B1KE

Hey everyone, I'm currently runnign TRP Spyres on my road bike and I notice the modulation is not very linear. For example I have to engage the lever about one quarter of the way down before any stopping occurs.

1. I've already tried adjusting via the torx wrench on the pad itself and the barrell adjuster. Is there anything else I can do that can improve the modulation to make it more linear?

2. Also would an alternative pad material(currently riding the resin ones that came with it) make the braking power more linear and even?

cale

Have you taken up slack by pulling cable through the brake cable anchor bolt? Is there an additional tensioner located on the frame, cable or brake levers?

B1KE

I had the brakes set up at my local LBS so not sure about the cable slack. What should I look for? What should I ask them if I decide to take it in?

Not sure about a tensioner, what would one look like? I know that there is a spring inside the barrel adjuster but I don't think that's adjustable.

I wish I could be more descriptive but I'm a newbie to biking and more so mechanics.

fietsbob

The new TRP Spyke MTB and Spyre road/cross, calipers .. double acting calipers (both pads move to the rim) are said to be
a bit smoother modulating than the usual 1 fixed , 1 moving pad cable brake designs ..

the new Hy-Rd is a road/ cross hydraulic caliper that is operated by a cable .. it sits by the wheel .



maybe you need to take classes on bike mechanics ?, if there were a CoOp you could learn there. In Person.

B1KE

I know what they are supposed to be like and I know the difference between the TRP Spyre and Hy-Rd. What I'm looking for is not lessons but a solution to my problem as stated in my question above.

AnkleWork

Did you look at TRP's video and .pdf for these brakes?

fietsbob

Cannot help from a keyboard , read the Manual ..

skoda2

+1, you're one of the most helpful people on here. Perhaps he should take his bike to a Bike Shop!

B1KE

Thanks for your tip but if you cannot help from a keyboard you should also not help by posting since it ads nothing to helping me solve my issue.

I've already read the manual and used by all known options so I'm looking for constructive help here from more experienced riders and mechanics that can perhaps give me ideas or things to look for or an alternative pad compound that can increase breaking performance.

fietsbob

repeating the thousandth time : Kool Stop Salmon compound for rim brakes , I bought Kool stop Disc pads for my BB7 .

The front brake just has to be treated with respect .. it can stop the bike but you may not stop.
then you need Technique , skills ... get your butt off and Low behind the saddle.




This is worth every penny you have paid for it .. Unless you are going to start leaving cash on the pillow.

gsa103

Pad compound matters more for rim brakes than disc brakes, so the most part disc pads all behave similarly. The main choice exception is Metallic vs Resin pads, Resin have better initial stopping, but are prone to fading in longer braking sections.

The first thing to check is that the pads move as soon as you pull the brake lever. If there's slack in the brake cable, that will explain your issue.

alcjphil

The amount of lever pull before the brake pads contact the rotors does not affect modulation. It would be normal for you to have to move the lever somewhat before there is any braking. Modulation is about how well you can control the amount of braking at any point after the pads contact the rotor. I would not consider 25% of lever travel before the brakes engage to be excessive. My own rim brakes on my road bike are set up that way, I really dislike brakes that engage with almost no lever pull it is much too easy to brake inadvertently. As well, a rotor that is slightly out of true will rub all the time if your brake calipers are set too tight

dynaryder

Way to go.

B1KE,a fact fietsbob didn't point out(prolly cuz he's never seen Spyres IRL) is that while both pads move,the inner actually starts moving before the outer one. Try setting your outer pad closer and see if that helps.

fietsbob

At 67, Its a challenge to my Bifocals to see Disc pad's relative clearances ,

and in general I adjust brakes to have the lever stroke in the best part of my hand's grip range.

My fingers being the modulator in chief.

B1KE

Great tip, will try that tomorrow, thanks!

B1KE

I understand what you're saying about modulation. Ideally what I wanted is a full range of modulation as soon as I press down even slightly on the break lever I can feather away the speed and the more I press the more breaking power comes on.

B1KE

The pads don't move as soon as I press the brake lever, how can I adjust the slack in the brake cable?

alcjphil

There is a barrel adjuster where the brake cable enters the brake calliper. Turn it counter clockwise to reduce the slack in the cable