How to install half-link on fixed gear chain?
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How to install half-link on fixed gear chain?
I bought a Gusset half-link 3/32 to shorten my chain on a fixed gear internal gear hub with horizontal dropouts. The chain I need to shorten is an 8 speed 3/32 chain.
I expected to receive a half-length link (did not study photo when ordering) but what arrived was a pair of two chain plates joined with a chain pin.
On a regular chain, a joined pair of plates ends in a wide outer end at one half and a narrow inner end on the other half. But the Gusset joined plate pair terminates in a narrow inner end on both ends.
The Gusset half-link consists of one plate pair that is pure inner plate, and one plate pair that is outer on one end and inner on the other.
How do I use this? Do I push out the pin in the half-link, toss the remaining inner plate set from the Gusset, and push the Gusset pin back through to join the outer side of the Gusset plate to the inner plate end of the chain I am shortening, and then use a KMC Missing Link to join the other end of my chain to the narrow (inner) end of the half of the Gusset half-link?
Something does not seem right about that. Why would Gusset include that inner plate if I just have to remove it and toss it? And I am not too trusting of the Gusset pin if I push it out and then re-use it.
I must not be thinking clearly. Can somebody elaborate? I have googled for videos or installation instructions but cannot find any.
I expected to receive a half-length link (did not study photo when ordering) but what arrived was a pair of two chain plates joined with a chain pin.
On a regular chain, a joined pair of plates ends in a wide outer end at one half and a narrow inner end on the other half. But the Gusset joined plate pair terminates in a narrow inner end on both ends.
The Gusset half-link consists of one plate pair that is pure inner plate, and one plate pair that is outer on one end and inner on the other.
How do I use this? Do I push out the pin in the half-link, toss the remaining inner plate set from the Gusset, and push the Gusset pin back through to join the outer side of the Gusset plate to the inner plate end of the chain I am shortening, and then use a KMC Missing Link to join the other end of my chain to the narrow (inner) end of the half of the Gusset half-link?
Something does not seem right about that. Why would Gusset include that inner plate if I just have to remove it and toss it? And I am not too trusting of the Gusset pin if I push it out and then re-use it.
I must not be thinking clearly. Can somebody elaborate? I have googled for videos or installation instructions but cannot find any.
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This is a preassembled 1" long pair of links that replaces a three link sequence with inners at each end. So, depending on the chain splice it by leaving outer links on the chain and pressing in pins (Shimano system), or cut out 5 links total, leaving inners at both ends and using two connector links to make 5 links into 4.
I hope that clarifies it.
I hope that clarifies it.
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You'll want to put it between two pinned ends, e.g.:
But I'm confused: you say you have horizontal dropouts, so unless there's something peculiar about your bike, you shouldn't need a half-link to get the proper chain length.
But I'm confused: you say you have horizontal dropouts, so unless there's something peculiar about your bike, you shouldn't need a half-link to get the proper chain length.
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JT,
I'm jealous of your photo library, and/or your ability to find and link appropriate photos.
BTW- when I try to attach photos from URLs, I keep getting "remote file too large". Is there a trick to this?
I'm jealous of your photo library, and/or your ability to find and link appropriate photos.
BTW- when I try to attach photos from URLs, I keep getting "remote file too large". Is there a trick to this?
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Help me overcome my mistrust of joining chains with pins
This is a preassembled 1" long pair of links that replaces a three link sequence with inners at each end. So, depending on the chain splice it by leaving outer links on the chain and pressing in pins (Shimano system), or cut out 5 links total, leaving inners at both ends and using two connector links to make 5 links into 4.
I hope that clarifies it.
I hope that clarifies it.
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Like JT, I can't fathom why you even need one of these on a SS with horizontal dropouts.
As for closing the chain, it's fine to push the pins for single speed/fixed chain. It's not subject to the horizontal and plate spreading stresses of use with a derailleur, so the risk of catastrophic failure is low.
As for closing the chain, it's fine to push the pins for single speed/fixed chain. It's not subject to the horizontal and plate spreading stresses of use with a derailleur, so the risk of catastrophic failure is low.
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BTW- when I try to attach photos from URLs, I keep getting "remote file too large". Is there a trick to this?
And I host my own pictures on an old computer in the basement rather than using a service like flickr or imgur.
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[QUOTE=FBinNY;18023240]Like JT, I can't fathom why you even need one of these on a SS with horizontal dropouts.
I had been using a regular 8 speed chain joined with a Wipperman. With the chain ring and cog combo that I'm running, a brand-new chain sized appropriately put the axle pretty close to the end of the horizontal (not track, but vintage road bike horizontal) dropouts. By about 1,300 miles on the chain, the axle is touching the back of the dropouts so I can no longer pull the axle back to remove excessive chain slack. Without using a half-link, but shortening the chain, the axle is at the very front of the dropouts, shortening my wheelbase and pushing the tire closer to the chain stays than I would like, so the half link seems like the appropriate solution.
I had been using a regular 8 speed chain joined with a Wipperman. With the chain ring and cog combo that I'm running, a brand-new chain sized appropriately put the axle pretty close to the end of the horizontal (not track, but vintage road bike horizontal) dropouts. By about 1,300 miles on the chain, the axle is touching the back of the dropouts so I can no longer pull the axle back to remove excessive chain slack. Without using a half-link, but shortening the chain, the axle is at the very front of the dropouts, shortening my wheelbase and pushing the tire closer to the chain stays than I would like, so the half link seems like the appropriate solution.
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OK, that makes sense.
Without using a half link a dropout needs a bit over 1/2" of usable range to accommodate wheel movement resulting from adding/removing 1" of chain. Plus a bit of fudge room for things like chain stretch, and the effects of the relative sprocket sizes. Just about any horizontal dropout provides well more than that.
But, if you want to avoid moving the wheel too fat forward, in order to preserve tire or fender clearance, I can see your logic for using a half link.
Without using a half link a dropout needs a bit over 1/2" of usable range to accommodate wheel movement resulting from adding/removing 1" of chain. Plus a bit of fudge room for things like chain stretch, and the effects of the relative sprocket sizes. Just about any horizontal dropout provides well more than that.
But, if you want to avoid moving the wheel too fat forward, in order to preserve tire or fender clearance, I can see your logic for using a half link.
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#10
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FWIW.. I've seen, in shop distributor catalogs, 1/8" chains made up entirely of half links , certainly a a BMX /fixie conversation piece.
side plates S bent , roller on bushing on one end , pin thru outer link width on the other end.
I use one [IDK half link brand] on my (Whipperman) Full Bushing type 3/32nd chain on my IGH bike.
its where I press the pin 'almost' out to bucket clean my chain .
side plates S bent , roller on bushing on one end , pin thru outer link width on the other end.
I use one [IDK half link brand] on my (Whipperman) Full Bushing type 3/32nd chain on my IGH bike.
its where I press the pin 'almost' out to bucket clean my chain .
Last edited by fietsbob; 07-29-15 at 09:38 AM.
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"Conversation piece" is right, since there's nothing a full half-link chain provides that a single half-link couldn't do just as well, and likely at lower cost.
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Then again, if we limited ourselves to the practical or necessary, half the bike industry would disappear overnight.
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Maybe I am missing something, but OP has an 8 speed (presumably modern peened pin end) 3/32" chain. Are half links not meant for 1/8" chains? Or does it not matter?
Also, with quick links (as opposed to master links), you need to have the ability to make slack in the chain to disconnect them. A derailleur is a big slack-making-device, so multi-speed bikes are generally ok, but with a single cog/single ring setup you would either need to move the wheel way forward or take chain off the cog or ring to push the links of the quicklink together enough to open it.
Also, with quick links (as opposed to master links), you need to have the ability to make slack in the chain to disconnect them. A derailleur is a big slack-making-device, so multi-speed bikes are generally ok, but with a single cog/single ring setup you would either need to move the wheel way forward or take chain off the cog or ring to push the links of the quicklink together enough to open it.
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Maybe I am missing something, but OP has an 8 speed (presumably modern peened pin end) 3/32" chain. Are half links not meant for 1/8" chains? Or does it not matter?
Also, with quick links (as opposed to master links), you need to have the ability to make slack in the chain to disconnect them. A derailleur is a big slack-making-device, so multi-speed bikes are generally ok, but with a single cog/single ring setup you would either need to move the wheel way forward or take chain off the cog or ring to push the links of the quicklink together enough to open it.
Also, with quick links (as opposed to master links), you need to have the ability to make slack in the chain to disconnect them. A derailleur is a big slack-making-device, so multi-speed bikes are generally ok, but with a single cog/single ring setup you would either need to move the wheel way forward or take chain off the cog or ring to push the links of the quicklink together enough to open it.
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This has been a helpful thread. I'm not sure why I couldn't figure out the logic of how to install the Gusset half link myself. I thought and puzzled and studied, but didn't work it out. It's great to have experts on forums for this type of help. Thanks again.
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I still don't understand the gusset slink install
(photo -- that's the Gusset Slink on the left and the KMC half link on the right)
The Gusset Slink is a two-part combo joined with a pin that terminates in an inner on both ends. If I connect this with a quick connector at both ends, I have not shortened my chain at all. By comparison, the KMC half link is a single link that terminates in one one outer end and one inner end. The outer end comes with a pin that you drive in to connect it to the existing last-link inner on your chain. You can then join the other end using a quick connect, and thereby shorten your chain by half a link pair.
I think I am playing loose with terminology. Forgive me if I am. I think proper chain terminology uses the word "link" to refer to two chain plate sections -- one inner and one outer -- joined with a pin.
See my pictures of the Gusset Slink and the KMC half link.
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I thought fixies are simple. It will have to go something like:
. . . [chain's inner] [quick link] [gusset] [quick link] [chain's inner] . . .
Maybe consider switching to true 7s or 1/8 inch chain.
. . . [chain's inner] [quick link] [gusset] [quick link] [chain's inner] . . .
Maybe consider switching to true 7s or 1/8 inch chain.
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But that still does not remove length from the chain??
I use 3/32 due to easy availability even out in the nowhere villes where I tour sometimes, and I think 1/8 chain is heavier (says the man riding a 4130 frame and a Brooks Flyer saddle!!)
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(photo -- that's the Gusset Slink on the left and the KMC half link on the right)
The Gusset Slink is a two-part combo joined with a pin that terminates in an inner on both ends. If I connect this with a quick connector at both ends, I have not shortened my chain at all. By comparison, the KMC half link is a single link that terminates in one one outer end and one inner end. The outer end comes with a pin that you drive in to connect it to the existing last-link inner on your chain. You can then join the other end using a quick connect, and thereby shorten your chain by half a link pair.
I think I am playing loose with terminology. Forgive me if I am. I think proper chain terminology uses the word "link" to refer to two chain plate sections -- one inner and one outer -- joined with a pin.
See my pictures of the Gusset Slink and the KMC half link.
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Then why buy a Gusset Slink?
It's sold as a solution to the problem of needing to shorten a chain by half the length of a link pair but nobody seems to know how to do this with this product. With the kmc half link, the application is obvious.
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But your example does not allow me to shorten the chain. I am left with a chain of the same length as before. With the KMC half link, I would be shortening by half a link pair. Am I missing something?
I use 3/32 due to easy availability even out in the nowhere villes where I tour sometimes, and I think 1/8 chain is heavier (says the man riding a 4130 frame and a Brooks Flyer saddle!!)
I use 3/32 due to easy availability even out in the nowhere villes where I tour sometimes, and I think 1/8 chain is heavier (says the man riding a 4130 frame and a Brooks Flyer saddle!!)
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A little question remains in my mind
The KMC half link comes with its own pin partially installed into the outer end of the half link, and I would use a quick connect on the other end.
Is this correct reasoning -- that the Slink should be used only with chains that can be joined with a pin, rather than with a quick link? Quick links work only when joining an inner to an inner.
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I imagine you could put a Quick-link on both ends of the Slink to make it work.