Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Mystery popping sounds

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Mystery popping sounds

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 09-22-15, 11:27 AM
  #1  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Nashville TN
Posts: 180

Bikes: 2011 Giant Seek 1, 1995 Mongoose Alta, 2002 Raleigh M80, 2014 Scott Metrix 40, 1999 Trek 820

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Mystery popping sounds

Hi folks. I need help.
I am at my wits end on this one. About a week ago my Scott Metrix 40 started to make popping sounds while riding it. It currently has about 1200 miles on it. The sounds seem to come from the front of the bike like the front wheel but you know how that goes. The sound is not exactly rhythmic meaning it does not happen with every rotation of the wheel or anything like that. It does not happen when necessarily peddling but will happen when I push down on the handle bars. This had lead me to suspect the front wheel or headset which is thread less. However, it seems not to be so.

The sound is a random popping that occurs while I ride and increases when I peddle but does not exactly stop once I stop peddling. As I said I can press down on the front bars while riding and make the sound. I can sometimes make it pop when turning the handle bars which once again makes me think of the front being the issue.

I have checked out many things looking for this cracking sound. Here is the list:

1. I tightened the nipples on the front wheel.
2. I trued the front wheel
3. I oiled the nipples
4. I oiled the overlapping points where the spokes meet
5. I placed paper on the overlapping points where the spokes meet
6. I tightened the back wheel spokes
7. I trued the back wheel
8. I checked the chainring bolts and they were tight
9. I tightened the bottom bracket
10. I removed the front wheel and was actually able to install it on a 26in mountain bike to see if the popping was there- it was not therefore I ruled out the front wheel.
11. I did the same with the rear wheel and ruled it out as well.
12. I tore down the front head set and cleaned and re-greased it
13. I changed the adjustments on the tension screw tighter and looser to see it that would affect the popping sound. Once again no luck.
14. I checked for a crack in the front rim but as I said I ruled out the wheels.
15. I checked the face plate holding the handle bars and it was tight.
16. I tightened the seat post screw.

I have did a general check of the frame for a crack and also a general check of the fork for a crack but nothing like an intense check. I would hope that not to be the case. Does anyone have any clue as to what I am missing???? Any questions???

Last edited by Bikerdave222; 09-22-15 at 11:31 AM.
Bikerdave222 is offline  
Old 09-22-15, 11:35 AM
  #2  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Nashville TN
Posts: 180

Bikes: 2011 Giant Seek 1, 1995 Mongoose Alta, 2002 Raleigh M80, 2014 Scott Metrix 40, 1999 Trek 820

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I am wondering if it could be the compression ring on the headset? Just a thought.
Bikerdave222 is offline  
Old 09-22-15, 12:22 PM
  #3  
Mechanic/Tourist
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Syracuse, NY
Posts: 7,522

Bikes: 2008 Novara Randonee - love it. Previous bikes:Motobecane Mirage, 1972 Moto Grand Jubilee (my fave), Jackson Rake 16, 1983 C'dale ST500.

Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 486 Post(s)
Liked 11 Times in 11 Posts
Have you had anyone else, specifically a mechanic, check over the bike in person? Difficult problems are not more easily solved when one cannot use touch or hearing. If it were me I'd pay someone to find the problem. Shops have a lot more flexibility when it comes to being able to switch out parts.
cny-bikeman is offline  
Old 09-22-15, 12:30 PM
  #4  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Nashville TN
Posts: 180

Bikes: 2011 Giant Seek 1, 1995 Mongoose Alta, 2002 Raleigh M80, 2014 Scott Metrix 40, 1999 Trek 820

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by cny-bikeman
Have you had anyone else, specifically a mechanic, check over the bike in person? Difficult problems are not more easily solved when one cannot use touch or hearing. If it were me I'd pay someone to find the problem. Shops have a lot more flexibility when it comes to being able to switch out parts.
I might have to resort to that however hitting up the forum is the next step before the shop.
Bikerdave222 is offline  
Old 09-22-15, 02:26 PM
  #5  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Nashville TN
Posts: 180

Bikes: 2011 Giant Seek 1, 1995 Mongoose Alta, 2002 Raleigh M80, 2014 Scott Metrix 40, 1999 Trek 820

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I guess everyone else is stumped too!
Bikerdave222 is offline  
Old 09-22-15, 03:10 PM
  #6  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 2,266
Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 714 Post(s)
Liked 800 Times in 475 Posts
Clicking or popping when you press on the handlebars is usually the stem/handlebar/steerer interface. It can be as simple as some dirt that got in between the stem and a spacer. Clicking or popping noises when turning the bars would make me suspect cable housing ends where they enter the stops near the head tube.
dsaul is offline  
Old 09-22-15, 03:22 PM
  #7  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Morris County, NJ
Posts: 1,102

Bikes: 90's Bianchi Premio, Raleigh-framed fixed gear, Trek 3500, Centurion hybrid, Dunelt 3-spd, Trek 800

Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2167 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by dsaul
Clicking or popping when you press on the handlebars is usually the stem/handlebar/steerer interface.
I had this problem when I installed a stem that was slightly too small for the head tube. Lots of clicking and creaking. I remedied it 99% by shimming the stem with sheet aluminum, but it still can make a slight click if I stress the bars on a hill climb. What I neglected to do is grease the mating surfaces of the stem and expansion wedge; it's the probable source of the remaining noise. Some day I'll get around to it.
habilis is offline  
Old 09-22-15, 06:41 PM
  #8  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Nashville TN
Posts: 180

Bikes: 2011 Giant Seek 1, 1995 Mongoose Alta, 2002 Raleigh M80, 2014 Scott Metrix 40, 1999 Trek 820

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by dsaul
Clicking or popping when you press on the handlebars is usually the stem/handlebar/steerer interface. It can be as simple as some dirt that got in between the stem and a spacer. Clicking or popping noises when turning the bars would make me suspect cable housing ends where they enter the stops near the head tube.
I have just thought of something similar to that. Well maybe the same thing. I am going to try and look at the mating surfaces where the fork meets the stem tube.
Bikerdave222 is offline  
Old 09-23-15, 12:50 AM
  #9  
Senior Member
 
DannoXYZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Saratoga, CA
Posts: 11,736
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 109 Post(s)
Liked 9 Times in 6 Posts
Do you have torque-wrench? Too much or too little torque on headset, handlebar, or stem interfaces can cause these kinds of noises.
DannoXYZ is offline  
Old 09-23-15, 10:07 AM
  #10  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Nashville TN
Posts: 180

Bikes: 2011 Giant Seek 1, 1995 Mongoose Alta, 2002 Raleigh M80, 2014 Scott Metrix 40, 1999 Trek 820

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ
Do you have torque-wrench? Too much or too little torque on headset, handlebar, or stem interfaces can cause these kinds of noises.
Yes I do. I have tightened it up to 5 n/m as it states on the stem. I have gone through a range of adjustments on the tension screw although I have not tightened it real tight. It was a lot tighter from the factory than I had expected. I might try tightening it a lot and see if that works.
Bikerdave222 is offline  
Old 09-23-15, 02:00 PM
  #11  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Morris County, NJ
Posts: 1,102

Bikes: 90's Bianchi Premio, Raleigh-framed fixed gear, Trek 3500, Centurion hybrid, Dunelt 3-spd, Trek 800

Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2167 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by Bikerdave222
Yes I do. I have tightened it up to 5 n/m as it states on the stem. I have gone through a range of adjustments on the tension screw although I have not tightened it real tight. It was a lot tighter from the factory than I had expected. I might try tightening it a lot and see if that works.
If you have an expansion wedge on the end of your stem (holding it inside the head tube), do not over-tighten! You'll split the tube. If your creak is due to friction between the wedge and stem, the only real solution is to undo the stem bolt, pull the wedge out with the stem, and grease the mating surfaces. A little movement between those surfaces is inevitable, but you can still reduce or eliminate the noise with lube.
habilis is offline  
Old 09-23-15, 03:39 PM
  #12  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 2,266
Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 714 Post(s)
Liked 800 Times in 475 Posts
Originally Posted by habilis
If you have an expansion wedge on the end of your stem (holding it inside the head tube), do not over-tighten! You'll split the tube. If your creak is due to friction between the wedge and stem, the only real solution is to undo the stem bolt, pull the wedge out with the stem, and grease the mating surfaces. A little movement between those surfaces is inevitable, but you can still reduce or eliminate the noise with lube.
The OP's bike has a threadless headset, not a quill stem.
dsaul is offline  
Old 09-23-15, 04:58 PM
  #13  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Morris County, NJ
Posts: 1,102

Bikes: 90's Bianchi Premio, Raleigh-framed fixed gear, Trek 3500, Centurion hybrid, Dunelt 3-spd, Trek 800

Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2167 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by dsaul
The OP's bike has a threadless headset, not a quill stem.
As usual, I'm living in the past.
habilis is offline  
Old 09-27-15, 09:57 AM
  #14  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Nashville TN
Posts: 180

Bikes: 2011 Giant Seek 1, 1995 Mongoose Alta, 2002 Raleigh M80, 2014 Scott Metrix 40, 1999 Trek 820

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Mystery popping sounds [UPDATE]!!

Well after doing all that I said I did and after working on the head tube and reworking the head tube and reworking the head tube some more I decided to ride the bike to work. Halfway in my 13 mile commute the popping sound STOPPED! I guess it needed a couple of good bumps to seat things in. Thanks all for your help.
Bikerdave222 is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
boozergut
Bicycle Mechanics
12
06-20-17 11:53 PM
valleyof
Bicycle Mechanics
4
04-18-15 05:29 PM
late
Bicycle Mechanics
13
04-05-13 07:44 AM
jpsawyer
Bicycle Mechanics
10
09-29-12 06:43 PM
siovene
Bicycle Mechanics
4
08-12-10 06:01 AM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.