Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

tear in seat tube: am i crazy to ride it?

Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

tear in seat tube: am i crazy to ride it?

Old 07-17-15, 11:21 AM
  #1  
arthurmiller
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
tear in seat tube: am i crazy to ride it?

Hi guys.
honestly how dangerous is it to ride this?

https://imageshack.us/i/pcK0LLXlj
https://imageshack.us/i/idFSMfG7j

I mean, what can happen? Can it break suddenly and I can get seriously hurt or it will slowly break apart?
I confess I've ridden the bike for a month now. I've no idea how long for the tears have been there, probably a lot of time.
Can I still ride it if I don't go fast and check every time I ride if the tear worsens? I am 150 lbs and don't ride the bike offstreet.
For you, it might be a senseless question (and a stupid risk) but I am just a poor student and I really don't have the money to buy a new one if i can ride this for a few months.

Thanks!
arthurmiller is offline  
Old 07-17-15, 11:23 AM
  #2  
FBinNY 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 35,964

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 125 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4366 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 32 Times in 31 Posts
Is there a way to post the photo here? I can't see it in Imageshack, and don't feel like joining.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Old 07-17-15, 11:41 AM
  #3  
geehue
Senior Member
 
geehue's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 118

Bikes: Surly Cross-Check, Rescued early 1990s Frankenbike (Univega frame; mix of found Centaur and Daytona parts); mid-1990s Casati, Linus Gaston

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
I do not think that is safe to ride any more. Even if your frame continues to deteriorate slowly instead of snapping catastrophically, your seatpost is being supported and held in place by only the seatpost bolt (which itself looks like it might be rusting out a bit). Riding will flex that seatpost, and eventually either it or the bolt will fail ... that will hurt a lot.
geehue is offline  
Old 07-17-15, 11:52 AM
  #4  
DiabloScott
It's MY mountain
 
DiabloScott's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Mt.Diablo
Posts: 9,252

Bikes: Klein, Merckx, Trek

Mentioned: 61 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2918 Post(s)
Liked 871 Times in 507 Posts
Why not purposefully TRY to destroy it? Maybe hold it upside down and drop it on the saddle a couple times... or hold it sideways and try to bend the seat tube with your foot. If it breaks then you know it was unsafe to ride and you'll be glad you weren't riding it when it would have happened. If it doesn't break or get any worse, then you'll have a little more confidence that it'll last a while longer under normal use.

I can't imagine how poor I'd have to be to ride that bike in that condition though... my sympathies.
DiabloScott is offline  
Old 07-17-15, 11:57 AM
  #5  
practical
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Middelbury, Vermont
Posts: 1,105

Bikes: Giant Escape 1

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 136 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times in 2 Posts
What about putting a couple of c-clamps around it? Go the hardware store and see what's available.
practical is offline  
Old 07-17-15, 11:59 AM
  #6  
Little Darwin
The Improbable Bulk
 
Little Darwin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Wilkes-Barre, PA
Posts: 8,401

Bikes: Many

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times in 6 Posts
If you simply must ride that, I would suggest going to the local hardware or auto parts store and getting 4 or 5 hose clamps of the appropriate size to add some lateral support.



But, personally, even with that precaution, it is not structurally sound, so I would start looking for a used frame or used bike to replace it. WHere are you located, and what size frame are you using? If close to WB, I may have something available.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
hoseClamp.jpg (15.8 KB, 1 views)
__________________
Slow Ride Cyclists of NEPA

People do not seem to realize that their opinion of the world is also a confession of character.
- Ralph Waldo Emerson
Little Darwin is offline  
Old 07-17-15, 12:03 PM
  #7  
FBinNY 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 35,964

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 125 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4366 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 32 Times in 31 Posts
It seems that someone burst the seat tube by ramming an overly fat post down into it. For all practical purposes the bike is toast, since there's no economical fix.

But, if you have no dough and need to buy yourself a bit of time you might jerry-rig something towards that end. I'd buy 3-4 hose clamps, and secure them tightly around the affected area, to buttress the tube and prevent the split from opening more.

It's not an ideal repair by any means, but will be OK for a while until you can scout something up. Odds are that it will continue to degrade, but probably not fail in a way to injure you, though you'll be stranded. So, no hard riding, and don't go far from home.

Consider this a short term patch, and start looking for a way to replace this bike ASAP.

EDIT- seems that two of us had the same idea, but Little Darwin types faster.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Old 07-17-15, 12:44 PM
  #8  
CliffordK
Senior Member
 
CliffordK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 25,772
Mentioned: 205 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13959 Post(s)
Liked 2,154 Times in 1,609 Posts
What is the brand and model of the frame?
Is that a carbon fiber seat tube, and steel lugs? Most odd.

What caused the initial damage? Front and rear? An attempt to hack out a seat post?

I agree with others, I'd probably permanently retire the frame.

How long is your seatpost? If I was to use the frame, I'd find a seatpost that extended considerably below the damaged section of the frame.

If that is carbon fiber, you could either try to replace the whole tube, or try a spot repair, cleaning up the ragged area, apply a patch, then wrap. It can't be much worse than one sees with hemp wrapped bamboo.
CliffordK is offline  
Old 07-17-15, 01:56 PM
  #9  
spdracr39
Senior Member
 
spdracr39's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Cabot, Arkansas
Posts: 1,538

Bikes: Lynskey Twisted Helix Di2 Ti, 1987 Orbea steel single speed/fixie, Orbea Avant M30, Trek Fuel EX9.8 29, Trek Madone 5 series, Specialized Epic Carbon Comp 29er, Trek 7.1F

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
That frame doesn't look like it is worth the risk to ride get something else and move on.
spdracr39 is offline  
Old 07-17-15, 02:03 PM
  #10  
FBinNY 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 35,964

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 125 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4366 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 32 Times in 31 Posts
Originally Posted by CliffordK View Post
What is the brand and model of the frame?
Is that a carbon fiber seat tube, and steel lugs? Most odd.....
Take a closer look, it's a POS steel frame, and the only carbon around is in the steel.

I suspect that someone intentionally split it to fit the wrong post, or more likely, rammed a fat post in splitting it in the process. I've seen this kind of force split in the rear but this is the first time I've seen it in front.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Old 07-17-15, 02:09 PM
  #11  
lostarchitect 
incazzare.
 
lostarchitect's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Catskills/Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 6,961

Bikes: See sig

Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 40 Post(s)
Liked 40 Times in 25 Posts
__________________
1964 JRJ (Bob Jackson), 1973 Wes Mason, 1974 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1986 Schwinn High Sierra, 2000ish Colian (Colin Laing), 2011 Dick Chafe, 2013 Velo Orange Pass Hunter
lostarchitect is offline  
Old 07-17-15, 02:21 PM
  #12  
cale
Senior Member
 
cale's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Seattle
Posts: 3,250

Bikes: Kuota Ksano. Litespeed T5 gravel - brilliant!

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
It would be super easy to braze in a replacement tube. Or you could just ride it like it is. I'm a big fan of hose clamps, though if you wanted something "cleaner" (hard to imagine but anyway) there's also the FD-hanger-as-a-clamp option.

cale is offline  
Old 07-17-15, 02:22 PM
  #13  
CliffordK
Senior Member
 
CliffordK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 25,772
Mentioned: 205 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13959 Post(s)
Liked 2,154 Times in 1,609 Posts
Originally Posted by FBinNY View Post
Take a closer look, it's a POS steel frame, and the only carbon around is in the steel.

I suspect that someone intentionally split it to fit the wrong post, or more likely, rammed a fat post in splitting it in the process. I've seen this kind of force split in the rear but this is the first time I've seen it in front.
That is one ragged cut... I think some of the 3-D scratching may be into the seat post too.

It looks to me like someone took a chainsaw to it.

I doubt there is much natural crack propagation, although the ragged cut does allow for that to start.

Anyway, a super-long seat post, and a bunch of pipe clamps might stabilize it....
But one is still left with the question of WHY use it, and WHY was the frame damaged like this?:
CliffordK is offline  
Old 07-17-15, 02:32 PM
  #14  
FBinNY 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 35,964

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 125 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4366 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 32 Times in 31 Posts
Originally Posted by CliffordK View Post
....
Anyway, a super-long seat post, and a bunch of pipe clamps might stabilize it....
But one is still left with the question of WHY use it, and WHY was the frame damaged like this?:
Who know why it was broken this way, but the OP answered why he wants to ride it --- no dough to replace right now.

That's a valid reason, and people often have to make do with less than ideal (far less) because it's still better than nothing at all. To that end, here's a possibly stronger, cheaper fix if the OP has or has a friend with, a power drill.

Buy 2 1/4" bolt long enough to reach all the way across the tube. Drill a pair of holes, one above the bottom of the split, and the other closer to the seat lug. Fit the bolts with washers under the heads and tighten well. Finish by sawing and/or filing smooth enough that nothing catches. That should buy enough time to find a replacement at a thrift store or garage sale.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Old 07-17-15, 05:19 PM
  #15  
fastk9dad
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Location: Location:
Posts: 135

Bikes: Specialized Tricross, Cannondale CAAD10

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 14 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by FBinNY View Post
It seems that someone burst the seat tube by ramming an overly fat post down into it.
I think you are right. To my eyes the fat post is the one that's currently in it.
fastk9dad is offline  
Old 07-17-15, 06:01 PM
  #16  
CliffordK
Senior Member
 
CliffordK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 25,772
Mentioned: 205 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13959 Post(s)
Liked 2,154 Times in 1,609 Posts
I almost lost access to the images... Perhaps one can only view them once or twice

Anyway, here they are.

Attached Images
File Type: jpg
BrokenSeatTubeRear.jpg (80.6 KB, 52 views)
File Type: jpg
BrokenSeatTubeFront.jpg (61.4 KB, 47 views)
CliffordK is offline  
Old 07-17-15, 07:23 PM
  #17  
ltxi
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1,719
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 258 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Appreciate the financial dilemma, but.... I wouldn't sit that on a bet.
ltxi is offline  
Old 07-18-15, 07:04 AM
  #18  
arthurmiller
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thank you everyone for your contribution and for not judging my poor choice and poorer finances! You guys are the most down to earth bike experts i've talked to so far!
What caused this damage in the first place is not known to me, I thought that the presence of a tear at the front side meant someone sawed the tube to steal a seat post. But the current seat post is actually slightly fatter than the tube (you can see that the edge of the tube was forcefully stretched) -sorry not an english native speaker- as Fastk9Dad and FBinNY noticed.

Anyway, you made yourself clear about what I should do.
Thanks!
arthurmiller is offline  
Old 07-19-15, 05:25 PM
  #19  
1 Miyata Biker
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Northwest Ohio
Posts: 176

Bikes: Schwinns and Miyatas

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Arthur, I believe what you should do is find a repair shop of some kind that can do some welding/brazing for you real cheap. Remove the seat post and have them weld/braze two halves of a piece of pipe of sufficient length to span the damaged area. Then replace the seat post and start keeping an eye peeled for a frame or entire bike of the proper size to replace this one. I'd hate to see you get hurt on this bike. Look anywhere you feel like someone could have dumped a bike and salvage it to replace yours. Good luck with the project!
1 Miyata Biker is offline  
Old 07-19-15, 05:27 PM
  #20  
CliffordK
Senior Member
 
CliffordK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 25,772
Mentioned: 205 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13959 Post(s)
Liked 2,154 Times in 1,609 Posts
Originally Posted by 1 Miyata Biker View Post
Arthur, I believe what you should do is find a repair shop of some kind that can do some welding/brazing for you real cheap. Remove the seat post and have them weld/braze two halves of a piece of pipe of sufficient length to span the damaged area. Then replace the seat post and start keeping an eye peeled for a frame or entire bike of the proper size to replace this one. I'd hate to see you get hurt on this bike. Look anywhere you feel like someone could have dumped a bike and salvage it to replace yours. Good luck with the project!
Either that, or find a steel seat post. Set the height perfect... and weld/braze in place.
CliffordK is offline  
Old 07-20-15, 06:01 PM
  #21  
1saxman
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: The Old Dominion
Posts: 232

Bikes: Trek 930 (1992), Motobecane Hybrid w/juice brakes, spring fork and Shimano 8-spd hub.

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
Liked 17 Times in 11 Posts
I was thinking of a brace and finally found it - costs about $6 and is a 'Mueller Pipe Repair Clamp'. You can find these at Home Depot, etc. It's a steel 'clamshell' about 6" long with two bolts to squeeze it on the 'pipe'. You'll probably need the 1" or 1 1/4".
1saxman is offline  
Old 07-20-15, 06:04 PM
  #22  
silkey
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 27
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
am I seeing this rip in the front and back of the tube?
silkey is offline  
Old 07-21-15, 04:41 AM
  #23  
AlmostTrick
Tortoise Wins by a Hare!
 
AlmostTrick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Looney Tunes, IL
Posts: 7,385

Bikes: Wabi Special FG, Raleigh Roper, Nashbar AL-1, Miyata One Hundred, '70 Schwinn Lemonator and More!!

Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1539 Post(s)
Liked 905 Times in 488 Posts
Since the seat post is over size, replacing it with a longer one is not an option. In the same diameter it will make the tear worse, and the correct diameter will now be way too loose.

The 'Mueller Pipe Repair Clamp' sounds interesting, (and cheap enough) I'd at least give it a look, hold it up in place on the tube, and then decide.

Welding a steel seat post in place is interesting except for two problems. Finding the proper size post, and finding a person to weld it for cheap or free.

Actually, I think pulling the existing post out, even if possible, would be a mistake!
AlmostTrick is offline  
Old 07-21-15, 10:53 AM
  #24  
rmfnla
Senior Member
 
rmfnla's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: La La Land (We love it!)
Posts: 6,301

Bikes: Gilmour road, Curtlo road; both steel (of course)

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 271 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times in 5 Posts
I'd love to know who did that in the first place (and how!)...
__________________
Today, I believe my jurisdiction ends here...
rmfnla is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Facanh
Bicycle Mechanics
3
08-06-17 08:22 AM
Ole123
Bicycle Mechanics
7
09-22-15 01:48 PM
bikemig
Bicycle Mechanics
24
07-29-15 06:29 AM
IAMAMRA
Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg)
41
09-29-13 06:31 AM
jonwvara
Framebuilders
4
08-07-10 09:48 AM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.