Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Giant Revel 3 Suntour Crank Arm Loose

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Giant Revel 3 Suntour Crank Arm Loose

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-27-15, 11:42 PM
  #26  
Senior Member
 
cale's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Seattle
Posts: 3,248

Bikes: Kuota Ksano. Litespeed T5 gravel - brilliant!

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Originally Posted by catonec
You probably dont have to replace your bottom bracket (crank bearings and spindle). I would chase the threads, replace the bolts (if you havent already), and use the blue locktight. I have to use threadlock, and I have an expensive crankset so buying a new/better one as suggested above, most likely wont help.
It is possible you are right but after moving to Dura-Ace FC-7400 cranks in the late 80's, I never again had problems with square-taper cranks. Just my experience.
cale is offline  
Old 05-28-15, 08:29 AM
  #27  
Super Moderator
 
Homebrew01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ffld Cnty Connecticut
Posts: 21,843

Bikes: Old Steelies I made, Old Cannondales

Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1173 Post(s)
Liked 927 Times in 612 Posts
Your crank arm could have a crack where it attaches to the axle, causing it to flex and become loose.
__________________
Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.

FYI: https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sugg...ad-please.html
Homebrew01 is offline  
Old 05-28-15, 08:57 AM
  #28  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Boston, MA, USA
Posts: 10

Bikes: Giant Revel 3

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by cale
You probably moved to quality cranks. That's what's up here. Anything is possible but generally speaking what happens is that the left arm is more flexible (it doesn't have the additional structural design/material that contributes to stiffness on the drive-side). This slight flexibility does act on the retaining bolt which holds the crank to the axle, it stretches the bolt minutely and at the same time it acts, like a good lever, to move material around the square taper of the axle. All this is very slight and generally is not significant enough to loosen the crank arm. However, provided enough force and enough bolt stretch/movement, the crank will work continuously to enlarge the hole into which the axle is stuck.

The 2-piece design offers a few advantages. The entire structure, cranks/axle/bearings, is much stiffer because the drive-side crank has the axle spindle permanently affixed and this spindle is of a significantly larger diameter (eg stiffer) than the crank style you currently have. There are some measurements that I am not able to determine so, I'm afraid, I can't make more than general suggestions.
Thanks for the detailed explanation.

It feels like moving to a higher quality, two-piece crank is the way to go primarily because my previous experience with my BMX bikes. I broke through three sets of pedals before finally upgrading my crankset and getting new pedals. Since then, I never ever had a problem with either one and both were holding up really well. I even dusted off the old bike before moving to my current Giant setup, and everything worked fantastic even after a few years of storage.

No worries about general suggestions, those are very useful too. I think I'm just going to talk to the bike tech about upgrading and figure it out that way. That said, another bike forum suggested this crankset, any opinions on it?

Shimano Deore M590 9 Speed Triple Chainset | Chain Reaction Cycles

I'm only familiar with the Shimano brand and heard they're good quality. But at this point I'm willing to defer to the bike tech's judgment and by what he has in stock. Or if general suggestions are a bit too tedious, can anybody suggest what brands to stay away from or they've had poor experiences with?

Originally Posted by catonec
You probably dont have to replace your bottom bracket (crank bearings and spindle). I would chase the threads, replace the bolts (if you havent already), and use the blue locktight. I have to use threadlock, and I have an expensive crankset so buying a new/better one as suggested above, most likely wont help.
I've done all of this a few times, either through the bike shop I bought the bike in, or after the last time the bolt got loose. I used blue loctite and let it set overnight just to be sure it had set properly. The first ride I took the bike on afterwards, the bolt loosened again. It didn't pop out or anything, just loosened enough that I could feel something was up with crank, specifically a slight wobble. I'm so desperate that I'm considering using red loctite, but as a previous poster mentioned: if it becomes semi-permanent and a huge hassle to remove I'll be out of luck and with a new problem.

Thanks all for your help and information provided. I'm a bit tired of toying with the crankset I currently have, so I think I'll bite the bullet and drop some cash on a better quality crankset. I'll be sure to update the thread with what happened in the end.
Wariat is offline  
Old 05-28-15, 09:50 AM
  #29  
The Improbable Bulk
 
Little Darwin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Wilkes-Barre, PA
Posts: 8,379

Bikes: Many

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times in 7 Posts
I have ridden entry level components for the past 10+ years at weights ranging from 300-365 (up and down) and have never had a crank arm come loose. There is a problem, and it should be resolved.

I would imaging that if the taper is off even a little on the BB that it could be causing your problem, especially since the crank arm has been replaced.

I don't think that there is even any significant rotational force that should impact the crank bolt if everything is working right, since the bolt is designed to hold the crank to a pretty rigid square taper. If there is any rotation at all, it again points me to a faulty crank arm or BB.

I wouldn't even try red Loctite. Since Blue didn't work, there is an issue that should be resolved with the bolt, crank arm or BB. Red Loctite would kjeep the bolt from turning, but it wouldn't address the core issue (whatever it is).
__________________
Slow Ride Cyclists of NEPA

People do not seem to realize that their opinion of the world is also a confession of character.
- Ralph Waldo Emerson
Little Darwin is offline  
Old 05-28-15, 11:24 AM
  #30  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Llano Estacado
Posts: 3,702

Bikes: old clunker

Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 684 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 105 Times in 83 Posts
Originally Posted by Wariat
. . . It feels like moving to a higher quality, two-piece crank is the way to go primarily because my previous experience with my BMX bikes. . .
Did you ride two-piece cranks in BMX? You might not feel like your new two-piece cranks are "higher quality" after six months when the bearings are worn out.

As a point of reference, many thousands of 350 pound riders have ridden many millions of miles on square taper cranks without problems. You might want to actually identify the source of your problem before picking a solution, especially since it appears you have not obtained adequate technical service up to now.
AnkleWork is offline  
Old 05-28-15, 11:24 AM
  #31  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Boston, MA, USA
Posts: 10

Bikes: Giant Revel 3

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
A quick update: took the bike to the bike shop I got it from, and called them first. By the time I showed up, they'd ordered another crankset from Giant, because it's still under warranty. This time they said that the crankset is going to be splined rather than the square taper, and that the newly ordered crankset will be brand new. And it's all free since it's under warranty.

Here's hoping that this will solve the problem. And thanks again everyone. Will be sure to update as it all progresses in case somebody else encounters a problem like this.
Wariat is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
bartek.
Track Cycling: Velodrome Racing and Training Area
21
03-22-19 11:39 AM
j_e_parker
Singlespeed & Fixed Gear
17
06-18-18 12:52 PM
brokeHaro
Bicycle Mechanics
11
08-09-15 08:53 PM
thedoc46
Bicycle Mechanics
5
10-22-14 03:10 PM
StephanePare
Bicycle Mechanics
14
08-23-11 05:47 AM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.