zpl

Hello,

I recently noticed that there are two widths of Shimano 10sp chains, 6.1mm, which the Tiagra CN-4601 chain uses:

https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...2&category=533

and 5.8mm width, which it looks like 105 and above uses:

https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...7&category=533

I recently replaced my cassette and chain and went with the Tiagra CS-4600 cassette and the Ultegra CN-6600 chain (based on what the LBS had in stock at the time). Since presumably the Tiagra cassette was designed to work with the wider Tiagra chain, I'm wondering if the narrower chains that 105 and above have could cause any problems? I'm finding that my shift adjustments seem to work for a ride or two but need further fiddling more than I'd like, and I want to know for certain if I can rule out this chain/cassette combination being the problem.

Thanks,

Scott

HillRider

I'm not sure but I think that 6.1 mm width is a mis-print. AFAIK, all "10-speed" Shimano chains are interchangeable and all are the same width. As to working with a wider spaced cassette, I have a CN-5600 (105 10-speed) chain on my rain bike using an 8-speed cassette and indexing shifters and it shifts perfectly. So, what ever your problem is, it's not due to a too narrow chain.

CafeVelo

A lot of 105 bikes came spec'd with tiagra wear items (chain and cassette) when they were both 10 speed. You should be able to mix and match anything 10 speed with anything else.

zpl

Great to hear! Thanks for the replies.

Andrew R Stewart 

Shimano will say that their mountain and road chains are not compatible TO A DEGREE THAT THEY DESIGN TO. Having said that many do it all the time. Andy.

Kimmo 

Drop the chain into the smallest cog on the back. Then, without pedalling, shift the rd a few clicks to load up the cable (firm, but not super hard). Then turn the cranks to let the chain shift and unload the cable before releasing it from the shifter again.

Now, if you loosen the pinch bolt you may find you've liberated some slack by firmly seating the ferrules onto the housing ends, and when you adjust the derailer you should find your adjustment sticks.

If it's still fussy after that, you have another issue that's detracting from the system's performance like excess cable friction, a bent hanger, worn derailer, etc.

But don't be too surprised if you're never entirely happy with it; Shimano's 10s road system pulls too little cable per shift to be 100% reliable. I hate that system. Another gripe from the same cause is cables fraying inside the shifter, due to the small radius of the spool.

Fun times. Such a bummer that Jtek is no more; swapping out STIs for Ergos is win.

cale

All the Shimano 10-speed chains I've recently installed require that the printed plates face out. They are directional. Just something to keep in mind, you chain changers.

Kimmo 

And if you're not using a quick link, the outer plates you put the pin in should be on the leading end of the chain, ie the special pin is in the front (relative to chain movement under drive).

cale

Uhh... I'm pretty certain that's only for Kiwis and Platypuses. On this side, we put the quick link on the trailing end. Haha

Kimmo 

Sure about that? Look at the still.

cale

Right. You'd have to be pretty neat and tidy to follow that sort of detail. The pin doesn't even bear any strain in use.

Kimmo 

I imagine it's something to do with the load it might see during shifting.