (if there are any) on the rim and make sure there is nothing visually wrong.
Take the tube out and inspect the inside while shining a light at it. This will show off any possible hairline cuts.
No matter how often you rebuild they warp quickly (sign of cheap rims or worn rims)
Check the eyelettes for cracks or stress marks
Check the welds (if there are any) on the rim and make sure there is nothing visually wrong.
Take the tube out and inspect the inside while shining a light at it. This will show off any possible hairline cuts.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 132
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
You will notice now that current 517's, bontragers & other brands are putting wear detents on the braking surfaces so you know when the sidewalls are too thin.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: England
Posts: 12,948
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 19 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times
in
7 Posts
How can weld failure lead to rim failure? The rim is under compression, and is conventionally held by just a simple metal peg ?
The worst kind of failure is probably due to worn braking surface.
You can proof test by overinflating the tube using a track pump. Wear safety goggles and gloves in case of an explosive failure, and dont forget to release the pressure after the test. Chris Juden of the CTC recomended 50% above the max pressure for proof testing.
Modern rim-wear indicators, introduced by the Belgium company, Alesa, are a very good idea.
The worst kind of failure is probably due to worn braking surface.
You can proof test by overinflating the tube using a track pump. Wear safety goggles and gloves in case of an explosive failure, and dont forget to release the pressure after the test. Chris Juden of the CTC recomended 50% above the max pressure for proof testing.
Modern rim-wear indicators, introduced by the Belgium company, Alesa, are a very good idea.
#6
Bring It!
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 611
Bikes: Torelli - Trek 520 - GT - and some old Schwinn Thing
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Based on what I have read on this thread, I am curious how the following would be interpreted by you guys as far as wear goes.
Something I noticed on my rims after I rode in the rain was a pattern of wear. I am assuming the paint was rubbed off a bit (lots of hairline scractches (not cracks)) from the gunk that got between the pads and rims.
Now the odd part is, the wear of the paint gives a dashed appearance. By this I mean the space inbetween the spokes has less wear than the part of the rim in line with the spokes. I can't feel any warping by hand, but you can definately see that the warp exists based on the paint wear.
Is this something normal, or should I be concerned about it? Otherwise the wheels stay very true and give me absolutely no problems.
Something I noticed on my rims after I rode in the rain was a pattern of wear. I am assuming the paint was rubbed off a bit (lots of hairline scractches (not cracks)) from the gunk that got between the pads and rims.
Now the odd part is, the wear of the paint gives a dashed appearance. By this I mean the space inbetween the spokes has less wear than the part of the rim in line with the spokes. I can't feel any warping by hand, but you can definately see that the warp exists based on the paint wear.
Is this something normal, or should I be concerned about it? Otherwise the wheels stay very true and give me absolutely no problems.
__________________
Sailing and Cycling make the world go 'round. Quietly Too!
Sailing and Cycling make the world go 'round. Quietly Too!
#7
Just ride.
Thread Starter
Thanks, guys. I'm neither lightweight or cautious. And foolish doesn't count. Sounds like I'm getting into the grey area, mileage wise.
But then, as Pokey says, 'everyone wants new wheels.'
But then, as Pokey says, 'everyone wants new wheels.'
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 376
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally posted by roadbuzz
What should I look for when checking for impending failure... there's nothing obvious, but that doesn't always mean much. Are there any rules of thumb re/life expectancy?
What should I look for when checking for impending failure... there's nothing obvious, but that doesn't always mean much. Are there any rules of thumb re/life expectancy?
From what I have seen, with modern rims, it's more likely that they will fail at the eyelets long before the brake track.
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 376
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally posted by Sailguy
Now the odd part is, the wear of the paint gives a dashed appearance. By this I mean the space inbetween the spokes has less wear than the part of the rim in line with the spokes. I can't feel any warping by hand, but you can definately see that the warp exists based on the paint wear.
Is this something normal, or should I be concerned about it? Otherwise the wheels stay very true and give me absolutely no problems.
Now the odd part is, the wear of the paint gives a dashed appearance. By this I mean the space inbetween the spokes has less wear than the part of the rim in line with the spokes. I can't feel any warping by hand, but you can definately see that the warp exists based on the paint wear.
Is this something normal, or should I be concerned about it? Otherwise the wheels stay very true and give me absolutely no problems.
How many spokes do these wheels have?
#10
Bring It!
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 611
Bikes: Torelli - Trek 520 - GT - and some old Schwinn Thing
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally posted by bikerider
If the rims are quite worn I would be somewhat concerned. The thickness of machined rims varies and you could be down to the wire.
How many spokes do these wheels have?
If the rims are quite worn I would be somewhat concerned. The thickness of machined rims varies and you could be down to the wire.
How many spokes do these wheels have?
I will try to get a photo up this eve.
__________________
Sailing and Cycling make the world go 'round. Quietly Too!
Sailing and Cycling make the world go 'round. Quietly Too!
#11
I drink your MILKSHAKE
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: St. Petersburg, FL
Posts: 15,061
Bikes: 2003 Specialized Rockhopper FSR Comp, 1999 Specialized Hardrock Comp FS, 1971 Schwinn Varsity
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
3 Posts
Originally posted by roadbuzz
What should I look for when checking for impending failure... there's nothing obvious, but that doesn't always mean much. Are there any rules of thumb re/life expectancy?
What should I look for when checking for impending failure... there's nothing obvious, but that doesn't always mean much. Are there any rules of thumb re/life expectancy?
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 604
Bikes: LeMond Zurich
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I had a Mavic Open Pro rim with a hairline crack radiating out from a spoke hole. It was almost invisible with the bike on a stand, but when riding I kept getting a "creak, creak" sound like a rocking chair and periodic broken spokes. Eventually it became pronounced enough that even I was finally able to spot it.
#13
Just ride.
Thread Starter
Originally posted by Sailguy
Before the rain, there were no marks on the rims at all.
Before the rain, there were no marks on the rims at all.
Last edited by roadbuzz; 12-10-02 at 07:50 PM.
#14
Just ride.
Thread Starter
Originally posted by Raiyn
where the spoke meets the rim is raised like an infected hair that's most likely not a good thing.
where the spoke meets the rim is raised like an infected hair that's most likely not a good thing.
#15
Banned
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: upstate New York
Posts: 1,688
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
The wheels have 38 spokes.
__________________
Je vais à vélo, donc je suis!
Je vais à vélo, donc je suis!
#17
Senior Member (Retired)
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Great North Woods
Posts: 2,671
Bikes: Vittorio, Centaur triple; Casati Laser Piu, Chorus Triple.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Thirty eight? Not thirty six? I don't think I have ever seen one of those gomers. Yes - please post a picture. And the brand name?
Cheers...Gary
Cheers...Gary
#18
Bring It!
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 611
Bikes: Torelli - Trek 520 - GT - and some old Schwinn Thing
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Sorry guys, 36.. you can flame me now. I am never good w/ that kind of data in my head. Here's some pics of the wear.
Notice the increased wear at the spokes. Sorry for the glare, the flash did a number on the picture.. I toned it down in photoshop the best I could.
Notice the increased wear at the spokes. Sorry for the glare, the flash did a number on the picture.. I toned it down in photoshop the best I could.
__________________
Sailing and Cycling make the world go 'round. Quietly Too!
Sailing and Cycling make the world go 'round. Quietly Too!
Last edited by Sailguy; 12-11-02 at 01:46 AM.
#19
Bring It!
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 611
Bikes: Torelli - Trek 520 - GT - and some old Schwinn Thing
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
2nd Pic
__________________
Sailing and Cycling make the world go 'round. Quietly Too!
Sailing and Cycling make the world go 'round. Quietly Too!
#21
Bring It!
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 611
Bikes: Torelli - Trek 520 - GT - and some old Schwinn Thing
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I feel better now
__________________
Sailing and Cycling make the world go 'round. Quietly Too!
Sailing and Cycling make the world go 'round. Quietly Too!
#22
cycle-powered
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Munich Germany (formerly Portland OR, Texas)
Posts: 1,848
Bikes: '02 Specialized FSR, '03 RM Slayer, '99 Raleigh R700, '97 Norco hartail, '89 Stumpjumper
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
From what I have seen, with modern rims, it's more likely that they will fail at the eyelets long before the brake track.
i thought i had a little more life on it, but a friend of mine kept telling me it was about to go and VERY dangerous, as he had seen 2 rims bust through while the rider was going fast downhill. anyway, it was very worn, but on examination it was very concave, but still had some thickness left (no number, but at least say 1/3 the original width). i do like the idea of wear bars though.
of course, my riding is probably not average. i ride almost all mountains (with this bike) and logged about 4000km and 61,000 meters of vertical which means also 61,000 meters of descent! on mostly single-track so lots of hard braking involved.
i think in normal riding without extreme braking it is generally more common to wear out at the spokes - crack radiating out from the spoke holes. that's why i was so surprised that my rim was toast after only 6 months! b/c rims usually last a lot longer.
#24
Senior Member (Retired)
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Great North Woods
Posts: 2,671
Bikes: Vittorio, Centaur triple; Casati Laser Piu, Chorus Triple.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
It looks to me as though you are talking about wear of the braking surface at the spoke positions being different than between the spokes.
If that is the point, wouldn't that mean that the rims were bulged out at the spoke positions (or the other way around, dependent upon which area shows more wear)? Do the wear patterns repeat on both sides in the same places?
In either case, possibly dangerous eventually, I would suspect.
Cheers...Gary
P.S. Why flame? I need another person around to count past twenty. 8')
If that is the point, wouldn't that mean that the rims were bulged out at the spoke positions (or the other way around, dependent upon which area shows more wear)? Do the wear patterns repeat on both sides in the same places?
In either case, possibly dangerous eventually, I would suspect.
Cheers...Gary
P.S. Why flame? I need another person around to count past twenty. 8')
#25
cycle-powered
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Munich Germany (formerly Portland OR, Texas)
Posts: 1,848
Bikes: '02 Specialized FSR, '03 RM Slayer, '99 Raleigh R700, '97 Norco hartail, '89 Stumpjumper
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
oeiginally posted by Raiyn
Perhaps discs would be a good move
Perhaps discs would be a good move
but, i gave disc another thought after the rim thing - b/c with discs you don't brake on the rim so it would last longer. but here's my thinking: so i were out maybe an extra rim a year (i.e. use up 1 front rim per year instead of every other year). cost is about $40 every 2 years or $20 a year. i think the cost of discs plus the extra maintenance would be more than $20/yr considering how much i ride. i mean disc pads costs more than v-brake pads and riding so much with so much downhill has got to use up disc pads too. then there are the maintenance/breakage b/c discs are just inherently more complicated than super-simple v-brakes: one of my friend's hydraulic line broke, another got air bubbles and had to replace the unit, another warped a disc in a crash, and another had a weird thing where the disc pad rubbed while coasting... i've had absolutely ZERO problems with my v-brakes in like 4 years and maybe 40,000km! and tons of crashes - broken nose, 2 chipped teeth, torn lip, broken bar-end, bent shifters, and my v-brakes never got damaged or worn!
maybe in a few years when discs are more refined i might think about it.
actually, i did find another advantage to discs the other day but it doesn't happen much: when riding in snow the v-brake stopping power was affected and snow clogged up in the v-brake unit (of course, it clogged up in the drive-train too which discs wouldn't solve... i'm am more likely to try the Rolph hub unit instead of discs) the Rolph looks really neat although it's pricey and a little more weight.