Protecting drivetrain from rain
 

Hey guys,

I've been thinking of ways to protect the sprockets and chain on my bike from rain and subsequently corrosion and rust. Every time it rains, I clean and re-lube the chain to stop it from getting rusty. However this is becoming very tiresome.

I was thinking about designing some sort of plastic cover, I've attached a concept picture of it.

Is there any reason why they are not made from stainless steel? If they were, they would not rust :/

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=462979

There are stainless chains available for single-speed/internal gear bikes.
Sure, they might not rust, but they need regular lubes anyhow not to wear out too soon.
These can also be fitted with full-cover chaincases. Like your idea, only smaller.
For frequently used external gear bikes, particularly modern ones with 9/10/11 rear sprockets, "pure" mechanical wear will age the parts so fast that keeping them rust-free until elongation forces a replacement isn't much of a challenge. The lube they need for internal friction control will also do well enough to keep the rust away.
Sprocket rust is overwhelmingly a visual and not a functional issue.

Chain cases are available but are bulky, heavy and a PITA to adjust and to remove when a wheel change or derailleur adjustment is needed. There are also nickel-plated chains which resist rusting. Just keep your chain lubed and fairly clean, which has benefits beyond rust mitigation, and don't sweat some superficial rust.

Stainless steels tend to be softer, wear faster and are more prone to galling than run-of-the-mill carbon steel and command a premium price to boot.

If you want to protect your drivetrain, start with full-coverage fenders, long mud flaps, and road tires (non-knobbies, at least). Fully enclosed chain cases (like your drawing) don't work with derailleurs, btw.

Beyond fenders, I've found the best rust preventative is a dry rag after a rainy ride.

Chain cases are already made for IGH. I dont get the trying to do it with a Derailleur bike.

Hebie Chain glider is Made in self lubricating Plastics, weighs less , For Alfine and Rohloff Hubs..

Rust? Too much cleaning. Once a week, put the bike on a stand and run the chain backwards through a rag, relube, 10-20 drops. And sometimes after it gets wet.

http://www.bikeforums.net/attachment...p;d=1436260021

I would rather ride a rusty chain.

Computer people get paid more than bike Mechanics , if working on your bike is too dirty a Job, you can Hire the help.

Of course, there's the IGH and belt drive. Clean, simple and very water resistant. And there's the fix gear. Rust, even a lot, won't stop a fix gear. In my ice, snow and salt days, I ran a fix gear that saw nearly no attention all winter. Frozen links? Slide the wheel forward to get the proper sack and ride. Three frozen links? I'll oil the chain when I get home.

Ben

If riding in full-on rain were a regular thing for me, I'd spray my drivetrain with WD-40 before heading out. It's supposed to displace water, right?

Why stop at just the drive train? A full fairing will protect the whole bike and also add an aero advantage.

Easier said than done. You have to allow side-to-side clearances for all of the moving parts. That's not easy to do even with a relatively simple chain guard. Next is actually keeping the chain and related parts actually clean and dry. Even your relatively simple drawing has openings. Water is still going to get in there, it's just going to be harder to clean and re-lube when it does.

if it is too tiresome, you must be doing it wrong....unless something that takes maybe 5 minutes of time is too tiresome. I do not see the problem you are solving as being worth the problem you would be creating.

Stop riding in the rain..?