Thinking about a new fork, what do i need?
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TrekDualSuspension Freak!
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Thinking about a new fork, what do i need?
Im thinking about a new xc fork rspilot sl or xc duke, do i need anything else? will a new headset and stem or bar compliment the fork? how does the install go for this? how much will it cost at a lbs? how much are the tools for this type of job? I find this very intresting? On my bike my stem has a 25 mm rise, and the handle bar has a 30mm rise, i like the position im in when i ride, can i find the same position?
Frameset
Sizes 16, 17.5, 19"
Frame Alpha Aluminum
Front Suspension InSync Grind 2, 70mm
Rear Shock rs ario w/ lockout
Wheels
Wheels Alloy front, Shimano RM40 rear hub; WTB Dual Duty rims
Tires Bontrager Connection Trail, 26x2.0"
Drivetrain
Shifters Shimano EF29
Front Derailleur Shimano C050
Rear Derailleur Shimano Acera
Crankset SR 42/34/24
Cassette SRAM 730 12-32, 7speed
Pedals Alloy platform, clipless adaptable
Components
Saddle Bontrager Sport
Seatpost Bontrager
Handlebars 30mm rise
Stem Bontrager, 25 degree
Headset Aheadset, semi-cartridge, sealed
Brakeset Tektro V w/Shimano STI levers
Frameset
Sizes 16, 17.5, 19"
Frame Alpha Aluminum
Front Suspension InSync Grind 2, 70mm
Rear Shock rs ario w/ lockout
Wheels
Wheels Alloy front, Shimano RM40 rear hub; WTB Dual Duty rims
Tires Bontrager Connection Trail, 26x2.0"
Drivetrain
Shifters Shimano EF29
Front Derailleur Shimano C050
Rear Derailleur Shimano Acera
Crankset SR 42/34/24
Cassette SRAM 730 12-32, 7speed
Pedals Alloy platform, clipless adaptable
Components
Saddle Bontrager Sport
Seatpost Bontrager
Handlebars 30mm rise
Stem Bontrager, 25 degree
Headset Aheadset, semi-cartridge, sealed
Brakeset Tektro V w/Shimano STI levers
#2
la vache fantôme
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you dont need any new anything for a new fork. Installation goes around 25 i think. You can do it yourself, its not very difficult. Or have your LBS do it and watch.
You need to pay attention to steer tube height. New forks will probably have it too long for your needs, but maybe not. Anyways you will need either spacers or if you need to go down you have to cut your steerer tube. Yes you can find the same position.
Really all you need is some way to install the crown race, park makes a tool but I use PVC pipe.
Allen key for tightening the headset topcap thing and the stem bolts.
Ummm..I think thats it, i might have missed something
You need to pay attention to steer tube height. New forks will probably have it too long for your needs, but maybe not. Anyways you will need either spacers or if you need to go down you have to cut your steerer tube. Yes you can find the same position.
Really all you need is some way to install the crown race, park makes a tool but I use PVC pipe.
Allen key for tightening the headset topcap thing and the stem bolts.
Ummm..I think thats it, i might have missed something
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#3
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Originally Posted by phantomcow2
you dont need any new anything for a new fork. Installation goes around 25 i think. You can do it yourself, its not very difficult. Or have your LBS do it and watch.
You need to pay attention to steer tube height. New forks will probably have it too long for your needs, but maybe not. Anyways you will need either spacers or if you need to go down you have to cut your steerer tube. Yes you can find the same position.
Really all you need is some way to install the crown race, park makes a tool but I use PVC pipe.
Allen key for tightening the headset topcap thing and the stem bolts.
Ummm..I think thats it, i might have missed something
You need to pay attention to steer tube height. New forks will probably have it too long for your needs, but maybe not. Anyways you will need either spacers or if you need to go down you have to cut your steerer tube. Yes you can find the same position.
Really all you need is some way to install the crown race, park makes a tool but I use PVC pipe.
Allen key for tightening the headset topcap thing and the stem bolts.
Ummm..I think thats it, i might have missed something
The OP needs a new star-fangled nut, otherwise tightening the top cap on the headset isn't going to do much of anything. Removal of the crown race on the fork needs to be done; shops have a tool for this (not cheap) or you can hammer it off with a screwdriver if you like. Sometimes the latter method results in enough damage to the bearing race that it needs to be replaced. You can set the race yourself with PVC but there is a slight risk of it not being 100% in plane with the bearings, yielding unsexy results for your headset. Again there is a tool for this but it is not usually cost effective for a consumer to invest in one.
If you were to buy the tools and the fork you'd already be surpassing the cost of your bike; just the fork is likely a significant portion of the original price on the bike. Not quite sure I'd want to sink that much money into the fork on that bike when it's likely you will start going through other parts on it with consistent hard use. That's just me, though, and if it gets you out riding so much the better.
#4
TrekDualSuspension Freak!
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Originally Posted by Waldo
Indeed you did.
The OP needs a new star-fangled nut, otherwise tightening the top cap on the headset isn't going to do much of anything. Removal of the crown race on the fork needs to be done; shops have a tool for this (not cheap) or you can hammer it off with a screwdriver if you like. Sometimes the latter method results in enough damage to the bearing race that it needs to be replaced. You can set the race yourself with PVC but there is a slight risk of it not being 100% in plane with the bearings, yielding unsexy results for your headset. Again there is a tool for this but it is not usually cost effective for a consumer to invest in one.
If you were to buy the tools and the fork you'd already be surpassing the cost of your bike; just the fork is likely a significant portion of the original price on the bike. Not quite sure I'd want to sink that much money into the fork on that bike when it's likely you will start going through other parts on it with consistent hard use. That's just me, though, and if it gets you out riding so much the better.
The OP needs a new star-fangled nut, otherwise tightening the top cap on the headset isn't going to do much of anything. Removal of the crown race on the fork needs to be done; shops have a tool for this (not cheap) or you can hammer it off with a screwdriver if you like. Sometimes the latter method results in enough damage to the bearing race that it needs to be replaced. You can set the race yourself with PVC but there is a slight risk of it not being 100% in plane with the bearings, yielding unsexy results for your headset. Again there is a tool for this but it is not usually cost effective for a consumer to invest in one.
If you were to buy the tools and the fork you'd already be surpassing the cost of your bike; just the fork is likely a significant portion of the original price on the bike. Not quite sure I'd want to sink that much money into the fork on that bike when it's likely you will start going through other parts on it with consistent hard use. That's just me, though, and if it gets you out riding so much the better.
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thats right! He needs a star fangled nut. but these can be picked up for cheap at a good LBS. I have installed several crown races with my pvc pipe without issue. BUt i think if your doing this your first time you might as well have your shop do it, the 25 should include all of that
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#6
TrekDualSuspension Freak!
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Cool thanks a lot! hopefully its cheaper here in puerto rico.
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Do you have a threadless headset and stem? Chances are, a bike like that will have a threaded headset and stem, and it wont fit.