using top-mount cross lever with v brakes (and v brake set up in general)
04-21-05, 11:52 AM
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using top-mount cross lever with v brakes (and v brake set up in general)
i've set cross levers up (salsa levers and also the cheapy nashbar levers) to work with side-pull ultegra road brakes and also with old-school mountain cantilevers.
i'm using them as an only brake lever and both of the above setups have worked well.
i tried to set up a bike with contemporary V brakes and had some problems, though. semed difficult to get enough tension on the cable to pull the brake properly. if i tightened the cable more, the brake arms would no longer sit parallel to the rim.
i don't know if it has anything to do with the lever (they are cross levers after all, and i assume some cross bikes use V brakes) or just my lack of knowlege about mountain brakes (more likely).
any pointers on this setup?
thanks!
i'm using them as an only brake lever and both of the above setups have worked well.
i tried to set up a bike with contemporary V brakes and had some problems, though. semed difficult to get enough tension on the cable to pull the brake properly. if i tightened the cable more, the brake arms would no longer sit parallel to the rim.
i don't know if it has anything to do with the lever (they are cross levers after all, and i assume some cross bikes use V brakes) or just my lack of knowlege about mountain brakes (more likely).
any pointers on this setup?
thanks!
04-21-05, 04:06 PM
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V brakes take about twice the amount of cable pull as most other brakes. If you're not using V brake specific levers, you'll probably need to use a Travel Agent or similar cable pull doubling device.
04-21-05, 08:21 PM
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Travel agents, they replace the noodle on the brake arm. Can a little tricky to set up at first, but work like a charm. These will definitely solve your problem.
04-21-05, 08:33 PM
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Did you put the narrow spacer to the inside? Try wide inside.
The v-pads have 2 cones\2 washers, the washer are 2 sizes. By putting the wider washer inside, you'll hit the rim with the caliper wider.
I'd use a lever specific to V's.
But the washer thing is a note =a wide rim and reverse, small washer inside.
The v-pads have 2 cones\2 washers, the washer are 2 sizes. By putting the wider washer inside, you'll hit the rim with the caliper wider.
I'd use a lever specific to V's.
But the washer thing is a note =a wide rim and reverse, small washer inside.
04-21-05, 09:35 PM
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That's the set up I have on my Trek 520: both 287V and "cross levers!
It works just fine, thank you very much!! No travel agents involved!!
Just make sure the "cross levers you get are compatible with a V-Brake set-up...some are, some are not.
Comaptible models include those 'cross levers made by Specialized and Salsa. The Tektro 2.0's, however, are not..and say so in the manufacturer's instructions!
V-Brakes tend to be "grabby" and rub a lot if the pads are set too close to the rim; setting them slightly "wide" will minimize this (MTB racers are known to do just that to minimize 'grabbiness' and rim-rubbing.).
Also, V-Brake pads rarely need to be "toed-in"--set the pads parallel to the rim to start. "Toe-in " slightly if they "squeal" too much--this usually eliminates the noise.
It works just fine, thank you very much!! No travel agents involved!!
Just make sure the "cross levers you get are compatible with a V-Brake set-up...some are, some are not.
Comaptible models include those 'cross levers made by Specialized and Salsa. The Tektro 2.0's, however, are not..and say so in the manufacturer's instructions!
V-Brakes tend to be "grabby" and rub a lot if the pads are set too close to the rim; setting them slightly "wide" will minimize this (MTB racers are known to do just that to minimize 'grabbiness' and rim-rubbing.).
Also, V-Brake pads rarely need to be "toed-in"--set the pads parallel to the rim to start. "Toe-in " slightly if they "squeal" too much--this usually eliminates the noise.
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04-21-05, 11:57 PM
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Perhaps you already read this Sheldon Brown article on mechanical advanage; but here it is just in case. Once again, Sheldon Brown to the rescue:
https://sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-geometry.html
Toward the bottom is a section on V-Brakes and STI shifters.
Contrary to advice from above, you can't just space the brake pads in toward the rim. It will look like the brakes are set properly; but there are leverage issues involved, not just how close the pads are in relation to the rim.
Lastly, most cross bikes do not use V-Brakes because cantilevers work with STI shifters without adapters.
https://sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-geometry.html
Toward the bottom is a section on V-Brakes and STI shifters.
Contrary to advice from above, you can't just space the brake pads in toward the rim. It will look like the brakes are set properly; but there are leverage issues involved, not just how close the pads are in relation to the rim.
Lastly, most cross bikes do not use V-Brakes because cantilevers work with STI shifters without adapters.
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