Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

How to determine cone position on rear axle

Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

How to determine cone position on rear axle

Old 05-13-15, 07:39 PM
  #1  
sixdoubleo
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 18
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
How to determine cone position on rear axle

In servicing the rear hub on my Specialized Rockhopper, I removed both cones from the axle when I disassembled the hub and thus have lost the stock positioning of these on the axle. I know this was stupid, but I guess I just assumed that the wheel would be assembled with an equal amount of axle sticking out each side. I now realize I should have left the drive side cone and locknut intact. I do know the proper order of all my spacers...I just dont know how far the cone was threaded onto the axle.

Having said that, what is the best way to figure out the proper spacing of the cone on the axle? Given that it's a disc brake, should I work from the disc side and use trial and error to best align the disc in the caliper? Or is there a better way?

Thank you for any suggestions!
sixdoubleo is offline  
Old 05-13-15, 07:42 PM
  #2  
HillRider 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 31,446

Bikes: '''96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '12 Surly Pacer, All are 3x8,9 or 10. It is hilly around here!

Mentioned: 32 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1123 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 12 Times in 12 Posts
If this is a normal style quick release hub, the standard axle protrusion is 5.5 mm per side.
HillRider is offline  
Old 05-13-15, 07:45 PM
  #3  
FBinNY 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 36,049

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 121 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4338 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
The overall axle is usually 11mm longer than the locknut width, ie. 146mm axle, for 135mm hub. So measure your axle, subtract 10-11mm or so to come to a standard hub width, 126, 130, 135, etc. Divide the difference by 2 and that's the amount of axle that will be showing at each end.

Or skip the math, assemble the axle and cones into the hub, not fully tightening wither side. Rough adjust the cones to remove play, then adjust the axle to center. Tighten one side (usually the right) fine adjust the cones, then tighten the left.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Old 05-13-15, 07:46 PM
  #4  
sixdoubleo
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 18
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thank you. As far as I know it is. Shimano Deore 9-speed cassette style free-hub with quick release. For some reason I assumed there was some degree of offset because several How-To's I watched stressed that you should leave the drive side intact...I assumed this was to preserve the position. (I watched these after pulling it apart).

I will assemble it with 5.5mm and see how it goes.
sixdoubleo is offline  
Old 05-13-15, 07:51 PM
  #5  
sixdoubleo
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 18
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by FBinNY View Post
The overall axle is usually 11mm longer than the locknut width, ie. 146mm axle, for 135mm hub. So measure your axle, subtract 10-11mm or so to come to a standard hub width, 126, 130, 135, etc. Divide the difference by 2 and that's the amount of axle that will be showing at each end.

Or skip the math, assemble the axle and cones into the hub, not fully tightening wither side. Rough adjust the cones to remove play, then adjust the axle to center. Tighten one side (usually the right) fine adjust the cones, then tighten the left.
Thank you for this thorough explanation. That's very helpful!
sixdoubleo is offline  
Old 05-14-15, 01:08 AM
  #6  
dabac
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,947
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 812 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Q
Originally Posted by sixdoubleo View Post
I will assemble it with 5.5mm and see how it goes.
Depending on the degree of tinkering that has been going on, some "drift" might have occurred.
Final call will be determined by what the cones need to achieve correct bearing adjustment.
When I start from a bare axle, I set one end at 5.5, reassemble the rest and see if it's good or needs touching up.
dabac is offline  
Old 05-16-15, 12:29 PM
  #7  
sixdoubleo
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 18
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks for this advice. That makes sense. Hopefully I'll get that thing put back together today.
sixdoubleo is offline  
Old 05-16-15, 01:13 PM
  #8  
Bill Kapaun
Senior Member
 
Bill Kapaun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Mid Willamette Valley, Orygun
Posts: 10,741

Bikes: 86 RockHopper,2008 Specialized Globe. Both upgraded to 9 speeds.

Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 644 Post(s)
Liked 14 Times in 13 Posts
Originally Posted by sixdoubleo View Post
Thank you. As far as I know it is. Shimano Deore 9-speed cassette style free-hub with quick release. For some reason I assumed there was some degree of offset because several How-To's I watched stressed that you should leave the drive side intact...I assumed this was to preserve the position. (I watched these after pulling it apart).

I will assemble it with 5.5mm and see how it goes.
The NDS is far easier to get to.
You leave the DS intact and simply pull the axle out from that end.
No need to undo the DS end unless you have a bad cone.
Bill Kapaun is online now  
Old 05-16-15, 01:26 PM
  #9  
speedy25
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: NE oHIo
Posts: 918

Bikes: Specialized, Trek, Diamondback, Schwinn, Peugeot

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 109 Post(s)
Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Originally Posted by sixdoubleo View Post
Given that it's a disc brake, should I work from the disc side and use trial and error to best align the disc in the caliper? Or is there a better way?
You got the specific numbers but I often have to adjust the cones so they DO put the disk in the middle of the caliper. Some calipers have some tolerance for adjustment too. Get it close, loosen caliper bolts, squeeze the handle and re-tighten the bolts.

Your job should be done now.

-SP
speedy25 is offline  
Old 05-16-15, 02:04 PM
  #10  
Eric S. 
Senior Member
 
Eric S.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 801

Bikes: '04 LeMond Buenos Aires, '82 Bianchi Nuova Racing, De Rosa SLX, Bridgestone MB-1, Guerciotti TSX, Torpado Aelle, LeMond Tourmalet 853, Bridgestone Radac

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 53 Post(s)
Liked 5 Times in 4 Posts
When I've fully disassembled a hub & axle, I put the hardware back onto the bare axle and put it into the dropouts. Adjust the locknuts until everything is even, then lock the drive side cone & locknut. You can't get to those once the axle is back in the hub/freehub anyway.
Eric S. is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright © 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.