JonathanGennick 

I routinely patch tubes using Park Tool's little patch kit. My patches hold, so no issues there. But those orange borders, I routinely have trouble in getting those orange borders to stick and hold, and that leads to a lot of fiddling when it comes to peeling back the Saran-Wrap-like backing after a patch is applied.

Pretty sure I am spreading the glue around enough. I do wait for the glue to be tacky. Is there something different about the borders on those patches that would cause them not to stick down? Do I just need to wait longer before pulling back that thin backing?

My patches always hold, so there is that at least.

FBinNY 

The "glue" isn't glue. It's a vulcanizing agent, which work with what's on the patch, sort of like a 2 part glue or epoxy. For it to work correctly to make a secure permanent bond, you have to let it dry completely before applying the patch. No blowing on it for the impatient because the water vapor in your breath can be a problem.

Once the patch is applier, you'll want to stitch it down. They make a specific tool for the job which is basically a wheel on a stick.

The purpose is to apply concentrated pressure to force the patch down into the tube so they bond as one. You don't need the tool, and can use the rim of a glass rocking it back and forth working around until you've stitched the entire patch down, especially the edges. Then WAIT a few minutes before removing the celophane, working from the center outward (it should be pre-split to make it easier to start in the middle).

BTW- the time involved in doing a proper permanent patch is why I carry a apsre tube rather than do a field repair. If you prefer field repairs, use glueless patches, then if necessary make a permanent repair at home.

JonathanGennick 

Thanks FB. I do understand that the glue is not really glue. I've never seen that tool before. Usually I just press firmly w/my fingers and rub back and forth.

The Park Tool patches do not have their celophane split down the center. I suppose I could hit it with a razor knife.

It's possible I rush the drying process. I'm sure I do sometimes. Did two patches back-to-back the other day. Waited longer for the glue to dry on the second one and had less trouble with those pesky orange edges.

Number400

You are supposed to leave the cellophane on the patch after it is applied. It prevents the problem of the edges peeling up and also serves to keep the patch from sticking to the tire. I used to peel it off too but then I read the instructions https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...er-tube-repair

JonathanGennick 

Hah! I see that now. Well. That'd certainly explain my troubles.

Because as I pointed out, it's not like my patches ever leak or fail.

The instructions on the kit itself do not say to leave the cellophane in place. Maybe Park should update their packaging.

This is good knowledge, because there are some friends whom I want to teach how to patch.

I feel less ignorant now, but a bit embarrassed that I did not know about leaving the cellophane on all this time. Ouch.

corrado33

Wow... I never knew that... Well, that'll sure make patching tires easier. Those little cellophane parts are a pain to get off, now I don't have to!

Bill Kapaun

I've always left the cellophane on the current patch because of the tendency to pull the patch off.
I remove it when doing the next patch.

You can find a similar tool to what FBinNY posted in window screen repair kits.
In the field, I use the edge of a quarter, kind of working from the center of the patch to the edges in a somewhat spiral path.

Part of your problem may possibly be not buffing/applying glue to a large enough area, or centering the patch well over the glue.

JonathanGennick 

Does anyone make the bike-specific version? I took a fast look on the Universal Cycles site and didn't see anything like it listed for sale.

What is the name of the tool? I'm curious now.

Bill Kapaun

It's a patching tool.
Look at an auto parts store in the tire repair section.

dsbrantjr

One type is called a "spline roller" used for repairing window screens and you can get them at hardware or home centers. I suppose auto parts stores would have something similar for tire patches. I just use the edge of a coin or the edge of an open-end wrench on the road.

Jicafold

On a similar note, do you have to use the patches with the vulcanizing agent or can you just use a piece cut from an old innertube and use the vulcanizer on both halfes and press it together?

rm -rf

Do you have any instructions on using glueless patches? I've carried them in case I used up my tube, but never had any luck getting them to hold pressure when I tried a test patch at home. I've tried them 2 or 3 times and they all leaked. I need to get this to work!

~~~

I patch at home with a fresh patch kit in a box, and wait until I have 3 or 4 tubes to patch all at once. That uses up a tube of glue.

Before roughing the tube, I use a silver sharpie pen to make a cross centered on the hole, leaving the center of the cross unmarked. It makes it easy for me to center the patch. I also use the silver pen to mark an arrow by the valve on new tubes and install them on the wheel so that's the direction of travel. I can find the hole, then know which direction to go on the tire to look for the glass/wire/thorn; the tire label is lined up with the valve hole.

I've been clamping the patch for a few hours or overnight, but it sounds like that isn't really necessary.

Sometimes my orange edges come loose, but the patch still works. I'll try using the base of a glass (instead of using the corner of the plastic patch box) and work on the edges more.

FBinNY 

I called the process stitching, and the tool is a stitcher. There's no bike version because a patch is a patch. I linked to NAPA because that came up first, but you'll find stitchers anyplace that sells tire repair stuff.

BTW- I found it interesting that Park says to leave the cellophane in place, because Rema is equally adamant that it hould be removed to allow the patch to cure completely. Go figure.

JonathanGennick 

Thanks for that link. I might go ahead and order one of those stitchers.

Who is Rema?

Matariki

I use the rounded edge of a tire iron to burnish down the edges - works great. Also, I have always removed the cellophane, not because I was or wasn't following directions, but because it just seemed that the split down the middle (Rema patch) implied that you were supposed to. I typically powder the new patch to prevent issues between it and the tire.

FBinNY 

Rema tiptop has been the worldwide dominant player in the field for almost a century. These days, bicycle related products represent the tiniest fraction of their business, but they haven't abandoned the category. For years, they were the only source for quality feather edged patches in the USA.

10 Wheels

Rema Patches - Outside Outfitters

FBinNY 

Make your own. Fun DIY project for the kids who hang around your garage.

Needed
6" 3/4" or 1" dowel or bar of some kind.
1 quarter or similar coin of your choice
1 screw and nut or rivet.
Drill and hacksaw.

Saw a slot to accommodate the quarter into the dowel
drill the end of the handle, and center of the quarter (centering in the quarter needs to be decent, but not perfect)
Assemble with screw and nut, then stitch away. The DIY tool even has serrated edges for better action.

davidad

It's important to remove the mold release on the tube before you apply the glue. I usually repair at home so I sand and use acetone to clean the tube before allying the cement. I use an old socket to burnish the patch after the installation.

zebede

+1

JonathanGennick 

Thanks to FB's good advice, and also to a coffee cup from my wife's favorite set of dishes, my neighbor and young friend made his first patch yesterday. Gratuitous photos below...

His patch held. The orange ring stuck down and stayed stuck down. My own last two patches failed. The student is better than the teacher.

FBinNY 

let's be clear. I suggested using the rim on a cup, but not from a favorite set. Next time swipe one that she uses when serving on the patio, or whatever. Otherwise you'll never hear the end of it when she serves the 8th guest coffee in an unmatched cup.

JonathanGennick 

LOL! I know it.

Sometimes I live on the edge.

Homebrew01

Patching skinny 23mm tubes is a pain because the patch does not follow the tight curve of the tube.
I put the patched area in a vise to keep the tube & patch flat while it cures.

Crankycrank

If you have some tire levers with you just use the smooth curved end as a stitching tool, works fine. Leaving the plastic on also helps to keep the patch from sticking to the tire from any overlap of vulcanizing fluid. It's not really all that important to leave it on or take it off as long as you rub some talcum powder or dirt over the area if your out on the road to prevent sticking. To remove the plastic, fold the patch in half after it's applied which usually will cause a tear and just peel it back from the center of the patch rather than the edges. If it doesn't tear rub it a little with the sandpaper you have with your patch kit.