1995 Bianchi Veloce Campagnolo 8 spd Upgrade
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1995 Bianchi Veloce Campagnolo 8 spd Upgrade
Hello! I have a 1995 Bianchi Veloce (1995 Bianchi Veloce - BikePedia) that needs a new cassette, chain, and chainrings. I am fairly new to Campagnolo parts so I would love some advice to make sure that I am buying the right parts.
The bike is set up as a racing bike, but I would like to make it a bit easier for climbing hills. I am thinking about putting a Campagnolo Veloce Silver PT 10Spd Cset Compact 172.5 34/50 (Campagnolo Veloce Silver Power Torque 10Spd Chainset, Chainsets, CHAINSETS ROAD), but I think I am going to save that upgrade for a later date as it will also require a new bottom bracket.
Right now I am definitely going to get Campagnolo 8 Spd Record Cassette 13-26 (Campagnolo 8 Spd Record Cassette, Cassettes, CASSETTES).
For the chain can I get Campagnolo 9 Spd Record Chain (Campagnolo 9 Spd Record Chain, Chains, CHAINS) to work? It says it is compatible with Campagnolo 8 speed group. Is it? Otherwise, will the KMC X8 (X8.99) 8spd Chain (KMC X8 (X8.99) 8spd Chain, Chains, CHAINS) or KMC X8 (X8.93) 8 Spd Chain (KMC X8 (X8.93) 8 Spd Chain Silver/Grey, Chains, CHAINS) work? What is the difference between the X8.99 and X8.93?
For the chainrings I am looking at TA Chainring Campagnolo 135mm 8/9/10 Spd or Stronglight Dural 135mm Campagnolo 8/9/10 Chainring (TA Chainring Campagnolo 135mm 8/9/10 Spd, CHAINRINGS, CHAINRINGS ROAD, Stronglight Dural 135mm Campagnolo 8/9/10 Chainring, CHAINRINGS, CHAINRINGS ROAD). Is there a significant difference between the two? I also wanted to double check that 135mm is in fact the correct size. What chainrings would give me a more versatile ride?
Sorry for the abundance of questions and links. I greatly appreciate any help and advice as this is my first time replacing parts on a bike. I'm trying to learn and do as much as I can. Thanks!
The bike is set up as a racing bike, but I would like to make it a bit easier for climbing hills. I am thinking about putting a Campagnolo Veloce Silver PT 10Spd Cset Compact 172.5 34/50 (Campagnolo Veloce Silver Power Torque 10Spd Chainset, Chainsets, CHAINSETS ROAD), but I think I am going to save that upgrade for a later date as it will also require a new bottom bracket.
Right now I am definitely going to get Campagnolo 8 Spd Record Cassette 13-26 (Campagnolo 8 Spd Record Cassette, Cassettes, CASSETTES).
For the chain can I get Campagnolo 9 Spd Record Chain (Campagnolo 9 Spd Record Chain, Chains, CHAINS) to work? It says it is compatible with Campagnolo 8 speed group. Is it? Otherwise, will the KMC X8 (X8.99) 8spd Chain (KMC X8 (X8.99) 8spd Chain, Chains, CHAINS) or KMC X8 (X8.93) 8 Spd Chain (KMC X8 (X8.93) 8 Spd Chain Silver/Grey, Chains, CHAINS) work? What is the difference between the X8.99 and X8.93?
For the chainrings I am looking at TA Chainring Campagnolo 135mm 8/9/10 Spd or Stronglight Dural 135mm Campagnolo 8/9/10 Chainring (TA Chainring Campagnolo 135mm 8/9/10 Spd, CHAINRINGS, CHAINRINGS ROAD, Stronglight Dural 135mm Campagnolo 8/9/10 Chainring, CHAINRINGS, CHAINRINGS ROAD). Is there a significant difference between the two? I also wanted to double check that 135mm is in fact the correct size. What chainrings would give me a more versatile ride?
Sorry for the abundance of questions and links. I greatly appreciate any help and advice as this is my first time replacing parts on a bike. I'm trying to learn and do as much as I can. Thanks!
Last edited by Quadruplex; 07-23-15 at 02:19 PM.
#2
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Cassette: looks good.
Chain: just get one of the KMC chains. Offhand, I think the X8.99 has more nickel plating but it really doesn't matter. The Campy chain will be more expensive but not better than the KMC chains.
Chainrings: both of those should be good options. Campy does use some weird proprietary Bolt Circle Diameters, so you have to buy their special stuff... To be sure you can measure using this technique: Sheldon Brown's Bicycle Crank/Chainring Bolt Circle Diameter Crib Sheet
Chain: just get one of the KMC chains. Offhand, I think the X8.99 has more nickel plating but it really doesn't matter. The Campy chain will be more expensive but not better than the KMC chains.
Chainrings: both of those should be good options. Campy does use some weird proprietary Bolt Circle Diameters, so you have to buy their special stuff... To be sure you can measure using this technique: Sheldon Brown's Bicycle Crank/Chainring Bolt Circle Diameter Crib Sheet
#4
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A compact crank like the one in your link is going to be your easiest bet.
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Cool - thanks a lot. If I was going to go for the Veloce Power Torque crank, what bottom bracket would I need and how would I get the size? One of these - Campagnolo Power Torque Outboard Cups (EPS Compatible), Bottom Brackets, BOTTOM BRACKETS, Campagnolo Power Torque OS Fit Integrated Cups, Bottom Brackets, BOTTOM BRACKETS Thanks!
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Cool - thanks a lot. If I was going to go for the Veloce Power Torque crank, what bottom bracket would I need and how would I get the size? One of these - Campagnolo Power Torque Outboard Cups (EPS Compatible), Bottom Brackets, BOTTOM BRACKETS, Campagnolo Power Torque OS Fit Integrated Cups, Bottom Brackets, BOTTOM BRACKETS Thanks!
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So I'd need the cups and not an actual bottom bracket? Couldn't I go with something like the Campagnolo Centaur Bottom Bracket (https://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/roa...et/campbtbr375)
Last edited by Quadruplex; 07-23-15 at 04:08 PM.
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Powertorque cranks only require those cups, the rest of the bottom bracket is all part of the crank
That bottom bracket will not work with a powertorque crank
That bottom bracket will not work with a powertorque crank
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Ok - this all starting to make sense. Am I right that the bottom bracket cups for power torque are not the same as ultra torque cups? I'd need this - https://www.planetcyclery.com/campagn...bottom-bracket? Without the right tools, can I just use the shell width to figure out the threading on the bottom bracket?
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I wouldn't use a powertorque crankset. Installing it fine...but to ever pull the damn thing apart you need a proprietary crankarm puller tool that costs more than the damned crankset is worth.
Look on your current bottom bracket its cups are probably labelled as to what threading it is. It is probably 68mm English, but best be sure.
Look on your current bottom bracket its cups are probably labelled as to what threading it is. It is probably 68mm English, but best be sure.
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All you need is the crank and the cups. Power torque cups are different from Ultra torque cups. The shell width if measured accurately will give you the threading, Italian bottom bracket shells are 70 mm wide, English are 68 mm wide. Different tools are needed to remove your old crank than are needed to install the new one
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Marcus_Ti what would you use instead of a power torque crankset? After installing it, I can't imagine I would ever need to take it apart or at least in the near future.
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Marcus_Ti what would you use instead of a power torque crankset? After installing it, I can't imagine I would ever need to take it apart or at least in the near future.
Que lecture mode
The issue is that unlike square-taper or ISIS system of old, that quite frankly if you bought quality could last a decade or more without much maintenance....
All these external-BB systems...be they Campag Ultra/Power-Torque, or Shimano Hollowtech 1 or 2, or FSA GXP, or BB30, or PF30, or BB86 or BB386EVO (you get the idea, ALL the post-sq-taper designs of the last decade)...require much more regular maintenance and tend to crap out much quicker especially in foul weather. As a side note these systems (ALL of them,) are VERY fussy with regard to your frame tolerance. All these systems were designed and made with CAD where every part is perfect and wonderful and exactly to size, and as such they tolerate basically zero IRL machining error (which is a fact of life IRL). Your old sq taper has a movable and a fixed cup to adjust for a BB that isn't exactly correctly WRT shell width...All these post-sq-taper designs have no tolerance for error, if your BB width isn't on the money there's no way to make it right (although if it is large you can mill it down...)and the results are faster wear and worse creaking/noise as there's no mechanism in place to account for poor machining. When installing, measure your BB to make sure it is up to tolerance-if it isn't you'll find out real quick as things won't fit together right.
/end lecture mode.
Last edited by Marcus_Ti; 07-23-15 at 04:49 PM.
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Thanks Marcus_Ti . Interesting...Makes me think that right now I should just change the cassette, chain, and chainrings. How much of a change will I notice just going from 12-23 teeth to 13-26 teeth?
If I did just that, what chainrings would you suggest? Is there any real worth while difference between TA Chainring Campagnolo 135mm 8/9/10 Spd, CHAINRINGS, CHAINRINGS ROAD and Stronglight Dural 135mm Campagnolo 8/9/10 Chainring, CHAINRINGS, CHAINRINGS ROAD
Thanks a lot!
If I did just that, what chainrings would you suggest? Is there any real worth while difference between TA Chainring Campagnolo 135mm 8/9/10 Spd, CHAINRINGS, CHAINRINGS ROAD and Stronglight Dural 135mm Campagnolo 8/9/10 Chainring, CHAINRINGS, CHAINRINGS ROAD
Thanks a lot!
Last edited by Quadruplex; 07-23-15 at 05:03 PM.
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You will notice very little difference going from the 23T to the 26T on the cassette. It will essentially be like having "one more gear" on the low end of your range. Imagine that and you will have a good idea.
Personally, I think Marcus_Ti is blowing the external bearing crank thing out of proportion a little. I've used quite a few Shimano HollowTech II cranks on everything from vintage steel frames to modern carbon and never had an issue. I'd recommend a Shimano HollowTech II crankset, compact or triple. Something like Tiagra or 105 for a good value. But there are also tons of old square taper cranks you could put on instead.
Personally, I think Marcus_Ti is blowing the external bearing crank thing out of proportion a little. I've used quite a few Shimano HollowTech II cranks on everything from vintage steel frames to modern carbon and never had an issue. I'd recommend a Shimano HollowTech II crankset, compact or triple. Something like Tiagra or 105 for a good value. But there are also tons of old square taper cranks you could put on instead.
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My thought when opening this thread was "Sure, 8-speed Campy sounds like a great upgrade!"
Think I've been spending too much time in C&V...
P.S. More seriously, I do think 13-26T would be a much better choice for climbing hills than the 12-23T, especially if you don't use the 53/12 top gear. Not an earth-shattering difference, but it'll be appreciated when things get steep.
Think I've been spending too much time in C&V...
P.S. More seriously, I do think 13-26T would be a much better choice for climbing hills than the 12-23T, especially if you don't use the 53/12 top gear. Not an earth-shattering difference, but it'll be appreciated when things get steep.
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Since 39T is the smallest ring available for that crank you don't have a choice without going to a compact or triple. If it were my bike I'd probably just throw a triple on there. But then you'll probably need a new front derailer. Also, I don't know if the Campy shifter will shift a triple but I think it will.
A compact crank like the one in your link is going to be your easiest bet.
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Used Campagnolo triple parts are very affordable on ebay, and crankset + derailleurs are your best choice for lower gears. With the stock inner ring 30x26 is like 39x34 or 34x30 you can go
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That's about like going to a compact crank with a 12-23, except when riding the small ring and eschewing the fully cross-chained combinations 39x14 is a gear harder than 34x13 which is like 39x15.
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Thanks Marcus_Ti . Interesting...Makes me think that right now I should just change the cassette, chain, and chainrings. How much of a change will I notice just going from 12-23 teeth to 13-26 teeth?
!
!
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So I'd need the cups and not an actual bottom bracket? Couldn't I go with something like the Campagnolo Centaur Bottom Bracket (Campagnolo Centaur Bottom Bracket, Bottom Brackets, BOTTOM BRACKETS)
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