Thinking about switching my wife's drivetrain from triple to single chainring.
08-19-15, 09:21 AM
#1
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Thinking about switching my wife's drivetrain from triple to single chainring.
I like my triple, but after 3 riding seasons (2 and 1/3 years), my wife seems to still not have the hang of using her road triple. Simply put, she never uses anything other than the middle chainring. The 52 tooth big chainring is way too tall to be useful, and she still has trouble getting the hang of shifting down to the small chainring on long or steep hills. Though I have tried to coach her up on how to use the triple, in the end, I think after 35 years of riding classic 10 speeds (and really just using half that range) she just has a preferred riding style that doesn't include double shifting in order to maintain a steady cadence. We already turned her vintage Peugeot into a 1 x 9 bike and she seems to really like that set up, and I am thinking about doing that with her Jamis Satellite over the winter.
I saw the new Fairdale Weekender Drop 2015 Weekender Drop | Fairdale Bikes at my LBS and was thinking something like that drivetrain setup (39 to 42 tooth single chainring mated with an 11 - 32 to 34 cassette) would be absolutely perfect for my wife's riding and shifting style, though switching from 8 speed to 10 speed would cost me a more than a few bucks, probably for a new shifter, new cassette, new wheel, and new derailleur. The cheapest thing might just be stick with 8 speed, switch out the cassette and maybe go to a long cage derailleur if the stock 2300 (old Sora) derailleur can't handle a 32 or 34 tooth derailleur.
Some might say, why bother, and they would have a point. That said, I get the sense she isn't getting all she can out of her Jamis, and is needlessly blowing herself up on climbs simply because she doesn't like to use her left shifter.
I saw the new Fairdale Weekender Drop 2015 Weekender Drop | Fairdale Bikes at my LBS and was thinking something like that drivetrain setup (39 to 42 tooth single chainring mated with an 11 - 32 to 34 cassette) would be absolutely perfect for my wife's riding and shifting style, though switching from 8 speed to 10 speed would cost me a more than a few bucks, probably for a new shifter, new cassette, new wheel, and new derailleur. The cheapest thing might just be stick with 8 speed, switch out the cassette and maybe go to a long cage derailleur if the stock 2300 (old Sora) derailleur can't handle a 32 or 34 tooth derailleur.
Some might say, why bother, and they would have a point. That said, I get the sense she isn't getting all she can out of her Jamis, and is needlessly blowing herself up on climbs simply because she doesn't like to use her left shifter.
08-19-15, 10:00 AM
#2
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Why don't you just change out the cassette to one with a low enough gear that when using only the current middle ring is good for your hills? Change out the rear der if needed. Remove the large and small rings and be done for now. Save all the old parts in case she learns that she really wanted the low gear of a triple after all. If that is the finding then maybe she will be motivated to learn better how to take advantage of a triple and it's shifting.
We offer a shifting clinic, at the shop I work at, once a month. One aspect of learning to shift I mention is much like learning how to drive, perhaps the best person to do the teaching isn't the spouse. I see the spouse often nodding as I give the clinic, suggestion that everything I'm saying they have already said before. But then weeks later the other spouse (the one who is learning) comes in and thanks me for the help. As though they weren't able to accept their well meaning spouse's teaching, but with my help they did begin to understand and learn. Andy.
We offer a shifting clinic, at the shop I work at, once a month. One aspect of learning to shift I mention is much like learning how to drive, perhaps the best person to do the teaching isn't the spouse. I see the spouse often nodding as I give the clinic, suggestion that everything I'm saying they have already said before. But then weeks later the other spouse (the one who is learning) comes in and thanks me for the help. As though they weren't able to accept their well meaning spouse's teaching, but with my help they did begin to understand and learn. Andy.
08-19-15, 11:06 AM
#3
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Why don't you just change out the cassette to one with a low enough gear that when using only the current middle ring is good for your hills? Change out the rear der if needed. Remove the large and small rings and be done for now. Save all the old parts in case she learns that she really wanted the low gear of a triple after all. If that is the finding then maybe she will be motivated to learn better how to take advantage of a triple and it's shifting.
We offer a shifting clinic, at the shop I work at, once a month. One aspect of learning to shift I mention is much like learning how to drive, perhaps the best person to do the teaching isn't the spouse. I see the spouse often nodding as I give the clinic, suggestion that everything I'm saying they have already said before. But then weeks later the other spouse (the one who is learning) comes in and thanks me for the help. As though they weren't able to accept their well meaning spouse's teaching, but with my help they did begin to understand and learn. Andy.
We offer a shifting clinic, at the shop I work at, once a month. One aspect of learning to shift I mention is much like learning how to drive, perhaps the best person to do the teaching isn't the spouse. I see the spouse often nodding as I give the clinic, suggestion that everything I'm saying they have already said before. But then weeks later the other spouse (the one who is learning) comes in and thanks me for the help. As though they weren't able to accept their well meaning spouse's teaching, but with my help they did begin to understand and learn. Andy.
08-19-15, 11:56 AM
#4
Banned
planetary 2 speed cranks change the gear ratio without moving the chain ,
the 1 chainring moves at a different rate than the crankarms.
and by being a internal gear, shifts when not pedaling .. arrive at a stop in high an while waiting for the green light,
shift to low for the start off.
another approach,
Dual drive rear hubs combine an internal 3 speed and a cassette the front shift is easier with a IGH ,
up or down is instantaneous
the 1 chainring moves at a different rate than the crankarms.
and by being a internal gear, shifts when not pedaling .. arrive at a stop in high an while waiting for the green light,
shift to low for the start off.
another approach,
Dual drive rear hubs combine an internal 3 speed and a cassette the front shift is easier with a IGH ,
up or down is instantaneous
Last edited by fietsbob; 08-19-15 at 12:02 PM.
08-19-15, 12:04 PM
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planetary 2 speed cranks change the gear ratio without moving the chain ,
the 1 chainring moves at a different rate than the crankarms.
and by being a internal gear, shifts when not pedaling .. arrive at a stop in high an while waiting for the green light, shift to low for the start off.
the 1 chainring moves at a different rate than the crankarms.
and by being a internal gear, shifts when not pedaling .. arrive at a stop in high an while waiting for the green light, shift to low for the start off.
But they do provide a possible solution that each of us has to balance against the draw backs. Andy.
08-19-15, 12:25 PM
#6
Banned
patterson metro is one Patterson Bike - Rocket Fast Shifting | Cannot Throw a Chain overdrive Cable shifted
(videos of installation are online)
Schlumpf Speed drive is another also an overdrive , chamfered BB edges and a toothy conical grip washer
is the torque transfer
in overdrive the resistance is you going faster through the air. the low gear is direct
like it would be without It.
My super granny gear like Mountain Drive in its Brompton configuration uses a metal knob sitting on top
of the shelf like frame portion holding the rear section fold pivot.
for the rest of the bikes there is an arm and a coaster brake like strap around the right chainstay.
reduction gear the resistance is you versus gravity on a hill , then the torque transfer is more solid.
Rohloff is 10 reduction gears and 3 overdrive gears It has a solid torque stop for all those reduction gears..
(videos of installation are online)
Schlumpf Speed drive is another also an overdrive , chamfered BB edges and a toothy conical grip washer
is the torque transfer
in overdrive the resistance is you going faster through the air. the low gear is direct
like it would be without It.
My super granny gear like Mountain Drive in its Brompton configuration uses a metal knob sitting on top
of the shelf like frame portion holding the rear section fold pivot.
for the rest of the bikes there is an arm and a coaster brake like strap around the right chainstay.
reduction gear the resistance is you versus gravity on a hill , then the torque transfer is more solid.
Rohloff is 10 reduction gears and 3 overdrive gears It has a solid torque stop for all those reduction gears..
08-19-15, 12:51 PM
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I have no idea if this will help, but here goes.
A little background. My wife has been able to use downtube shifters and can shift the left lever, but downtube shifters are not the answer. A couple of years ago after I started riding mountain bikes, I decided to have her try our sons bike and it was a shifting disaster. She got so confused with the trigger shifters. It was never going to work.
I ended up installing a Rapid Rise (low normal) rear derailleur. This way using her thumbs makes pedaling harder and index finger makes it easier. The same for both sides. Truth be told I actually like the RR set up better and use it myself.
Back to the road bike. Originally on a old double Univega, I have moved this setup to her newer triple...
Pulled off the 10s 105 brifters and derailleur.
Installed ST2300/2303 8s brifters.
Installed XT760 RD.
Installed 12-34 Sunrace 8s cassette (nickle plated and under $20).
Running a 9s chain with 8s cassette and 10s chainrings.
Swapped out the 50t for a 46t... 30/39/46. She rides 90% in the 39t but will use the 30t (lifesaver) on hills. 46t will still look new in 25 years.
I use the same logic for shifting. The brake levers always make it harder to pedal/faster and the thumb levers always make it easier. The ST2300's also have a nice window so she knows if she is in the middle or small chainring.
My wife needs the 30t, but if yours can use a 34 you can end up with 34-39-46 and probably eliminate double shifting.
John
A little background. My wife has been able to use downtube shifters and can shift the left lever, but downtube shifters are not the answer. A couple of years ago after I started riding mountain bikes, I decided to have her try our sons bike and it was a shifting disaster. She got so confused with the trigger shifters. It was never going to work.
I ended up installing a Rapid Rise (low normal) rear derailleur. This way using her thumbs makes pedaling harder and index finger makes it easier. The same for both sides. Truth be told I actually like the RR set up better and use it myself.
Back to the road bike. Originally on a old double Univega, I have moved this setup to her newer triple...
Pulled off the 10s 105 brifters and derailleur.
Installed ST2300/2303 8s brifters.
Installed XT760 RD.
Installed 12-34 Sunrace 8s cassette (nickle plated and under $20).
Running a 9s chain with 8s cassette and 10s chainrings.
Swapped out the 50t for a 46t... 30/39/46. She rides 90% in the 39t but will use the 30t (lifesaver) on hills. 46t will still look new in 25 years.
I use the same logic for shifting. The brake levers always make it harder to pedal/faster and the thumb levers always make it easier. The ST2300's also have a nice window so she knows if she is in the middle or small chainring.
My wife needs the 30t, but if yours can use a 34 you can end up with 34-39-46 and probably eliminate double shifting.
John
08-19-15, 01:19 PM
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Like the idea of that Patterson drive, but if the OP's SO has a bugbear about the left shift, then dump the granny ring, light weight bash guard instead of the big ring and increase the cassette range.
What is the cassette range now and what is the middle ring tooth count?
If she never needs the smallest rear cog while in the middle front ring, you could just get a new Middle ring with a couple less teeth.
What is the cassette range now and what is the middle ring tooth count?
If she never needs the smallest rear cog while in the middle front ring, you could just get a new Middle ring with a couple less teeth.
08-19-15, 01:57 PM
#9
Banned
it is ice age flattened Wisconsin after all .. maybe the NuVinci hub would be better,
just turn the gripshifter till it feels right.
just turn the gripshifter till it feels right.
08-19-15, 04:06 PM
#10
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Like the idea of that Patterson drive, but if the OP's SO has a bugbear about the left shift, then dump the granny ring, light weight bash guard instead of the big ring and increase the cassette range.
What is the cassette range now and what is the middle ring tooth count?
If she never needs the smallest rear cog while in the middle front ring, you could just get a new Middle ring with a couple less teeth.
What is the cassette range now and what is the middle ring tooth count?
If she never needs the smallest rear cog while in the middle front ring, you could just get a new Middle ring with a couple less teeth.
Anyhow, going to a 11 - 32 or 12 - 32 gets me down from 40 gear inches to 32.6 gear inches. Go to a 34 tooth cassette and that gets the low gear all the way down to 30.7 gear inches, which is almost identical to the low gear on her bike now using a 30 tooth chainring. The only thing that would bug me is the big jumps in the middle gears when using an 8 speed, which is why I was willing to consider going to 10 speed. I think 1 x 10 with an 11 - 34 or 12 - 34 cassette has about as many useful gears as a 3 x 8 road triple.
If she could get the hang of the triple chainring, I would just look to switch out the big chainring to something smaller than 52, maybe 48 or 46, and keep the road cassette, as the ratios are close to perfect for cruising on flats, though she really does need the small chainring on a handful of hills we regularly climb. The only reason I am thinking of making the switch to a 1 x 10 is the apparent ease which she has taken to using the 1 x 9 on her vintage Peugeot. She loves the 40 x 32 low gear on that bike for climbing hills.
Last edited by MRT2; 08-19-15 at 04:13 PM.
08-19-15, 04:34 PM
#13
Senior Member
If manufacturer's gearing experts were to give us the option, my suggestion would be to take full advantage of these new 11-speed freewheels. A single double shift can provide a lot of evenly spaced gears and for some of us riders, it might look something like this: 15-16-17-18-19-20-22-24-26-30-34
While a 1:1 with the 34T may not be used that often, I'd probably have more use for it and all of the more closely spaced gears in the mid range than having the 11-12-13-14 cogs with the 50T chainring. The 50-15 combination with a cadence of 75 is about 20 mph and unless I'm coasting downhill, I'd need a tailwind to make that happen.
--e.g., something like this:
[TABLE="width: 240"]
[TR]
[TD="class: xl63, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"][SUP]Ring[/SUP][SUB]Cog [/SUB]
[/TD]
[TD="class: xl64, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]34[/TD]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]MPH (75 rpm)[/TD]
[TD="class: xl64, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]50[/TD]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]MPH (75 rpm)[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]15[/TD]
[TD="class: xl66, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"][/TD]
[TD="class: xl67, bgcolor: transparent"][/TD]
[TD="class: xl66, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]88[/TD]
[TD="class: xl67, bgcolor: transparent"]19.6[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]16[/TD]
[TD="class: xl66, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"][/TD]
[TD="class: xl67, bgcolor: transparent"][/TD]
[TD="class: xl66, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]83[/TD]
[TD="class: xl67, bgcolor: transparent"]18.4[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]17[/TD]
[TD="class: xl66, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"][/TD]
[TD="class: xl67, bgcolor: transparent"][/TD]
[TD="class: xl66, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]78[/TD]
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[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]18[/TD]
[TD="class: xl66, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]50[/TD]
[TD="class: xl67, bgcolor: transparent"]11.1[/TD]
[TD="class: xl66, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]74[/TD]
[TD="class: xl67, bgcolor: transparent"]16.4[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]19[/TD]
[TD="class: xl66, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]47[/TD]
[TD="class: xl67, bgcolor: transparent"]10.6[/TD]
[TD="class: xl66, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]70[/TD]
[TD="class: xl67, bgcolor: transparent"]15.5[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]20[/TD]
[TD="class: xl66, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]45[/TD]
[TD="class: xl67, bgcolor: transparent"]10.0[/TD]
[TD="class: xl66, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]66[/TD]
[TD="class: xl67, bgcolor: transparent"]14.7[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]22[/TD]
[TD="class: xl66, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]41[/TD]
[TD="class: xl67, bgcolor: transparent"]9.1[/TD]
[TD="class: xl66, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]60[/TD]
[TD="class: xl67, bgcolor: transparent"]13.4[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]24[/TD]
[TD="class: xl66, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]38[/TD]
[TD="class: xl67, bgcolor: transparent"]8.4[/TD]
[TD="class: xl66, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]55[/TD]
[TD="class: xl67, bgcolor: transparent"]12.2[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]26[/TD]
[TD="class: xl66, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]35[/TD]
[TD="class: xl67, bgcolor: transparent"]7.7[/TD]
[TD="class: xl66, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"][/TD]
[TD="class: xl67, bgcolor: transparent"][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]30[/TD]
[TD="class: xl66, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]30[/TD]
[TD="class: xl67, bgcolor: transparent"]6.7[/TD]
[TD="class: xl66, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"][/TD]
[TD="class: xl67, bgcolor: transparent"][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]34[/TD]
[TD="class: xl66, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]27[/TD]
[TD="class: xl67, bgcolor: transparent"]5.9[/TD]
[TD="class: xl66, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"][/TD]
[TD="class: xl67, bgcolor: transparent"][/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
While a 1:1 with the 34T may not be used that often, I'd probably have more use for it and all of the more closely spaced gears in the mid range than having the 11-12-13-14 cogs with the 50T chainring. The 50-15 combination with a cadence of 75 is about 20 mph and unless I'm coasting downhill, I'd need a tailwind to make that happen.
--e.g., something like this:
[TABLE="width: 240"]
[TR]
[TD="class: xl63, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"][SUP]Ring[/SUP][SUB]Cog [/SUB]
[/TD]
[TD="class: xl64, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]34[/TD]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]MPH (75 rpm)[/TD]
[TD="class: xl64, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]50[/TD]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]MPH (75 rpm)[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]15[/TD]
[TD="class: xl66, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"][/TD]
[TD="class: xl67, bgcolor: transparent"][/TD]
[TD="class: xl66, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]88[/TD]
[TD="class: xl67, bgcolor: transparent"]19.6[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]16[/TD]
[TD="class: xl66, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"][/TD]
[TD="class: xl67, bgcolor: transparent"][/TD]
[TD="class: xl66, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]83[/TD]
[TD="class: xl67, bgcolor: transparent"]18.4[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]17[/TD]
[TD="class: xl66, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"][/TD]
[TD="class: xl67, bgcolor: transparent"][/TD]
[TD="class: xl66, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]78[/TD]
[TD="class: xl67, bgcolor: transparent"]17.3[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]18[/TD]
[TD="class: xl66, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]50[/TD]
[TD="class: xl67, bgcolor: transparent"]11.1[/TD]
[TD="class: xl66, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]74[/TD]
[TD="class: xl67, bgcolor: transparent"]16.4[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]19[/TD]
[TD="class: xl66, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]47[/TD]
[TD="class: xl67, bgcolor: transparent"]10.6[/TD]
[TD="class: xl66, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]70[/TD]
[TD="class: xl67, bgcolor: transparent"]15.5[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]20[/TD]
[TD="class: xl66, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]45[/TD]
[TD="class: xl67, bgcolor: transparent"]10.0[/TD]
[TD="class: xl66, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]66[/TD]
[TD="class: xl67, bgcolor: transparent"]14.7[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]22[/TD]
[TD="class: xl66, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]41[/TD]
[TD="class: xl67, bgcolor: transparent"]9.1[/TD]
[TD="class: xl66, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]60[/TD]
[TD="class: xl67, bgcolor: transparent"]13.4[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]24[/TD]
[TD="class: xl66, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]38[/TD]
[TD="class: xl67, bgcolor: transparent"]8.4[/TD]
[TD="class: xl66, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]55[/TD]
[TD="class: xl67, bgcolor: transparent"]12.2[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]26[/TD]
[TD="class: xl66, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]35[/TD]
[TD="class: xl67, bgcolor: transparent"]7.7[/TD]
[TD="class: xl66, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"][/TD]
[TD="class: xl67, bgcolor: transparent"][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]30[/TD]
[TD="class: xl66, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]30[/TD]
[TD="class: xl67, bgcolor: transparent"]6.7[/TD]
[TD="class: xl66, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"][/TD]
[TD="class: xl67, bgcolor: transparent"][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]34[/TD]
[TD="class: xl66, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"]27[/TD]
[TD="class: xl67, bgcolor: transparent"]5.9[/TD]
[TD="class: xl66, width: 64, bgcolor: transparent"][/TD]
[TD="class: xl67, bgcolor: transparent"][/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
08-19-15, 04:37 PM
#14
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planetary 2 speed cranks change the gear ratio without moving the chain ,
the 1 chainring moves at a different rate than the crankarms.
and by being a internal gear, shifts when not pedaling .. arrive at a stop in high an while waiting for the green light,
shift to low for the start off.
another approach,
Dual drive rear hubs combine an internal 3 speed and a cassette the front shift is easier with a IGH ,
up or down is instantaneous
the 1 chainring moves at a different rate than the crankarms.
and by being a internal gear, shifts when not pedaling .. arrive at a stop in high an while waiting for the green light,
shift to low for the start off.
another approach,
Dual drive rear hubs combine an internal 3 speed and a cassette the front shift is easier with a IGH ,
up or down is instantaneous
08-19-15, 04:49 PM
#15
Banned
maybe the way a derailleur drive train functions is not intuitive for Her , maybe an Alfine 11 speed IGH will be simpler
all ratios are sequential like a 1 x with a cassette , but will shift when you let up on the power a bit, or stop pedaling or at a full stop.
all ratios are sequential like a 1 x with a cassette , but will shift when you let up on the power a bit, or stop pedaling or at a full stop.
08-19-15, 04:54 PM
#16
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We owned a Bianchi Milano 8 speed for a couple of years. The shifting was as intuitive as one could imagine. Just a single gripshift with an 8 Speed IGH. For some reason, she didn't like the 8 speed IGH. Complained every time she rode that bike. Replaced the Bianchi with her Jamis, which she loves (even if she never gets out of the middle chainring).
08-19-15, 05:19 PM
#17
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I take it her bike has a drop bar handlebar?
Does she use the drops?
How would she feel about a flatbar setup?
The reason I ask is that you can get a Shimano 42T cassette(11-42) in 11 speed that whilst not cheap, won't break the bank, along with other 11 speed gear.
Does she use the drops?
How would she feel about a flatbar setup?
The reason I ask is that you can get a Shimano 42T cassette(11-42) in 11 speed that whilst not cheap, won't break the bank, along with other 11 speed gear.
08-19-15, 07:31 PM
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I take it her bike has a drop bar handlebar?
Does she use the drops?
How would she feel about a flatbar setup?
The reason I ask is that you can get a Shimano 42T cassette(11-42) in 11 speed that whilst not cheap, won't break the bank, along with other 11 speed gear.
Does she use the drops?
How would she feel about a flatbar setup?
The reason I ask is that you can get a Shimano 42T cassette(11-42) in 11 speed that whilst not cheap, won't break the bank, along with other 11 speed gear.
08-19-15, 07:57 PM
#19
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Unless you're in the Driftless Region:
The Toughest One-Day Challenge Ride in the Midwest - Horribly Hilly Hundreds - Blue Mounds, WI
A friend of mine lives right around there, goes out hill climbing for fun.
The Toughest One-Day Challenge Ride in the Midwest - Horribly Hilly Hundreds - Blue Mounds, WI
A friend of mine lives right around there, goes out hill climbing for fun.
08-19-15, 08:25 PM
#20
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Might I suggest a Doval elliptical 34T chainring with 16% ovality?
Link here:
MTB 34T 16 5 OCP Mode BCD104 SNW Single Doval Elliptical Oval Chainring 3 | eBay
(looks like they've got a clearance sale on)
Basically you swap out your triple for the single Doval, and keep using the 8 speed cassette.
The 34T is a MTB single chainring. Since it is not a perfect circle the rider feels a changing resistance with position of the crank.
Since the 34T has 16% ovality, you can align the crank in a way that on the downstroke it will feel like a 31T chainring (34 minus 8%), but actually you get the gear inches equivalent of a 34T.
So though the 34T actually gives you a gear inch range of 35 to 76, when climbing it will feel more like you've got 32.2 gear inches.
It's also easier on the knees since it smoothens out the stroke speed.
Since the 34T is for MTBs I guess you'll need to change crank as well to fit. Doval also seems to be selling regular triple replacements (35T @110mm BCD) here:
Raod Inner BCD110 34T 35T 36T 38t BCD130 39T 40T 12 1 13 5 Doval Chainring | eBay
Link here:
MTB 34T 16 5 OCP Mode BCD104 SNW Single Doval Elliptical Oval Chainring 3 | eBay
(looks like they've got a clearance sale on)
Basically you swap out your triple for the single Doval, and keep using the 8 speed cassette.
The 34T is a MTB single chainring. Since it is not a perfect circle the rider feels a changing resistance with position of the crank.
Since the 34T has 16% ovality, you can align the crank in a way that on the downstroke it will feel like a 31T chainring (34 minus 8%), but actually you get the gear inches equivalent of a 34T.
So though the 34T actually gives you a gear inch range of 35 to 76, when climbing it will feel more like you've got 32.2 gear inches.
It's also easier on the knees since it smoothens out the stroke speed.
Since the 34T is for MTBs I guess you'll need to change crank as well to fit. Doval also seems to be selling regular triple replacements (35T @110mm BCD) here:
Raod Inner BCD110 34T 35T 36T 38t BCD130 39T 40T 12 1 13 5 Doval Chainring | eBay
08-19-15, 09:01 PM
#21
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Might I suggest a Doval elliptical 34T chainring with 16% ovality?
Link here:
MTB 34T 16 5 OCP Mode BCD104 SNW Single Doval Elliptical Oval Chainring 3 | eBay
(looks like they've got a clearance sale on)
Basically you swap out your triple for the single Doval, and keep using the 8 speed cassette.
The 34T is a MTB single chainring. Since it is not a perfect circle the rider feels a changing resistance with position of the crank.
Since the 34T has 16% ovality, you can align the crank in a way that on the downstroke it will feel like a 31T chainring (34 minus 8%), but actually you get the gear inches equivalent of a 34T.
So though the 34T actually gives you a gear inch range of 35 to 76, when climbing it will feel more like you've got 32.2 gear inches.
It's also easier on the knees since it smoothens out the stroke speed.
Since the 34T is for MTBs I guess you'll need to change crank as well to fit. Doval also seems to be selling regular triple replacements (35T @110mm BCD) here:
Raod Inner BCD110 34T 35T 36T 38t BCD130 39T 40T 12 1 13 5 Doval Chainring | eBay
Link here:
MTB 34T 16 5 OCP Mode BCD104 SNW Single Doval Elliptical Oval Chainring 3 | eBay
(looks like they've got a clearance sale on)
Basically you swap out your triple for the single Doval, and keep using the 8 speed cassette.
The 34T is a MTB single chainring. Since it is not a perfect circle the rider feels a changing resistance with position of the crank.
Since the 34T has 16% ovality, you can align the crank in a way that on the downstroke it will feel like a 31T chainring (34 minus 8%), but actually you get the gear inches equivalent of a 34T.
So though the 34T actually gives you a gear inch range of 35 to 76, when climbing it will feel more like you've got 32.2 gear inches.
It's also easier on the knees since it smoothens out the stroke speed.
Since the 34T is for MTBs I guess you'll need to change crank as well to fit. Doval also seems to be selling regular triple replacements (35T @110mm BCD) here:
Raod Inner BCD110 34T 35T 36T 38t BCD130 39T 40T 12 1 13 5 Doval Chainring | eBay
Andy.
08-19-15, 09:54 PM
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08-19-15, 09:59 PM
#23
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Why not leave it in the small front chainring ? Does that give her a big enough gear for flats and downhills ? Does she coast down hills and not need a big gear ?
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08-19-15, 10:40 PM
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Being a classic kind of rider I loth the spin killing nature of non round rings. It seems that some sort of oval, egg shaped, bio Qed rings come on the market every generation. Yet the test of time brings things back to round.
Really, no kidding, if clover shaped rings do it then more power to you. But those who find that for the long term are few and far between. Andy.
Really, no kidding, if clover shaped rings do it then more power to you. But those who find that for the long term are few and far between. Andy.
08-20-15, 01:18 AM
#25
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This would depend on the design of the ring.
Early non-round rings were designed to take advantage of the increased leverage (when the crank is about 90 degrees during the power phase) to push through the major radius (more resistance) part of the ring. The minor radius would conversely be nearer to the dead spot, so that would be relatively easier to spin through.
The trouble was that the rider would compensate for this increased resistance and take on a lot of stress in the knee.
Modern day non-round rings like the Doval are designed in the opposite way. Basically it is the minor radius that is aligned with the power phase and major radius at the dead spot. The rider would build that spin momentum during the power phase and use it to get through the major radius and dead spot.
So in effect modern non-round rings are easier that regular rings on the knees and designed for spinning. Some even say that they feel "rounder", for whatever that opinion might be worth.
I suggested the non-round ring as a means to reduce the resistance felt when climbing hills. Basically a 34T elliptical ring (aligned in the proper way) should feel easier to climb with than a 34T round ring - all other things remaining equal.
Early non-round rings were designed to take advantage of the increased leverage (when the crank is about 90 degrees during the power phase) to push through the major radius (more resistance) part of the ring. The minor radius would conversely be nearer to the dead spot, so that would be relatively easier to spin through.
The trouble was that the rider would compensate for this increased resistance and take on a lot of stress in the knee.
Modern day non-round rings like the Doval are designed in the opposite way. Basically it is the minor radius that is aligned with the power phase and major radius at the dead spot. The rider would build that spin momentum during the power phase and use it to get through the major radius and dead spot.
So in effect modern non-round rings are easier that regular rings on the knees and designed for spinning. Some even say that they feel "rounder", for whatever that opinion might be worth.
I suggested the non-round ring as a means to reduce the resistance felt when climbing hills. Basically a 34T elliptical ring (aligned in the proper way) should feel easier to climb with than a 34T round ring - all other things remaining equal.