YouthInAsia

Patched my first flat tire/tube this weekend. YouTube videos eased my struggles.
First I tried patching the hole without air in the tube. That didn't work.
Then I realized I wasn't using enough glue. That also didn't hold.
Then I watched a YouTube video and noticed that I should patch the tube when it's got a lot of air in it. And smear on lots of glue to cover the entire surface area the patch will go onto. And to put the tube back in the tire before fully inflating it. Yes, it was a learning process, but it's done. And it's holding. :-)

Any tips for patching flats that you'd like to share with a noob like me?

bikeman715

timing is everything , you ruff the area , then clean the area , add glue bigger that the patch you gong to use , let the glue dry for 5 mins . add patch hold in place for a minute , add air to shape the tube ,and put back into tire , pump up to pressure then ride . I never add air to the tube before ( only to find the hole ) or during the time of patching .

Black wallnut 

Roughen the area around the puncture, apply patch cement larger than patch, let dry. Affix patch, rub with a hard object like a tire lever so as to "stitch" the patch on. Then re-install tube in tire.

Pretty much exactly like bikeman715 posted with the exceptions of cleaning and "stitching"

Only inflate to find puncture. Only use enough adhesive to cover the area of the patch, a thin coat is all that is needed.

caloso

Let the vulcanizing fluid (it's not glue) dry completely. When in doubt, wait a little longer.

YouthInAsia

Additional Questions:
1. If I got a flat I shouldn't worry about how much air is in the tube before applying the patch?
2. And I should let the glue/cement/vulcanizing fluid dry for 5 minutes BEFORE applying the patch?
3. Wait another 5 minutes or so for the patch to adhere?

bikeman715

1 . No , you shouldn't worry about it . If it brother you , you can always remove the cord if it need be to let out any air left in the tube .
2. Yes let the vulcanizing fluid (glue) dry for 5 minutes BEFORE you apply the patch .
3 . No need to wait another 5 minutes for the patch to adhere , just press on or rub with a hard object like a tire lever so as to "stitch" the patch on . Pump up some air to see if it will hold then put back into the tire .

ArtShapiro

I've observed that most folks don't roughen the surface enough. I personally use a Dremel tool with an abrasive attachment.

I usually let the tube hang in the sun for several hours after patching. Then the cellophane on the Rema patch pulls off without lifting the patch. That seems to indicate that patches don't fully adhere for some period of time, because otherwise pulling the cellophane always starts to take off the patch.

Art

caloso

I never take the cellophane off. I just stick it in the tire.

bikeman715

If you pull on the tube after the patch is stitch on the cellophane will spilt in the middle and then you can remove it without removing the patch .

Crankycrank

I used to think that putting a patch on an inflated tube would put less stress on the repair but I had a few failures when doing this. I would guess that trying to put a patch on a less stable inflated surface would cause a little movement while the patch was bonding and also air is trying to force it's way past the patch during the bonding process. Your results may be better but it's usually just easier to make a repair on a deflated tube.

cale

Don't use your finger tip to determine if the cement has dried. The oils/dirt in you fingers will spoil the glue. Use your finger nail, the flat back, instead.

davidad

The reason for sanding a tube is to remove the mold release that keeps a patch from adhering. Being anal I lightly sand the spot and then clean it with acetone. I apply the cement and let it sit for at least 5 minutes and put on the patch. I use a piece of metal to press the patch on the tube and it is ready to use.

Number400

The cellophane should be left on the patch. It will prevent the patch from gluing itself to the tire and getting pulled away from the tube. According to the directions, it is designed to stay on.

IrishBrewer

If you don't want the cellophane to be left on, you could sprinkle some talcum (baby powder) on the completed repair prior to remounting.

dr_lha

Back in the day patch kits always came with a block of chalk and something abrasive so you could do this on the road.

YouthInAsia

I appreciate all the tips! Hopefully I won't have to patch a tube anytime soon though!

Leaving the cement on and letting it dry for 5 minutes before applying the patch was something I had no clue about.

How would these tips be modified if I was repairing a tube roadside?

bikeman715

How would these tips be modified if I was repairing a tube roadside? it all the same . most people will replace the tube with a new one on the road then patch the old one when they get home , unless they get another flat then yes a roadside job is done .

pursuance

The EPA eliminated the Camel hot patches I used as a child 55 years ago.
But this tip seems to work for at home patching.
Using long nose vise grip pliers and the tail-side of two quarters, then heating the patch quarter with a "crack lighter" seems to really set the patch.
Use moderate pressure and heat, do not over do it.
Yes, proper buffing, cleaning(I use brake clean on a cloth) and fresh glue/patch is still a must.
BTW, I hate glueless patches.