Removing anti-seize
 

Hey Folks,

I wondering what the best method is for removing anti-seize compound from bottom bracket threads? I want to use loc-tite next time when I re-assemble it. Thanks!

You remove anti-seize the same way you're remove it's grease base. Best is a petroleum solvent, such as mineral spirits or naphtha on a rag or paper towel.

Just curious - is it an Italian or French thread? Because otherwise there should be no need to use Loctite.

Thanks, FB. I kinda figured that.

Enjoying my Chain-L, BTW. :thumb:

Nope, just common old British configuration. I want to use a lower fastening torque, hence the loc-tite.

When the time comes to remove that BB again, please post the video here.:D

Huh? You trying to tell me something?

BB threads have a hell of a lot of surface area for the loc-tite.
I would expect it would be a huge PITA to get apart.

Not much fun to clean up afterward, either.

Yeah, and for extra entertainment value, be sure to use 277 red, not that wimpy blue stuff.

Thanks for setting me straight, guys. 277 it is! :rolleyes:

Because the manufacturer's instructions are not good enough, right?

What is it with you lot? You want a fight?

Phil Wood sends a tube of loctite with there BBs.

If using loctite, red one will need heating up before removal. I'd go for blue one.

Unless threads are damaged, I'd put copper grease, not a thread locking glue. Especially for British thread.

If taking it off worries you - it will be easier than with loctite, in spite of higher torque used to fasten it.

If there's some other reason...

I guess the question should be asked. Why do you want to use a lower torque on your BB?

OK, so I installed a Shimano Ultegra 6500 Octalink BB on my "project bike". When I tightened it to Shimano's recommended torque (in the mid-range), the spindle got noticeably stiffer and harder to turn.

I contacted my old bike mechanic instructor, John Barnett, at the Barnett Bicycle Institute in Colorado Springs and this is what he said:


"We have found the top end of Shimano's recommend torque range to both be beyond the strength capacity of many individuals, and to be problematic in regard to creating a risk of deforming the aluminum cup splines on models such as the BB-6500.

......

Our published spec for the 6500 is the same as Shimano's lower value. I'd stick with what I said regarding relying on Loctite and sticking to the minimum torque (for the reasons I previously stated). So we recommend going with the 435in-lb value, with Loctite 242 used on the threads.

......

The binding problem is previously unheard of.

Assuming you rule out things like mismatched parts or cross-threaded parts, As a means of diagnosis, I would suggest:

1. Loosen the cup fully and see if the binding goes away. If not, the BB assembly is bad.
2. If the binding goes away, try installing the cup at 5ft-lb (60in-lb) increments (i.e., to 5ft-lbs, then 10ft-lbs, then 15ft-lbs, etc). At each tightening torque, inspect for the binding. Look for whether the symptom occurs suddenly, or whether it builds incrementally. If suddenly, at what torque level did it show up?

Then let me know what you learned, and we can take it from there."

Now it makes sense.

English threads will not come loose with time.

I use copper grease and tighten, not using maximum force. I never use torque wrenches, just the feel of hands. I suggest you give that method a try, then if it comes loose, it's never too late for thread locking glue.

Probably there's something wrong with your BB shell.

Yeah, perhaps. Nothing was obvious when I installed it.

I went around to my LBS and asked one of the mechanics. He said it was normal for the spindle to tighten up on the BB-6500 when installed. However I don't have a lot of faith in what any of the local mechanics have to say these days. I've been handed too much misinformation.