116 mm spindle crank options
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116 mm spindle crank options
i have a like new 1999 diamondback response.
I am angry as I cannot find crankset options for a 116mm spindle. If they are out there they are hidden by poor website searching ability. (spent 2 hours looking so far).
The bike came with crankset: Shimano Altus, 24/34/42 teeth, bottom Bracket: YST BB 969, 116mm spindle, BB Shell Width: 68mm English.
The teeth on largest ring are broken off, aprox 3 teeth missing half their height.
I would like to either buy a whole crankset and either use it or harvest the triple chainrings off of it for my original crank.
I REALLY dont want to change the bb, why? i shouldnt need to as it is like new and they made thousands of bikes with 116mm spindles.
Can this be done? Please consider again i dont want to change bb.
Is there no new options for this stock bb?
I am angry as I cannot find crankset options for a 116mm spindle. If they are out there they are hidden by poor website searching ability. (spent 2 hours looking so far).
The bike came with crankset: Shimano Altus, 24/34/42 teeth, bottom Bracket: YST BB 969, 116mm spindle, BB Shell Width: 68mm English.
The teeth on largest ring are broken off, aprox 3 teeth missing half their height.
I would like to either buy a whole crankset and either use it or harvest the triple chainrings off of it for my original crank.
I REALLY dont want to change the bb, why? i shouldnt need to as it is like new and they made thousands of bikes with 116mm spindles.
Can this be done? Please consider again i dont want to change bb.
Is there no new options for this stock bb?
#2
Really Old Senior Member
How do you know 116mm is the exactly correct length for that crank, since you have a few mm leeway?
Are the teeth broken or just the common irregularly shaped teeth found on Hyper glide cranks to assist shifting?
Does there seem to be some "symmetry" to how they are spaced around the circumference of the crank?
Compare to another crank, or post a pic.
Are the teeth broken or just the common irregularly shaped teeth found on Hyper glide cranks to assist shifting?
Does there seem to be some "symmetry" to how they are spaced around the circumference of the crank?
Compare to another crank, or post a pic.
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How do you know 116mm is the exactly correct length for that crank, since you have a few mm leeway?
Are the teeth broken or just the common irregularly shaped teeth found on Hyper glide cranks to assist shifting?
Does there seem to be some "symmetry" to how they are spaced around the circumference of the crank?
Compare to another crank, or post a pic.
Are the teeth broken or just the common irregularly shaped teeth found on Hyper glide cranks to assist shifting?
Does there seem to be some "symmetry" to how they are spaced around the circumference of the crank?
Compare to another crank, or post a pic.
Thanks for quick response.
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Cranksets requiring 118mm spindles are available that would likely work fine on your 116mm spindle (you'd only be moving the crank 1mm inboard from what's recommended). The best answer, though, is to choose the crankset you want and get the bottom bracket that goes with it, not the other way around, unless your bicycle has some unusual bottom bracket shell or frame geometry that makes it necessary to do it your way. Serviceable, even pretty good BBs are cheap ($25 or less).
BTW, my daily rider is sporting a single speed crankset (1X9) that was supposed to be paired with a 118mm spindle. By the time I got through trying it with the bottom brackets in my stash of parts, including 118, 115, and 113, I settled on 108mm as the one that gave me the best chain line to the middle cog. Not everything works out as advertised.
BTW, my daily rider is sporting a single speed crankset (1X9) that was supposed to be paired with a 118mm spindle. By the time I got through trying it with the bottom brackets in my stash of parts, including 118, 115, and 113, I settled on 108mm as the one that gave me the best chain line to the middle cog. Not everything works out as advertised.
Last edited by Cross Creek; 07-30-15 at 04:18 PM.
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just trying to keep a nice clean old bike stock and usable. -on the cheap.
the whole concept of needing to change the bb and the crank because the chainring is bad makes me want to be very violent.
the whole concept of needing to change the bb and the crank because the chainring is bad makes me want to be very violent.
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Based on a quick Google search, it looks like that crank should have been used with a 123mm BB. I'm 90% sure the BikePedia entry is wrong in listing a 116mm BB. But that's neither here nor there.
Do you have a picture of your "broken" chainring teeth? Half-height teeth in strategic locations to aid shifting is one of those Shimano innovations:

(Pic from Leisure Lakes Bikes.)
That said, you can get a brand-new Tourney crankset with 42/34/24 rings for $18, and a 123mm UN26 bottom bracket for about $12 more, so $30 to get that bike rolling again isn't too bad in my book.
Do you have a picture of your "broken" chainring teeth? Half-height teeth in strategic locations to aid shifting is one of those Shimano innovations:

(Pic from Leisure Lakes Bikes.)
That said, you can get a brand-new Tourney crankset with 42/34/24 rings for $18, and a 123mm UN26 bottom bracket for about $12 more, so $30 to get that bike rolling again isn't too bad in my book.
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Are the "broken" teeth causing any problems as regards the functioning of the crankset? I suspect that they may be merely designed-in shift gates.
If it works OK, Never Fix A Running Piece.
If it works OK, Never Fix A Running Piece.
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