Lockring for Shimano cassette
 

The worn cassette on my 1993 Rockhopper is being replaced with a new Shimano CS-HG20-7 12-28T Cassette. Should anti-seize compound be applied to the threads of the lockring?

I don't, but I swap cassettes a few times/yr.
A bit of grease on the threads wouldn't hurt anything.

the toothy interface with the last cog keeps it on ,

if you may need to replace a drive side spoke, like on a Bike tour , dont over do the tightening.

Follow the spec's on the Lock-ring, should be 40Nm.

Can you generate that much force in the boonies, with a simple tool kit, to get it off , when a spoke Breaks ?

to be sure, Have you tried It at home first?

Stein Lockring Tool: Stein Tools for Hubs, Cassettes and Freewheels

Edit: And yes, grease or preferably anti-seize on the threads.

Clever tool

Anti-seize is fine but I just use grease.

That's the spec all right, but it's insanely high IMO. No reason to go that high with a steel freehub body. The teeth on the lockring/cog will keep in in place at a much lower torque. All it does it make it more of a PITA to take off.

The higher torque value compresses the cogs together so they move as a unit. Mainly it help prevent gouging of aluminum freehubs by steel cassettes.

Geniuine Shimano freehub bodies are either steel or titanium* and will not get gouged from lower torque. Cheap knockoff aluminum bodies, you're on your own. In my experience they will get gouged no matter how tight you get the lockring.


*They made an aluminum Dura Ace freehub but it had taller splines to prevent gouging.