DaveLeeNC

I have a 'nice' 97'ish vintage Bianchi EL-OS Nivacrom steel bike that from 1999 (maybe 3K miles at that point) to last summer, was in my attic in hibernation. I started riding again at that point (after some LBS work) and last fall upgraded the wheels and the 8sp Chorus to 2014 Chorus. I have been riding since then and can see me averaging 150 to 200 miles weekly in the long term (might or might not shift to indoor work in the winter which would NOT be on this bike/trainer). I just like this bike and am an N=1 kind of guy. Pic attached, and everything but the wheels, groupset, seatpost and saddle are original, FWIW. I am 66 years old and my expectation is that this will be my last bike (more upgrades - different question).

So what do you do to best be able to assure that 'this thing will last' as we could be talking a lot of miles here. All that I do right now

1) I keep my chain lubed and 'watch the wear'
2) I periodically drop a bit of lube in various moving parts (mostly associated with shifting)
3) I won't say that I never ride in the rain, but I tend to avoid that and always do a chain clean/re-lube when I get caught in the wet stuff
4) Just keep the grit off
5) Not sure this matters to my question, but most of my riding is on a training wheel/tire setup (older pretty bomb proof Mavic 32sp rims and Gatorskins).
6) The usual stuff of adjustments, brake pad monitoring, etc.
7) Assuming that I can keep myself in control, my weight is typically in the 150's so should not overly stress this frame. The roads that I ride are typically asphalt in decent repair.

Other than an annual full LBS checkup here, what else should I be doing? I am not a complete mechanical klutz, but close.

Thanks.

dave

JerrySTL

Since it's steel, I'd recommend using some J.P. Weigles Bicycle Frame Saver Rust Inhibitor. You can buy it at Amazon.com.

tarwheel 

The most important thing you can do is keep the frame clean and dry it off after riding in rain. Salt from sweat is the biggest enemy of steel frames, IMHO, and it tends to collect in the same places -- under the top tube, along cable guides, etc. Frame saver is a good precaution but water is unlikely to get inside the tubes unless you ride in the rain. If you get caught in rain, particularly gully washers, it's a good idea to remove the seat post and hang the bike upside down so water can drain out (if you frame doesn't have drain holes in the bottom bracket).

bradtx

Dave, A couple of years ago I bought a partial bike in similar condition to yours; low mileage and stored for an extended period of time. An overhaul of the hubs and head set took care of the dried out grease and some minor wheel truing were all that was needed (along with the usual consumables) to make it road worthy again. I suspect that your LBS has already done this, but I'd double check to be sure.

I'm in a humid area and I haven't had rust problems with the family's steel bikes, but the Frame Saver maybe a good idea for you, even if just for peace of mind. Otherwise the inspections you're doing should be all that's really needed.

Brad

PS Since you brought up the subject of "training wheels". I've back-to-back tested a spare wheel set pigeon holed for a project bike that could be considered training wheels and the lighter wheel set that was original to my bike and there is really not that much difference. Actually no difference after a mile or so. The difference in weight is about 1.5 lb.

TheManShow

That bike looks like it gets lots of TLC.

SkyDog75

Since you don't plan to ride in the rain (much), I don't think the rust inhibitor is necessary. Just make sure water doesn't collect in the frame as mentioned above. Personally, I tend to apply a rust inhibitor if I tear down a bike to the frame and fork -- sort of a "might as well do it while it's convenient to do so" kind of thing. If you choose to apply a rust inhibitor, AMSOIL Heavy Duty Metal Protector is another option that can probably be sourced locally if you can't find J.P. Weigle's Frame Saver. (Rumor has it they're the same thing.)

Lube is probably the one thing I'd stress. Make sure any loose bearings (e.g. headset) have fresh grease, keep the chain lubed, and replace consumables as need be. Other than that, just keep pedaling and address fluky stuff as it arises. Do so, and this bike will easily outlive both of us.

REALLY pretty bike, by the way. Enjoy it!

alcjphil

The title of your question is a little misleading. If the bike only had 3,000 miles on it before you stored it away and you have only been back out riding it for a year, I would say that your bike has very low mileage.Good steel frames can last a very long time, I rode my 1973 Raleigh Professional until 2001 when I crashed it in a race, otherwise I might still be riding it. By the time I crashed it, it probably had close to 50,000 miles on it, maybe more. Even with that mileage I had no qualms about racing it, even won a national time trial championship on it in 1999

DaveLeeNC

Thanks to all for the very helpful comments.

BTW, I did add a clarification to the original question - for now and the foreseeable future I will be riding 150 to 200 miles weekly (I failed to define the timeframe earlier).

dave

noglider 

I think you're already doing what you should be doing.

alcjphil

At your higher estimate, you will be doing just over 10,000 miles per year, which is a lot. Going by my old Raleigh, you would have at least 5 years before you might start to think that racing might not be a good idea. But do you ever plan to ride that competitively? if not, your bike probably has many more years than that before you should be thinking about retirement of the frame. I think that you will wear out your components before you wear out that frame

DaveLeeNC

My endurance background is running and I still take a 'running view' of cycling. And that is really more of a TT perspective vs. what road racing really is. So my 'goal stuff' is more built around personal performance targets of various kinds and I recently started into Strava and that is kind of fun.

Of course given that perspective I should be riding a totally different bike. But I like this bike so that is what I ride and have to real inclinations to change that. Since I hit age 66 this year, I may be what wears out first :-)

dave

habilis

You and I have some things in common: age, weight, enthusiasm about bikes. Unfortunately, I don't own a bike as beautiful as yours. Enjoy it in good health!

fietsbob

J.P. Weigles Bicycle Frame Saver Rust Inhibitor mentioned above, requires you to tear the bike down entirely

so you can get it to cover everywhere inside of all the frame tubes , by flipping the frame over in all sorts of directions.
while its uncured.

Humid Warm outside to air Conditioned inside, causes the moisture to condense inside and out..

DaveLeeNC

Hopefully the headset adjustment on your Premio is better than the one in this picture

dave

HillRider

I'm a firm believer in Frame Saver/Amsoil HDMP for any steel frame but that's just my conservatism. About the only thing the bike you picture will need is attention to the chrome fork blades and stays. Keep them well waxed particularly if they get wet or are (horrors) exposed to snow/salt. Otherwise, your maintenance schedule looks fine.