Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Disassembly of Sturmey-Archer X-RD5 - advice and warnings please!

Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Disassembly of Sturmey-Archer X-RD5 - advice and warnings please!

Old 06-16-15, 08:34 AM
  #1  
Chesterton
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 189

Bikes: Pashley Roadster Sovereign, Cycles Toussaint Velo Routier, Yuba Mundo, Raleigh Sports (1970)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 21 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Disassembly of Sturmey-Archer X-RD5 - advice and warnings please!

I've finally set aside some time to disassemble my Sturmey-Archer X-RD5 (5-speed rear hub with drum brake). This is my first time working on the innards of an internal gear hub and I am hoping to collect any advice and cautions before I begin. The problem I am trying to debug is that my hub suddenly jammed in first (or some low) gear. The indicator spindle chain is slack and the spindle will not pull back into the hub.

I have watched several YouTube videos and read multiple websites showing the disassembly of a AW 3-speed hub, and I have watched a video showing how the X-RD5 ball locking mechanism works compared to the 3-speed hubs. I have read the technical document located here: https://www.sturmey-archerheritage.co...s/view-287.pdf

I have one question from that document already. It refers to a circlip that secures the planet cage (part HSL 729) and says in step 9 of the disassembly instructions that removing the circlip is destructive and I will need to procure a new one. Is that accurate, and is it likely I will need to remove the sun pinions and locking balls in order to troubleshoot this problem?

I have started some initial disassembly and have removed the sprocket and the right-hand locknut, cone, clutch spring, and clutch spring cap. I originally thought the clutch spring might have broken and that would explain why the spindle is not being pulled into the hub but it seems to be intact.

One very odd thing: I do not have a lockwasher between the right hand locknut and the cone! That doesn't seem right to me. The bike has been serviced by my LBS when I was having gear issues a couple of years ago, and the hub innards were replaced at that point under warranty. I wonder if the bike shop lost the lockwasher or forgot to install it. Should I buy a new lockwasher and add it? My only concern is that if it wasn't meant to be there and I add one, it will throw off my O.L.D., won't it? (Now I'm wondering what other mysterious discrepancies I will discover!)

Any other advice or gotchas you can warn me about are greatly appreciated, before I dive into this project. Especially any little "make sure to"s that the written instructions neglect to mention. Thanks!
Chesterton is offline  
Old 06-16-15, 11:10 AM
  #2  
Mickey2
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 254
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I always have to brave up a day or two in avance when opening hubs. I feel more comfortable with old Sachs and Sturmey archer 3 speeds, probably because I have owned bikes with them and have been given a bit of help when I have cleaned and oiled them. For the HSL 729 clip, it's probably the case, since discarding it also is mentioned in the SA pfd manual. I would not hesitate to get a replacment clip before I opened the hub. It sounds like one of those clips that bend out of shape or break when you take them out.

I have cleaned and oiled Nexus 7 hubs by just opening the hub taking the entire assembly out and dipped it in tinner. After it has seeped in there for a while, I have let it drain and dry off, then greased with different greases. It seemed like a horror to dismantle it completely. I have used both the white lithium grease and the black stuff from Shimano. These days I go for Finish Line Ceramic grease, it's nice and it's not too sticky and it runs very smooth. I haven't found anything that much better than the other. The advantage with some greases is it stands up to road salt and water better than pure greases. I have switched to a nice synthetic oil with teflon on my internals hubs, both for the old that were made to be oiled, a Nexus 7 hub and an old Sachs Pentasport 5 speed. You have the version with drum brakes, I'm not sure how tight the compartment for the brake shoes are in the newer 5 speeds, but the old AB hub could easily be over flooded with oil and get the the brake shoes (arghhh!!). It's at least an argument for using a nice and not too heavy grease.

Is it the square HMW 147 washer that's missing? In theory it's a must must to replace it. If you are lucky a good cleaning and greasing are all your hub needs to shift into all gears. Double check the shifter too, it can act up for various reasons; all shift should click firmy into place; outer and inner cable need to be in good condition, as well as the basic adjustment of the gear. I'm sure you know, but it's easy to overlook some times.

Hopefully someone with more experience and first hand knowledge of the X-RD5 hub will reply too.
Mickey2 is offline  
Old 06-16-15, 11:35 AM
  #3  
Chesterton
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 189

Bikes: Pashley Roadster Sovereign, Cycles Toussaint Velo Routier, Yuba Mundo, Raleigh Sports (1970)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 21 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Yes, I'm missing the HMW 147 lockwasher. Seems like it ought to be there, no? I'm also missing any sprocket spacer washers, but I think those are optional in order to adjust your chainline.

I'll order the lockwasher and circlip from sjscycles.co.uk, along with some official Sturmey-Archer grease, when I figure what's wrong with the hub and if I need to order any other replacement bits and bobs.

There's nothing wrong with the cable or shifter, as the cable is slack in low gear and even by hand there's nothing I can do to shift to a higher gear.
Chesterton is offline  
Old 06-16-15, 12:46 PM
  #4  
noglider 
aka Tom Reingold
 
noglider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: New York, NY, USA
Posts: 40,125

Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem

Mentioned: 492 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6989 Post(s)
Liked 1,707 Times in 1,061 Posts
Paging @Dan Burkhart.
__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog

“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author

Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
noglider is offline  
Old 06-16-15, 12:48 PM
  #5  
Mickey2
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 254
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I would not assume the work shop did everything correct. I have come across brand new bikes with all kinds of misassembled parts, so new the first puncture hasn't happened yet. I have seen shops where 14 and 16 years olds are set to assemble bikes for sale, and they are not always given the best teachers to guide them. I don't think there is any good reason why all the washers aren't there. Some are to guide the axle into correct position, especially HMW 155, HSA 480, HMW 150 looks like risky to miss. Since you have the brake arm to guide the hub into place it might work with out them. The only reason I can think of for them to be missing is if you try to squeeze a too wide hub axle into a frame not really made for it; it would save space? I lean towards a mishap at some point in the bikes life, mostly likely later on, but could even have happened at the very first assembly at the bike shop. I think these washers come in two different types, for different angled dropouts, since they slide on to the straight part on the axle they stay put.

My 1986 Sachs 5 gear only needed a good clean and oiling to run fine again, there were traces of wear but still runs fine. It has taken a lot of beating over the years, I hope your hub responds as well as my did. It was in for a service a year and a half ago, but now I'm more confident to tackle challenges like these my self. Now I'm looking to buy the proper tools for the job :- )

Last edited by Mickey2; 06-16-15 at 01:03 PM.
Mickey2 is offline  
Old 06-16-15, 01:44 PM
  #6  
Chesterton
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 189

Bikes: Pashley Roadster Sovereign, Cycles Toussaint Velo Routier, Yuba Mundo, Raleigh Sports (1970)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 21 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Regarding those outer washers: my setup is a little bit different than the "Summit" hub described in the technical leaflet I linked above. Instead of having the weird plastic "gear selector guide" that fits over the axle nut, it has the more traditional long axle nut with a smooth edge that the indicator chain bends over and the frame of the bike has a braze-on for the shift cable stop. So I don't have any of those extra washers between the cone locknut and the axle nut, just the anti-rotation washer that goes in the fork end and a couple of generic flat washers surrounding the rack and fender mounts.

I don't assume much about the LBS work either. My bike is definitely a novelty there, and I have previously had shops randomly discard pieces that they didn't think were needed. Good motivation to learn to do my own bike work, anyway!
Chesterton is offline  
Old 06-16-15, 03:20 PM
  #7  
Mickey2
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 254
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
The HMW 147 lock washer is there to make it easier to adjust the next tightening nut, which is the last part that fits right next to the drop out. It's there on any SA hub really, even on the older ones with the toggle chain comming out of the axle nut. In stead of the lock washer, is there any regular non-lock washer? I think I would just replace it, I cannot see any reason why having one should disturb anything. You are the one with the hub in front of you, so trust your self before me :- )
Mickey2 is offline  
Old 06-16-15, 07:50 PM
  #8  
Dan Burkhart 
Senior member
 
Dan Burkhart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Oakville Ontario
Posts: 7,811
Mentioned: 23 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 790 Post(s)
Liked 382 Times in 217 Posts
I have re used that circlip several times with no issues. You should be able to tell if it has passed it's service life if it won't firmly spring into place when re installed.
If you remove the planet cage, be sure to time the planetaries when re installing. This is explained at 5:15 of this video. This is a critical step.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R_Z0H2U6ejs
Dan Burkhart is offline  
Old 06-16-15, 08:19 PM
  #9  
noglider 
aka Tom Reingold
 
noglider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: New York, NY, USA
Posts: 40,125

Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem

Mentioned: 492 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6989 Post(s)
Liked 1,707 Times in 1,061 Posts
@Dan Burkhart, you are the man!
__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog

“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author

Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
noglider is offline  
Old 06-17-15, 08:41 AM
  #10  
Chesterton
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 189

Bikes: Pashley Roadster Sovereign, Cycles Toussaint Velo Routier, Yuba Mundo, Raleigh Sports (1970)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 21 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I was hoping Dan Burkhart would chime in! His videos have been very helpful to me.

I did some more disassembly last night. Removed the left side hardware and the brake plate. Filthy inside and needed a good cleanout with alcohol. Removed the dust cap, driver, clutch, clutch spring and sleeve. Everything seems intact and accounted for.

Now I am a bit stumped at unscrewing the internal assembly from the hub shell. A screwdriver and hammer didn't budge it and I don't want to scratch or nick up the hub too badly. I'm wondering if it's worth spending $50 or so to order the Sturmey-Archer c-spanner and have it shipped from England. I was hoping to diagnose the problem before placing the overseas order, but if I can't get the hub apart... Maybe I need a stouter punch?
Chesterton is offline  
Old 06-17-15, 11:34 AM
  #11  
Dan Burkhart 
Senior member
 
Dan Burkhart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Oakville Ontario
Posts: 7,811
Mentioned: 23 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 790 Post(s)
Liked 382 Times in 217 Posts
Originally Posted by Chesterton View Post
I was hoping Dan Burkhart would chime in! His videos have been very helpful to me.

I did some more disassembly last night. Removed the left side hardware and the brake plate. Filthy inside and needed a good cleanout with alcohol. Removed the dust cap, driver, clutch, clutch spring and sleeve. Everything seems intact and accounted for.

Now I am a bit stumped at unscrewing the internal assembly from the hub shell. A screwdriver and hammer didn't budge it and I don't want to scratch or nick up the hub too badly. I'm wondering if it's worth spending $50 or so to order the Sturmey-Archer c-spanner and have it shipped from England. I was hoping to diagnose the problem before placing the overseas order, but if I can't get the hub apart... Maybe I need a stouter punch?
Does the ball ring have the square notches or scalloped? A chisel works well for the square, for the scalloped notches, I use a stout brass punch and hammer. The brass will deform slightly to provide a good purchase. It has not yet failed me, and I've removed some ball rings that were torqued in pretty good. I don't even own the proper spanner.
Dan Burkhart is offline  
Old 06-17-15, 11:44 AM
  #12  
Chesterton
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 189

Bikes: Pashley Roadster Sovereign, Cycles Toussaint Velo Routier, Yuba Mundo, Raleigh Sports (1970)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 21 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Dan Burkhart View Post
Does the ball ring have the square notches or scalloped? A chisel works well for the square, for the scalloped notches, I use a stout brass punch and hammer. The brass will deform slightly to provide a good purchase. It has not yet failed me, and I've removed some ball rings that were torqued in pretty good. I don't even own the proper spanner.
They are the scalloped notches. I will try to acquire a good solid brass punch and try that before ordering the spanner.

Dan, any thoughts on what could cause the indicator spindle to jam outwards (in a low gear)? The clutch spring and clutch sleeve spring both look intact. My suspicions are now leaning towards the shuttle pin inside the axle (and I assume there must be a little spring in there as well?) having got jammed in such a way that the clutch is being forced back towards the driver. Until I get the ball ring unscrewed I won't be able to tell. Are the axle guts serviceable at all, or do I just buy a new axle assembly if it comes to that?

What is the purpose of the clutch sleeve and the little clutch sleeve spring, by the way? I'm not fully understanding the interplay of forces inside the hub yet.
Chesterton is offline  
Old 06-17-15, 01:38 PM
  #13  
Dan Burkhart 
Senior member
 
Dan Burkhart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Oakville Ontario
Posts: 7,811
Mentioned: 23 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 790 Post(s)
Liked 382 Times in 217 Posts
Originally Posted by Chesterton View Post
They are the scalloped notches. I will try to acquire a good solid brass punch and try that before ordering the spanner.

Dan, any thoughts on what could cause the indicator spindle to jam outwards (in a low gear)? The clutch spring and clutch sleeve spring both look intact. My suspicions are now leaning towards the shuttle pin inside the axle (and I assume there must be a little spring in there as well?) having got jammed in such a way that the clutch is being forced back towards the driver. Until I get the ball ring unscrewed I won't be able to tell. Are the axle guts serviceable at all, or do I just buy a new axle assembly if it comes to that?

What is the purpose of the clutch sleeve and the little clutch sleeve spring, by the way? I'm not fully understanding the interplay of forces inside the hub yet.
I'll be interested to see what you determine as the cause myself. Could be a fractured sun gear or something else.
The clutch sleeve serves as a seat for the clutch spring. The clutch spring is necessary because both 1st and second gears rely on retraction of the ring gear pawls. 3 speed hubs do not need or have this spring. The spring enables the clutch to retract enough to retract the pawls in 2nd, and then compresses to keep the clutch in the same position in 1st.
Dan Burkhart is offline  
Old 06-17-15, 02:05 PM
  #14  
Chesterton
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 189

Bikes: Pashley Roadster Sovereign, Cycles Toussaint Velo Routier, Yuba Mundo, Raleigh Sports (1970)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 21 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Dan Burkhart View Post
The clutch sleeve serves as a seat for the clutch spring. The clutch spring is necessary because both 1st and second gears rely on retraction of the ring gear pawls. 3 speed hubs do not need or have this spring. The spring enables the clutch to retract enough to retract the pawls in 2nd, and then compresses to keep the clutch in the same position in 1st.
Maybe this will make more sense when I get the axle out and can see how the indicator spindle connects to the clutch. When you pull on the cable, doesn't it pull the clutch? How can it remain in the same position if the cable is moving?
Chesterton is offline  
Old 06-17-15, 07:18 PM
  #15  
Dan Burkhart 
Senior member
 
Dan Burkhart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Oakville Ontario
Posts: 7,811
Mentioned: 23 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 790 Post(s)
Liked 382 Times in 217 Posts
Originally Posted by Chesterton View Post
Maybe this will make more sense when I get the axle out and can see how the indicator spindle connects to the clutch. When you pull on the cable, doesn't it pull the clutch? How can it remain in the same position if the cable is moving?
Yes, the indicator pulls the clutch, by means of a shift key that pushes on the clutch sleeve. It is not directly connected if that's what you're thinking.
Dan Burkhart is offline  
Old 06-17-15, 09:51 PM
  #16  
Chesterton
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 189

Bikes: Pashley Roadster Sovereign, Cycles Toussaint Velo Routier, Yuba Mundo, Raleigh Sports (1970)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 21 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
"The things we cherish are small indeed / So much the larger the need." - They Might Be Giants

All right, I finally got the ball ring loose using a steel punch (all they had at Home Depot) and a hammer. It took a while! And after breaking down the hub completely, this is what the culprit was:



I think Dan was right in an earlier thread when he warned that using the wrong shifter was doing damage to the hub. One of the locking balls has cracked in half, and I believe that was what was jamming the gear selector key inside the axle. In addition, the smaller planet pinions look pretty awful. I've never seen these in person before, but I'm guessing they aren't supposed to look like that!

On the bright side, the sun pinions look fine, as do the clutch, springs, gear teeth, pawls, etc.

So, I guess I will be placing a nice little order with SJS Cycles in England. The planetary cage circlip looks really bent out of shape now. I guess I should buy a replacement to be safe (maybe I'll try with the original first and see how well it bends back).

Now, reassembly questions:

How well do I need to clean up the existing grease before regreasing and reassembling? Especially if I use authentic Sturmey-Archer grease?

Is it possible to clean up the hub bearings in the driver and the hub shell? Are they removable and replaceable? They seem really tucked away in there and the best I'll be able to do is wipe them off and slather in new grease.

How tight does the ball ring have to go back on? A few good taps with the hammer and punch so it can't be unscrewed by hand? Will the braking forces tend to tighten it in the hub shell over time?

Unfortunately, I got so excited about successfully unscrewing the ring that I forgot to mark the threading position of the double-threaded ring. A lot of people say this doesn't seem to be an actual problem in practice. Here's hoping?

Dan, are you sure the Sprinter shifter (Sturmey Archer SLS-5B Sprinter Thumbshifter - £16.99) is compatible with the X-RD5? Is there a technical spec somewhere that gives the pull lengths? I'd hate to buy new planet pinions only to mess them up again with the wrong shifter.
Chesterton is offline  
Old 06-17-15, 10:53 PM
  #17  
GamblerGORD53
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Elevation 666m Edmonton Canada
Posts: 1,937

Bikes: 2013 Custom SA5w / Rohloff Tourster

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 890 Post(s)
Liked 147 Times in 118 Posts
Good work Chesterton. I have the newer XL-RD5w, which also was on the limp until I fixed it just 2 days ago also.
Mine was also having the key inside jamming, different than the ball lock. Mine has two nubs that I sanded off the corners a bit. My weak spring was also out of shape/size that buggered the clutch position. I think you should also order one of these springs, they are very dainty. I bought the shell spanner which works great with a glove. They say just clean the threads and I just tighten it a bit. Pedaling will tighten it.

I actually oiled mine inside shortly after using it a few times. It worked far better after. I still used grease for the bearings. It does however cause problems if it leakes into the drum brake.

PS -- I just love how mine puts the old deraillers to shame. I broke my speed records with it. 46/18T works best for me.
My Rohloff has 6 low gears for hills but the SA is 5 or 10% faster.

Last edited by GamblerGORD53; 06-17-15 at 10:57 PM.
GamblerGORD53 is offline  
Old 06-17-15, 11:40 PM
  #18  
Chesterton
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 189

Bikes: Pashley Roadster Sovereign, Cycles Toussaint Velo Routier, Yuba Mundo, Raleigh Sports (1970)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 21 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Looks like SJS doesn't carry the planet pinions, although they stock everything else I need. It's always something, isn't it! Hopefully I can source the planets from somewhere - otherwise I'm kind of stuck.

It looks like that Sprinter shifter will work for the X-RD5. I can't find any reference to its part number in any S-A technical spec, but the Sprinter and Summit hub part lists specify the exact same Orion (rapidfire), twist, and standard plastic thumb shifter part numbers. So if this metal thumb shifter was made for the Sprinter, it ought to draw the same length of cable as the other ones which were also used by the Summit hub.
Chesterton is offline  
Old 06-18-15, 05:07 AM
  #19  
Dan Burkhart 
Senior member
 
Dan Burkhart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Oakville Ontario
Posts: 7,811
Mentioned: 23 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 790 Post(s)
Liked 382 Times in 217 Posts
Originally Posted by Chesterton View Post
Looks like SJS doesn't carry the planet pinions, although they stock everything else I need. It's always something, isn't it! Hopefully I can source the planets from somewhere - otherwise I'm kind of stuck.

It looks like that Sprinter shifter will work for the X-RD5. I can't find any reference to its part number in any S-A technical spec, but the Sprinter and Summit hub part lists specify the exact same Orion (rapidfire), twist, and standard plastic thumb shifter part numbers. So if this metal thumb shifter was made for the Sprinter, it ought to draw the same length of cable as the other ones which were also used by the Summit hub.
The part number for those planet pinions is HSA 451. United Bicycle Supply shows them in stock on their web page.
United Bicycle Supply Hub Parts Sturmey Archer
Check with local shops to see if any of them have an account with them.
The locking balls are 5/32 bearing balls, those should not be hard to source.
The shifter you are looking at should be compatible.
I would thoroughly remove and clean everything including the bearings. There are lots of little metal bits floating around in there judging by the look of those chipped teeth.
I get at the bearings by using a slide hammer bearing puller to pull the cap out. You could pry it out, but it would be easy to damage this way.
Dan Burkhart is offline  
Old 06-18-15, 08:33 AM
  #20  
Chesterton
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 189

Bikes: Pashley Roadster Sovereign, Cycles Toussaint Velo Routier, Yuba Mundo, Raleigh Sports (1970)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 21 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Dan Burkhart View Post
The part number for those planet pinions is HSA 451. United Bicycle Supply shows them in stock on their web page.
United Bicycle Supply Hub Parts Sturmey Archer
Check with local shops to see if any of them have an account with them.
The locking balls are 5/32 bearing balls, those should not be hard to source.
The shifter you are looking at should be compatible.
I would thoroughly remove and clean everything including the bearings. There are lots of little metal bits floating around in there judging by the look of those chipped teeth.
I get at the bearings by using a slide hammer bearing puller to pull the cap out. You could pry it out, but it would be easy to damage this way.
I did see late last night that UBS stocks the pinions. I will make some calls. I already have 5/32" bearing balls.

I'm thinking it might be easiest to just pry out the dust caps and replace the bearing rings and get new dust caps. For the cost of a bearing puller I could just buy a whole new hub!

One last question: What is the bottom of the clutch supposed to look like? I.e., what kind of wear should I be looking for? The three curved cutouts that lock with the planet pins seem a little irregular, but I don't know if that's just a manufacturing issue or if they have been rounded off over time because the clutch was not fully engaged. (I can try to post a photo tonight.)
Chesterton is offline  
Old 06-18-15, 08:31 PM
  #21  
Chesterton
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 189

Bikes: Pashley Roadster Sovereign, Cycles Toussaint Velo Routier, Yuba Mundo, Raleigh Sports (1970)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 21 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Here's the bottom of the clutch. Do those notches look OK?

Chesterton is offline  
Old 06-18-15, 08:57 PM
  #22  
Dan Burkhart 
Senior member
 
Dan Burkhart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Oakville Ontario
Posts: 7,811
Mentioned: 23 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 790 Post(s)
Liked 382 Times in 217 Posts
Originally Posted by Chesterton View Post
Here's the bottom of the clutch. Do those notches look OK?

It looks to me like it has wear consistent with slipping off the pins under torque.What kind of shape are the planet pins in where it engages? If they show wear as well, positive engagement will be tenuous.
Dan Burkhart is offline  
Old 06-18-15, 09:13 PM
  #23  
Chesterton
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 189

Bikes: Pashley Roadster Sovereign, Cycles Toussaint Velo Routier, Yuba Mundo, Raleigh Sports (1970)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 21 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Dan Burkhart View Post
It looks to me like it has wear consistent with slipping off the pins under torque.What kind of shape are the planet pins in where it engages? If they show wear as well, positive engagement will be tenuous.
I think the pins look fine overall. The cell phone picture with flash makes the marring look much worse than it is around the edges of the heads. It's barely visible under normal light, but running a thumbnail around them you can definitely feel that they are "scratchy".

Would you suggest I replace the clutch now? Or give it a chance and see how it goes and replace it later if necessary?

Chesterton is offline  
Old 06-18-15, 09:17 PM
  #24  
Chesterton
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 189

Bikes: Pashley Roadster Sovereign, Cycles Toussaint Velo Routier, Yuba Mundo, Raleigh Sports (1970)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 21 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I have to say, though, that looking at the bottom of the clutch on this page - Sturmey Archer Sliding Clutch HSA485 - £9.99 - even brand-new the notches look kind of irregular.
Chesterton is offline  
Old 06-18-15, 11:13 PM
  #25  
GamblerGORD53
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Elevation 666m Edmonton Canada
Posts: 1,937

Bikes: 2013 Custom SA5w / Rohloff Tourster

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 890 Post(s)
Liked 147 Times in 118 Posts
I think the whole hub is toast.
GamblerGORD53 is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.