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How to determine cone position on rear axle

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How to determine cone position on rear axle

Old 05-13-15, 07:39 PM
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How to determine cone position on rear axle

In servicing the rear hub on my Specialized Rockhopper, I removed both cones from the axle when I disassembled the hub and thus have lost the stock positioning of these on the axle. I know this was stupid, but I guess I just assumed that the wheel would be assembled with an equal amount of axle sticking out each side. I now realize I should have left the drive side cone and locknut intact. I do know the proper order of all my spacers...I just dont know how far the cone was threaded onto the axle.

Having said that, what is the best way to figure out the proper spacing of the cone on the axle? Given that it's a disc brake, should I work from the disc side and use trial and error to best align the disc in the caliper? Or is there a better way?

Thank you for any suggestions!
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Old 05-13-15, 07:42 PM
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If this is a normal style quick release hub, the standard axle protrusion is 5.5 mm per side.
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Old 05-13-15, 07:45 PM
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The overall axle is usually 11mm longer than the locknut width, ie. 146mm axle, for 135mm hub. So measure your axle, subtract 10-11mm or so to come to a standard hub width, 126, 130, 135, etc. Divide the difference by 2 and that's the amount of axle that will be showing at each end.

Or skip the math, assemble the axle and cones into the hub, not fully tightening wither side. Rough adjust the cones to remove play, then adjust the axle to center. Tighten one side (usually the right) fine adjust the cones, then tighten the left.
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Old 05-13-15, 07:46 PM
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Thank you. As far as I know it is. Shimano Deore 9-speed cassette style free-hub with quick release. For some reason I assumed there was some degree of offset because several How-To's I watched stressed that you should leave the drive side intact...I assumed this was to preserve the position. (I watched these after pulling it apart).

I will assemble it with 5.5mm and see how it goes.
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Old 05-13-15, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by FBinNY
The overall axle is usually 11mm longer than the locknut width, ie. 146mm axle, for 135mm hub. So measure your axle, subtract 10-11mm or so to come to a standard hub width, 126, 130, 135, etc. Divide the difference by 2 and that's the amount of axle that will be showing at each end.

Or skip the math, assemble the axle and cones into the hub, not fully tightening wither side. Rough adjust the cones to remove play, then adjust the axle to center. Tighten one side (usually the right) fine adjust the cones, then tighten the left.
Thank you for this thorough explanation. That's very helpful!
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Old 05-14-15, 01:08 AM
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Q
Originally Posted by sixdoubleo
I will assemble it with 5.5mm and see how it goes.
Depending on the degree of tinkering that has been going on, some "drift" might have occurred.
Final call will be determined by what the cones need to achieve correct bearing adjustment.
When I start from a bare axle, I set one end at 5.5, reassemble the rest and see if it's good or needs touching up.
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Old 05-16-15, 12:29 PM
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Thanks for this advice. That makes sense. Hopefully I'll get that thing put back together today.
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Old 05-16-15, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by sixdoubleo
Thank you. As far as I know it is. Shimano Deore 9-speed cassette style free-hub with quick release. For some reason I assumed there was some degree of offset because several How-To's I watched stressed that you should leave the drive side intact...I assumed this was to preserve the position. (I watched these after pulling it apart).

I will assemble it with 5.5mm and see how it goes.
The NDS is far easier to get to.
You leave the DS intact and simply pull the axle out from that end.
No need to undo the DS end unless you have a bad cone.
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Old 05-16-15, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by sixdoubleo
Given that it's a disc brake, should I work from the disc side and use trial and error to best align the disc in the caliper? Or is there a better way?
You got the specific numbers but I often have to adjust the cones so they DO put the disk in the middle of the caliper. Some calipers have some tolerance for adjustment too. Get it close, loosen caliper bolts, squeeze the handle and re-tighten the bolts.

Your job should be done now.

-SP
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Old 05-16-15, 02:04 PM
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When I've fully disassembled a hub & axle, I put the hardware back onto the bare axle and put it into the dropouts. Adjust the locknuts until everything is even, then lock the drive side cone & locknut. You can't get to those once the axle is back in the hub/freehub anyway.
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