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Brazed-on (?) seat tube clamp skewed. Is is fixable?

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Brazed-on (?) seat tube clamp skewed. Is is fixable?

Old 05-15-15, 07:59 PM
  #1  
CatSchrodinger
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Brazed-on (?) seat tube clamp skewed. Is is fixable?

Hi,

I bought a Zycle Fix City Bike (steel frame) back in December, and due to circumstances beyond my control, I just rode it today for the first time. The seat post wouldn't stay put, no matter how I tried to tighten it. I discovered that the clamp, which appears to be tacked at the front --either welded or brazed-- is on crooked so that on one side of the tube, the ear isn't compressing the tube, but is riding up over the lip of the tube and contacting the post instead. I stupidly thought I could fix it by tapping the top of the ear down, but every time I tightened it back up, it ended up in the same place. I realize now that I shouldn't have messed with it, but hindsight is 20/20. So I have a brand new bike that I can't return and I don't know if it can be fixed. Can the clamp be removed somehow and replaced or is the frame ruined?
Thanks for the help,
Renee
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Old 05-15-15, 08:33 PM
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Is the seat post the correct size? It is difficult or impossible to clamp an undersized post and the tolerance on the diameter is a small fraction of a millimeter. If the clamp is truly defective and is only tacked on at the front it could be ground off (carefully!) and a collar-type clamp like one of these fitted: Universal Cycles -- Seatposts > Clamps & Binders

Some clear, sharply-focused photos might help us to help you.
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Old 05-15-15, 08:41 PM
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If the clamp is only tacked on in one place, you should be able to get it off one way or another. Before you do that, measure the outside diameter of the seat tube, and confirm that it extends beyond the top tube and welds by enough that you can replace it with a standard seat collar.

If so, one way to remove the existing collar would be to file through it at the spot weld until it's free, then cleaning up that area. However, the clamp was probably attached before the frame was painted, so you'll have to touch it up before fitting your new collar on, and it might not cover everything.
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Old 05-15-15, 09:03 PM
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Thanks

Thanks for the responses. I'm reasonably sure that the post is the right size.

Please forgive my ignorance here if I'm not understanding the file and replace with a universal collar solution, but the tube doesn't extend beyond the existing collar at all. The weld (tack) is right where a replacement collar would sit.

Thanks again.

By the way, I should mention that if I could get by with this bike for even a couple of months, that would get me to a point where I could replace it, so even a less-than-optimal, temporary fix would help me out.
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Old 05-15-15, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by CatSchrodinger View Post
By the way, I should mention that if I could get by with this bike for even a couple of months, that would get me to a point where I could replace it, so even a less-than-optimal, temporary fix would help me out.
Again, some clear, sharply focused pictures of the seat tube clamp problem would be a great help in determining what can be done.
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Old 05-15-15, 11:55 PM
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I'd talk to the store where you got it. They may still trade it in as-is.

PHOTOS PLEASE.

You may need to cut or grind out the groove a little so that it clamps down.
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Old 05-16-15, 12:22 AM
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Originally Posted by CatSchrodinger View Post
...

Please forgive my ignorance here if I'm not understanding the file and replace with a universal collar solution, but the tube doesn't extend beyond the existing collar at all. The weld (tack) is right where a replacement collar would sit..
I inferred from your "tacked in front" reference that the clamp was held on with a single tack weld in the front, and therefore suggested filing through that and removing the collar and replacing it.

If that's not the case, and the collar cannot be removed with reasonable effort, life gets more complicated, and I'd need to see close up photos of the clamp area to suggest other options.

Though with an obvious defect like this, you should be able to promote a remedy from the seller regardless of the months having past. A warranty replacement wold be your bet bet, even if you have to take this to small claim court.
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Old 05-16-15, 03:49 AM
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Thank you everyone for your help. I think that filing off the existing clamp and replacing it is probably the way to go. Unfortunately, I didn't buy the bike locally, so trying to return it and ship it back from whence it came has its own set of problems associated with it.

I'll try to post my results as soon as I accomplish the task.

Thanks again.
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Old 05-16-15, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by CatSchrodinger View Post
Thank you everyone for your help. I think that filing off the existing clamp and replacing it is probably the way to go. Unfortunately, I didn't buy the bike locally, so trying to return it and ship it back from whence it came has its own set of problems associated with it
It wouldn't hurt to contact the seller and offer to possibly work something out where they pay the bill at a local shop to do the repair, rather than pay a bunch of shipping back and forth. Worst they can say is no.
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Old 05-16-15, 01:15 PM
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Or you could try contacting Zycle Fix to find out if any shops near you are dealers, and thus able to handle warranty claims.
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Old 05-16-15, 01:44 PM
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Photos of the problem always help when trying to explain the problem, whether it is to the forum, or to the company.
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Old 05-16-15, 05:21 PM
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brazed on seat lug or not ... post should not Slip down ... not really solvable with words go for an inspection.. have a Shop check It..

FWIW One solution I used was a 2nd, separate band clamp on the seat post Itself, which sits directly above the seat post band clamp that grips the Frame and squeezed the seat post.

it was done on my folding bike, so both bands clamp with QR levers..



one could buy the next 0.2mm larger seat post and have the seat tube reamed out carefully*, to have the oversize post just barely slip in .. then the squeezing amount will be Minimal .

did this for my RB1, took 0.1mm out of the tube wall so the 27.2 post went in the former 27.0 frame.

*( adjustable hand reamer + machinist's cutting oil..)

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Old 05-16-15, 08:22 PM
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Why can't you return it?

Most frames have a lifetime warranty, and even if your doesn't six months is not unreasonable for what sounds like a manufacturing defect.

Don't be a wimp; take it back in and ask the shop what they plan to do to fix this problem.

BTW, if you paid for the bike with a credit card they may also back you up with buyer protection, but I'd give the shop a chance to make it right first...
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Old 05-16-15, 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by rmfnla View Post
Why can't you return it?

Don't be a wimp; take it back in and ask the shop w.......
Sometimes it's better to be practical than to assert your rights.

If, as suspected, the collar is spot, or tack welded at only one place, and therefore relatively easy to remove, then removing and replacing is faster and cheaper than a FREE warranty job.

Consider $10.00 or so for a collar, plus something like an hour's work, compared to breaking down, packing and shipping a bike. Not only that, the eat it and DIY approach can solve the problem and have the bike on the road immediately, vs losing weeks at the peak of the season.

Of course, the OP should contact the maker, and email photos, and try to get them to pony up for the replacement clamp, plus possibly something for his labor, or that of a local shop. But even without a cent of compensation the $10.00 or so for a collar is dough well spent compared the the costs associated with a free job. Even gas money to drive back to the original dealer would cost more.

However, the analysis depends on two conditions.

1- the collar must be easily removed
2- the seat tube OD must be standard, with a replacement collar readily available.

If both conditions were met, and I were the OP, I'd have done the job by now, and be ready to take the bike out for a ride on Sunday.
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Old 05-18-15, 07:56 AM
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Thanks to all who replied. You have certainly given me a lot to think about, both in terms of physically repairing my bike, as well as addressing the issue with the seller/manufacturer. I will be sure to post the outcome as I am able.

Thanks again.
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Old 05-18-15, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by FBinNY View Post
Sometimes it's better to be practical than to assert your rights.

If, as suspected, the collar is spot, or tack welded at only one place, and therefore relatively easy to remove, then removing and replacing is faster and cheaper than a FREE warranty job.

Consider $10.00 or so for a collar, plus something like an hour's work, compared to breaking down, packing and shipping a bike. Not only that, the eat it and DIY approach can solve the problem and have the bike on the road immediately, vs losing weeks at the peak of the season.

Of course, the OP should contact the maker, and email photos, and try to get them to pony up for the replacement clamp, plus possibly something for his labor, or that of a local shop. But even without a cent of compensation the $10.00 or so for a collar is dough well spent compared the the costs associated with a free job. Even gas money to drive back to the original dealer would cost more.

However, the analysis depends on two conditions.

1- the collar must be easily removed
2- the seat tube OD must be standard, with a replacement collar readily available.

If both conditions were met, and I were the OP, I'd have done the job by now, and be ready to take the bike out for a ride on Sunday.
You assume the OP has the skills to do this. I submit that if she did she would have already done so instead of asking for guidance.

>$10.00 worth of gas to drive to a bike shop? Where's yours, Boston..?
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Old 05-18-15, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by rmfnla View Post
You assume the OP has the skills to do this. I submit that if she did she would have already done so instead of asking for guidance.

>$10.00 worth of gas to drive to a bike shop? Where's yours, Boston..?
I don't assume anything.

Not that much skill is required if the conditions referenced are met, but that's besides the point. I see my role as offering possible solutions, and the considerations involved. Then the OP has choices, and can make a reasoned decision among them

As for the gas, $10,00 is about enough for a 60 mile round trip. The OP lives upstate where shops are farther apart than they may be in larger markets, so 30 miles or more to a bike shop isn't rare.

Moreover the OP repeatedly said that going back to the seller was a problem for him, so I felt that he was looking for an alternative to that solution. See also my post No.7 where I aid that his best option was to pursue recourse with the maker, despite time having passed.
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Old 05-18-15, 09:25 AM
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Points taken.

I didn't see the post about not having bought the bike locally, but I still maintain that contacting the seller (if she bought it new) or the manufacturer would be the best first step...
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