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help with Cascadia fenders on c.1989 Specialized Hardrock

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help with Cascadia fenders on c.1989 Specialized Hardrock

Old 07-23-15, 11:53 AM
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help with Cascadia fenders on c.1989 Specialized Hardrock

I have a Specialized Hardrock mountain bike from about 1989 (see this thread for pics) and am attempting to mount Planet Bike Cascadia ATB fenders on it. I'm having two problems:
  1. The L-bracket on the front fender is supposed to attach to the top of the fork (where the legs meet the head tube). This is supposed to be accomplished by using a long bolt threaded through holes at the front and back of the fork. However, my fork only has one hole at the front! Am I supposed to use a shorter screw, with a bolt inside the head tube portion of the fork? If so, how am I supposed to tighten it? Otherwise, am I supposed to drill a corresponding hole on the back side of my fork (a scary idea!)?
  2. An L-bracket attached to the rear fender is supposed to screw into the seat stay bridge, where the screw is perpendicular to the seat stay (i.e., tangent to the circumference of the fender). However, my seat stay bridge has a hole for a screw colinear to the seat stay (i.e., aligned along the radius of the wheel). This person drilled a hole through the fender to mount it, but I'm worried I'd screw it up (or that the plastic fenders would crack or something). Should I consider modifying the "rear fender plastic clip" instead (by drilling a hole through it and cutting the L-bracket part off), or just attach the thing with zip ties?
  3. The rear dropouts only have one (threaded) eyelet, and I want to use both fenders and a rack. Should I assume it's okay to just get a longer bolt and attach them both?
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Old 07-24-15, 09:10 PM
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Seriously? 100 views and nobody can help me?
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Old 07-25-15, 05:52 AM
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Here's the only suggestions I would have.

On #1 (front fender), load a shorter bolt with a lock washer in from the inside of the fork tube with threads sticking out. It's going to be finicky to keep that in place and get that L bracket over it. You may try a little plumbers putty or even a bit of grease to hold it in place while you get that L bracket on. Once you do, thread the nut on while pulling out on the bolt (you may have to carefully hold the bolt with needed nose pliers) until the lock washer grabs. That locker washer should be able to apply enough back pressure that you will be able to tighten it down without the bolt spinning. Not sure if that's super clear-ish...but it's what I'd try. Others may have more to offer.

On #2 , I'd attempt modify the plastic bracket and not drill the fender, or attach with zip ties.

On #3 , I would try to mount both fender and rack in the single eyelet with a longer button head bolt. I'd put the rack closest to the frame, so any load transferred better.

You've got a few trial and error things to attempt there, but all seem doable with a quick trip to the hardware store for some different bolt sizes.

This is the stuff I live for in the garage, the little brain teasers to finish out a project. Good luck!

Last edited by hopwheels; 07-25-15 at 05:55 AM.
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Old 07-27-15, 12:30 AM
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My bike has PB Cascadia fenders which the previous owner either drilled or melted a 4mm hole in to attach it to the underside of the seat stay bridge. So yes, it can be done and I don't think there'd be much risk of it splitting.

Also, if you do end up having to drill another hole in the back of the fork crown / steerer tube, I had to do this recently to mount some SKS fenders which attach to the back of the steerer tube, it's not difficult. I just used a small hand drill. It took a long time, though would have been much easier with a bench vice to hold the fork.
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