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Needle tip for grease gun for speedplay x/2?

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Needle tip for grease gun for speedplay x/2?

Old 09-20-15, 07:52 PM
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Needle tip for grease gun for speedplay x/2?

I tried the syringe on new (to me) X/2s that were dry as a bone. I have used a syring successfully with old x/2s. But while this succeeded in getting a bare amount of grease into the pedals, it is not adequate. I can't get enough to squirt out the other side. It's still spinning too freely.

I bought a grease gun, but the applicator tip is so large, it won't fit in next to the grease port. So do I need a needle tip for this gun? I see on amazon you can buy something for $15, but I want a cheaper solution. Ideas?
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Old 09-20-15, 08:11 PM
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Amazon.com: Plews 05-037 Grease Injector Needle: Automotive

Try your local auto parts store
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Old 09-20-15, 08:55 PM
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I have two different conical needles for my Phil guns. (And one on a Duralco thumb pump gun). One is a thread on type, replacing the Zerk female fitting stock on the gun. the other is a slip into the female Zerk fitting but with a outer sleeve that surrounds the nipple. Both work, Both were gotten through supply stores. I like the thread in one as it's easier to remove, believe it or not. With these needled guns one can really press the needle against the pedal cap's conical hole very tightly. Even still expect a bunch of "blow back". The Speedplays have a lot of tight fitting seals. Andy.
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Old 09-20-15, 09:51 PM
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The 18g needle adapter might work, but the angled sharp tip probably won't seal very well. A small conical tip such as https://www.amazon.com/Lincoln-Lubric...rease+gun+tips
or Amazon.com: Lumax LX-1415 Silver 3-5/8" Needle-Type Adapter: Automotive
would work well and give a slightly better seal. If you look at auto parts stores, you should find something similar to these
local to you. The one I found just screws onto the end of the metal tube after you unscrew the standard zerk adapter
typically supplied on grease guns.

The 18g needle is smaller than the grease port in the pedal body and with the bevel you end up with a lot of grease exiting elsewhere.
You could grind the bevel off maybe.
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Old 09-21-15, 08:34 AM
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Agree with A Stewart and the needles sch linked to. Just add grease slowly with lots of pressure against the grease hole and spin the pedal slowly at the same time. Have towels ready and cover the floor under the pedal while injecting the grease. Mine have always bled a little grease out the seals on the first couple of rides so make sure your cleats don't have grease on them when you walk across your carpet.
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Old 09-21-15, 10:43 PM
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Ok, I got the cone tip attachment at an auto shop. I have a VERY snug fit with the grease port. Yet there is no improvement. I am getting zero grease out the other side of the pedal and it's still spinning way too freely. Now I don't know what to do.

And yes, I have done this procedure with syringe in other pair of X/2s that worked fine and all the bad grease came out. It's like there is no pathway for the grease to move. Like it's blocked, or it's pressurized in there and can't release out the back side.
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Old 09-21-15, 10:52 PM
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If done carefully it is easy enough to completely disassemble Speedplays. This way you can clean all of the parts and 're-grease the bearings. You can contact Speedplay directly if any new parts are needed.
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Old 09-22-15, 04:44 AM
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You could have a bunch of crud inside. Just take the pedal apart and clean everything out by hand. Doesn't take but a minute.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ssvNBR-VwWM
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Old 09-22-15, 09:19 AM
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Speedplay recommends that I inject the grease through the hole in the dust cover (to help build pressure). And that I slowly spin the pedal as I inject, because the cartridge bearing thingies (or whatever) can be lined up so as to block any grease from coming in, when in certain configurations.

Also they said that if I want to dissemble the pedal, that when removing the spindle screw I should heat up that screw for a minute with a soldering iron. So that I don't break off the screw due to resin/locktite that is used to secure it. Presumably I would need to use locktite when putting it back in. Hoping to avoid all of that.
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Old 09-22-15, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Lazyass
This is what you're hoping to avoid? Less than 2 minutes of work?

Take the things apart already. If you think there is crud in yours then blow it out with something high pressure, then regrease. I'd just suggest taking it apart though.
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Old 09-22-15, 09:55 AM
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This is what I have been using on my X/2's for at least 10 years. I use Superlube grease (Harbor freight) and the finishline (older model) grease gun

Finish Line - Bicycle Lubricants and Care Products - Grease Injection Pump Gun
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Old 09-22-15, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by corrado33
This is what you're hoping to avoid? Less than 2 minutes of work?

Take the things apart already. If you think there is crud in yours then blow it out with something high pressure, then regrease. I'd just suggest taking it apart though.
Yes, I would prefer to avoid messing with thread locking, etc. I'm going to try greasing first, and if that works, stop. If it fails, I will take it apart. I shared the information for others, that it might prove useful.
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Old 09-22-15, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Secret Squirrel
This is what I have been using on my X/2's for at least 10 years. I use Superlube grease (Harbor freight) and the finishline (older model) grease gun

Finish Line - Bicycle Lubricants and Care Products - Grease Injection Pump Gun
I use that exact one on my pedals. Bought it at Performance.
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Old 09-22-15, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by mikewaters
Yes, I would prefer to avoid messing with thread locking, etc. I'm going to try greasing first, and if that works, stop. If it fails, I will take it apart.
But you said you tried regreasing, couldn't get it to inject and then you stated you didn't know what to do. So we suggested the only single other thing there is to do. It takes a fraction of a second to put a drop of threadlock on a screw.
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Old 09-22-15, 10:12 AM
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My pedals are so old that they didn't come with the grease port. They used a fitting that was inserted temporarily in place of the cap. I eventually bought the replacement grease port caps for a few dollars. Recently replaced all of the bearings in 3 sets of X/2 pedals. With a little maintenance, these pedals keep going for years.
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Old 09-22-15, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Secret Squirrel
My pedals are so old that they didn't come with the grease port. They used a fitting that was inserted temporarily in place of the cap. I eventually bought the replacement grease port caps for a few dollars. Recently replaced all of the bearings in 3 sets of X/2 pedals. With a little maintenance, these pedals keep going for years.
Tell me more about this....so you took off the dust cover. And where the grease port should be, was just a screw? You can't inject into a screw. I wonder if that's what I am trying to do.
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Old 09-22-15, 10:51 AM
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The pedal end cap has a countersunk Philips screw. Remove the screw and insert the grease gun tip into the screw hole. The bearings are non shielded and will allow the new grease to enter from the grease port, push the old grease and exit from the other side of the pedal.
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Old 09-27-15, 09:32 AM
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Mine is a torx screw that has NO port. That's why grease wasn't entering. And unfortunately stripped while I was removing it. More fun.
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Old 09-27-15, 02:18 PM
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Before I switched to all Frogs, I had 3 sets of X pedals, bought several years apart. One of the Frogs was bought ~2000, and one or two X pedals were
that vintage as well. None of these early Speedplay pedals had the removable screw, but it was trivial to take a small drill bit, open the hole and put
a short selftapping flat head screw in, which allowed use of the grease gun. I also have one of the small Finishline grease guns that does screw onto
a tube of Phil grease, but use my big grease gun mostly as the Phil tube is about empty. A 14 oz tube of grease will last decades in this service, and
costs less than a 3 oz tube of any bike grease.

Last edited by sch; 09-27-15 at 02:22 PM.
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