Have a problem with my nipples
#1
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Have a problem with my nipples
So anyway, I have a rear road wheel with who knows how many miles on it, lets just say a lot. It was built up to be a bomber training type wheel 32 hole open pros, 14/15/14 spokes to da hubs.
The wheels has never been out of true until this week when I noticed a little swerve after a ride. So I broke out the spoke wrench and truing stand, and when I tried to turn the wrench the nipple basically disintegrated. I tried another and same result. When I looked closer at some more of the nipples, they were basically all ready to give up and fall apart with little cracks developing and such.
The rims still looks good and the hub is in fine shape, so my questions for you seasoned mechanics are
1. Can I just buy new nipples and replace them one by one as I go around? I have a tensionmeter so I would replace each spoke to proper tension and then on to the next? Which nips are recomended?
2. Is there anything else to be looking for? The spokes, hub and rim look solid but what could I be missing? I don't want to re-nipple and then have all the eyelets start cracking or something
3. Should I just take this opportunity and build up a new wheel with fresh spokes, nipples and rim (I want to reuse the hub)
4. Anything else?
The wheels has never been out of true until this week when I noticed a little swerve after a ride. So I broke out the spoke wrench and truing stand, and when I tried to turn the wrench the nipple basically disintegrated. I tried another and same result. When I looked closer at some more of the nipples, they were basically all ready to give up and fall apart with little cracks developing and such.
The rims still looks good and the hub is in fine shape, so my questions for you seasoned mechanics are
1. Can I just buy new nipples and replace them one by one as I go around? I have a tensionmeter so I would replace each spoke to proper tension and then on to the next? Which nips are recomended?
2. Is there anything else to be looking for? The spokes, hub and rim look solid but what could I be missing? I don't want to re-nipple and then have all the eyelets start cracking or something
3. Should I just take this opportunity and build up a new wheel with fresh spokes, nipples and rim (I want to reuse the hub)
4. Anything else?
#2
Really Old Senior Member
I'd just get new brass nipples.
If the nipples are actually disintegrating, I'd replace them one at a time. Else, back the tension off the entire wheel and replace one at a time.
BTW, I'd hit the spoke threads with a wire brush to clean them up and use a lube.
You still probably won't have the "feel" of a new spoke when tensioning, but it won't be as bad if you didn't.
If the nipples are actually disintegrating, I'd replace them one at a time. Else, back the tension off the entire wheel and replace one at a time.
BTW, I'd hit the spoke threads with a wire brush to clean them up and use a lube.
You still probably won't have the "feel" of a new spoke when tensioning, but it won't be as bad if you didn't.
#3
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I'd just get new brass nipples.
If the nipples are actually disintegrating, I'd replace them one at a time. Else, back the tension off the entire wheel and replace one at a time.
BTW, I'd hit the spoke threads with a wire brush to clean them up and use a lube.
You still probably won't have the "feel" of a new spoke when tensioning, but it won't be as bad if you didn't.
If the nipples are actually disintegrating, I'd replace them one at a time. Else, back the tension off the entire wheel and replace one at a time.
BTW, I'd hit the spoke threads with a wire brush to clean them up and use a lube.
You still probably won't have the "feel" of a new spoke when tensioning, but it won't be as bad if you didn't.
I kid, I kid....is tri-flow ok? park grease? or should I get specific spoke prep stuff
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Had the same thing happen on a Powertap wheel I got off of Ebay. Popped a nipple after bunny-hopping over a pot hole, turns out all of the nipples were aluminum. Replaced one at a time with brass, truing the wheel after each (not very hard). One nipple was seized good, had to cut the spoke to get it off. Other than this, it went pretty smooth. I dip the end of each spoke in motor oil before inserting into the nipple.
#5
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Had the same thing happen on a Powertap wheel I got off of Ebay. Popped a nipple after bunny-hopping over a pot hole, turns out all of the nipples were aluminum. Replaced one at a time with brass, truing the wheel after each (not very hard). One nipple was seized good, had to cut the spoke to get it off. Other than this, it went pretty smooth. I dip the end of each spoke in motor oil before inserting into the nipple.
Brass Nips it is
#6
Really Old Senior Member
A drop of oil will work fine and may be better on old threads that will probably have enough friction on their own.
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Do the spokes go into the rim?
I had a rear wheel do the same thing on me, the brass nipples disintegrated. The spokes were not penetrating the rim hole. IIRC i got 2mm longer spokes. Its been laced up for 6 months now as a daily rider and no problems.
I had a rear wheel do the same thing on me, the brass nipples disintegrated. The spokes were not penetrating the rim hole. IIRC i got 2mm longer spokes. Its been laced up for 6 months now as a daily rider and no problems.
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No trivia's question was my first thought. Spokes not long enough. (Or are these aluminum nipples? Go brass if they are.)
I prefer to use real grease on my spoke threads, at least Park but I prefer marine boat trailer hub grease (any auto parts store; ~$8/grease gun tube). That way I know they will not stick if I have to adjust them years later.
Ben
I prefer to use real grease on my spoke threads, at least Park but I prefer marine boat trailer hub grease (any auto parts store; ~$8/grease gun tube). That way I know they will not stick if I have to adjust them years later.
Ben
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Greasing spoke threads are for those of weak hands... put a drop of lube on the outside of said part when tension-ing becomes hard.. that friction area between said part and the rim. Lubing threads only facilitates de-tensioning NDS rears where tension levels are typically near the 'shake loose' range.........