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Avoid chain checkers. Just get a nice ruler. Park has a nice one, but hard to read. I sanded off the blue on one side of mine to make reading easier.
Also measures spokes, bearings and cotters, should the need arise. Amazon.com: Park Tool Spoke, Bearing and Cottergauge: Sports & Outdoors |
There is chain wear, and then there is cog wear. IMO this bumps into the huge debate on how to lube the chain. All the strange ways to lube the chain can quickly wear out cogs or sprockets. Using a dry lube, or wax does not give proper lubrication to the cogs. This is why I say use oil on the chain, and it will lube the sprockets too. I personally use Mobil 1 and get outstanding mileage out of my chains.
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Originally Posted by bikerbobbbb
(Post 18236395)
Ok, so this is a purchase then (will be soon)...
Amazon.com : Park Tool CT-5 Mini Chain Brute Chain Tool : Bike Hand Tools : Sports & Outdoors Park Tool Mini Chain Brute Chain Tool - CT-5 And it sounds like I'll need to replace the rear cassette and front chain rings sometime. Two separate future projects I think. I'm stuck on which chain though for now. I'm thinking I might get two and just have the second one as backup. I could alternate them but realistically I'll just replace it when it breaks again. Ditto for the cassette and chain rings. I'd suggest a 8-speed chain that's made specifically for use with a triple crankset. KMC X8.93 chains have reinforced sideplates designed to take the side forces that are generated on drivetrains with triple cranksets. You can buy a new KMC X8.93 from multiple eBay Sellers for less than $12, including shipping. As for a chain tool, I recommend getting a larger one that the Park Tool compact CT-5. Modern chain designs have cross pins that are difficult to push in and out compared to old 5-speed straight cross-pins, and compact chain tools do not have the strength to push out the flared or mushroomed pins on modern chains. I owned a Park Tool CT-5 and it worked for years until I started working on KMC chains. After breaking a couple of KMC chains, the handle bent, and the frame started to tweeks. I traded the bent CT-5 back in at Performance Bicycle where I bought it, and got a Park Tool CT-3.2. It cost me about $35 (minus the cost/trade-in of the CT-5), and it is worth the extra money. Has a bigger frame that doesn't flex, and a longer thicker handle that hasn't bent (yet). KMC, and SRAM chains include a reusable link, so a chain breaker is not required to open the chain (chain breaker still required to shorten a new chain). Shimano chains still use a single use replacement pin (one included with each new chain). |
Originally Posted by AnkleWork
(Post 18244499)
The stream of unconsciousness continues unabated.
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Surprised someone hasn't mention it yet, or you haven't broken that chain, but you really (and I mean its a super bad idea almost enough to label this a Darwin Award) shouldn't be using a chain with a separated link. It will fail, more than likely at an inopportune time and you will very likely feel a sensation commonly referred to as PAIN and maybe worse.
Don't ride your ride until you replace that chain. |
BTW, I would expect your LBS to charge you extra just from the amount of filth that is built up.
Of course, if you clean your bike, you might find something else that is broken. |
Originally Posted by randomgear
(Post 18250294)
BTW, I would expect your LBS to charge you extra just from the amount of filth that is built up.
Of course, if you clean your bike, you might find something else that is broken. +1. Not so much directed at any one here but to all out there. I teach a few maintenance classes each year, shop and club. The cleaning thing I visit frequently and not because I think that one should "wear clean underwear not only when going to the doctor or on a date" but that by getting up close to your bike and touching it all over you both learn about it and start to understand it better. In time you begin to be able to recognize things before they become issues or broken parts. To continue the people analogies- Just like a relationship takes learning the other's manor having a reliable bike takes learning and maintaining too. When you pay others fix your relationship only when it has broken down the problem isn't what broke down, it's not paying attention to it before. Andy. |
ICTIAT,
Walk into any bike store, or your nearest full-sized walmart. Buy a chain. ANY 5-8 speed chain will do $9-$15 will get you as good or better than what came with the bike. Buy a Chain Tool. Break and remove the old chain. Scrub your nasty, filthy drivetrain with WD40 and an old toothbrush - you already have these things. Apply a real oil to them - if you have it. Shorten the new chain to the same length as the old. Use the included link and snap it in place. Open a beer. *In Case This Isn't A Troll |
After seeing the pic, why is anyone taking this question seriously? I mean, this here's just seriously funny and all but.....:banned:
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Regrouping again....
The cassette is probably the easiest part to replace. I think. Get an (exact) match, swap it in. It's also reversible. Chain -- I want to get two. One as a backup. There are some ideas for chains on here. Once I break the though, I could only shorten it a link a think. Somewhat reversible. Chain rings -- That's more involved. I'm thinking I'd need a new tool somewhere. I've got new pedals from when one pedal started creaking before. And I've got the tool for the pedal I'm pretty sure. I would think the pedal is just twisting off the old, twisting on the new. Once I start messing with the crankset stuff, at least for now, it's a lot less reversible. That's another situation where it has to be done right the first time. And I can't ride my bike until it's fixed. The right pedal started creaking. Bad bearings, something like that. That's happened before with other pedals. The next step up for pedals that didn't use bearings was $50+ with gold colored studs in them. Gaudy. It's gone away a bit, but the rear cassette, on the smaller cogs, weren't quite sticking a couple weeks ago. What would you recommend for a cassette? I need to research it more to see if I can find an exact match. My goal is just to replace things as closely with what's on there now. Exactly if I can. |
Collecting chain information....
8-speed chain that's made specifically for use with a triple crankset. KMC X8.93 chains have reinforced sideplates designed to take the side forces that are generated on drivetrains with triple cranksets. KMC X8.93 from multiple eBay Sellers for less than $12, including shipping. recommend getting a larger one that the Park Tool compact CT-5 recommends this one instead Park Tool CT-3.2 KMC, and SRAM chains include a reusable link, so a chain breaker is not required to open the chain (chain breaker still required to shorten a new chain). Shimano chains still use a single use replacement pin (one included with each new chain). Chain link tool I was looking at before.... http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Prof...ords=Park+CT-3 Park Tool Screw Type Chain Tool - CT-3 $28.43 http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-CC-3...KZYVAFDE3AD0HR Park Tool CC-3.2 Chain Wear Indica $10 -- Chain measuring tool I ran across. Might be to have but in the future. It's probably a safe bet that my chain is worn out. Another chain I found on Amazon with the model recommendation from here. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...iglink20253-20 SRAM PC 850 P-Link Bicycle Chain (8-Speed, Grey) $12.26 --------- A recommended cassette https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...17&category=42 Shimano CS-HG50 Sora 8 Speed Cassette $30 -- Lots of options here, like the spokes. Looks like they're counting teeth... Teeth and rings... ------------- A recommended crankset http://www.jensonusa.com/!-5PcBR6NZ9...tm_medium=AVLK Shimano Deore M610 Crankset out of stock I would need to check that my pedals fit that. And my crankset was discontinued. But it's 170mm. Here's another with a quick search. http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/u.../rp-prod106873 Shimano Deore M610 10 Speed Triple Chainset $65.49 Hm.... No cover on it to protect a pant leg? Might be a dumb question, but do these come with both "pedal arms?" It's only got the right side in these pics... I was picturing for a crankset that it's the left and right pedal arm, the three chain rings, and everything inside the bike frame between the pedal arms. Looks like this one comes in black or silver. Not a huge concern, but the option is nice. Cool, for showing the pieces... and holy cow for that price. http://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-Deore-.../dp/B00DU6OWE6 SHIMANO Deore M610 MTB Groupset Group Set 10 speeds 7pcs $246.95 ... because it's a "group set" ??? Shimano SM-BB51 Bottom Backet This might be the piece that goes through the frame of the bike.... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Shiman...-/141670481810 And this page lists the crankset as separate from the bottom bracket.... ... So if I'm only getting the crankset, that needs to match my current bottom bracket. This one just has crankset and bottom bracket. It looks like that left arm is included in the crankset then.... If the chain ring teeth are worn, I don't suppose there's a reason to replace the bottom bracket then...? Is this how the pedal arms attach? https://i.ytimg.com/vi/dHuXRHUCxsA/hqdefault.jpg Looks like it... at least the left one. I suppose if the crankset didn't come with a left pedal arm, as long as they're the same length/close enough, I could keep using the current left one. One less thing to mess with, one less potential screw up. Bottom Bracket Sealed cartridge from my specs page.... whatever this means. http://www.bikepedia.com/quickbike/B...del=Detour+4.5 BB Shell WidthUnspecified I wonder how the right crank arm/chain ring/pedal arm attaches to that bottom bracket.... Ah... There is a tool... http://www.amazon.com/BIKEHAND-Bicyc...ZWC3W96ZVYH2EY BIKEHAND Bike Bicycle Shimano Bottom Bracket Removal Remover Tool $7 Looks like the rear wheel cassette hub tool. Except I'm thinking I don't need to remove my bottom bracket or replace it. Hopefully. If I do, I do. If not, why mess with it? Another tool.... http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Pull...CVVAJZ64SGMQ7Q Park Tool Crank Puller for Square Taper Cranks $14 Ah, found the crankset on Amazon I think.... http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-FC-M61...ano+Deore+M610 Shimano FC-M610 42/32/24T 10-Speed Deore Crankset $62.58 + $32.91 shipping expensive shipping.... They never show the other side or a left pedal arm in these.... -- Says it include a bottom bracket.... Hollowtech II design includes bottom bracket (68/73mm) -- Does not include chainguard I wonder if I can get one separately and add it on. A chain guard is something I want. My pant leg will get greased for sure. My current chain guard is cracked. Metal might be good. Something tough. Replaceable would be good -- My bike tips over once in a while. I think that's how my current chain guard got cracked. Found one chain guard with a quick search. So they do exist separately.... http://www.amazon.com/FSA-Alloy-Cros...rds=chainguard FSA 42T Alloy Cross Chainring Guard (130mm BCD) $20 I'd need to research to find a match for my bike though. ----- The cassette is probably the simplest. Just a swap I think. But it might need grease. Some study to prep on that would be good, unless people here say it's just swapping parts. I wouldn't be surprised if something needs to be greased though. The chain takes a little more thought, but I've got links to videos here. The crankset I still need information on. I'm not sure how that's taken apart. I might need a special tool for that I would think. ========= My bike specs again.... http://www.bikepedia.com/quickbike/B...del=Detour+4.5 Chain KMC HG40, 1/2 x 3/32" Crankset Shimano FC-M191, 28/38/48 teeth This must be the cassette...? Rear Cogs 8-speed, 11 - 32 teeth --------------- The goal would be to get an exact or as close to exact match as possible. I'm thinking cassette and chain ring teeth. I don't want anything to move a little so that it requires adjusting the shifting settings. Because I don't know how to do that very well at all. If it's a match... Just swap in new parts and the settings should be about right still. Potentially I have a list of workable parts here... Cassette --- Need to check it's the right one and matches one -- teeth and rings. And check the general process for swapping one in (ie need to grease it?) Bike chain -- Need to check it's a match. Need to review how to swap in the chain, depending on which one I get. Crankset -- Need more info, but it's heading in the right direction. Left arm included? Need to change the bottom bracket? Any special tools? I need a chain guard too or definitely want one. Does it match my bike for sure? Process for replacing that? This can be done in steps. Cassette looks easiest. Then chain. Then crankset looks most challenging. But still probably all doable. Unless my bike dies now. Then I'd either walk, buy something as a temp fix, buy this stuff as a rushed purchase, or give up and take it to a bike shop to fix. I "want to" fix these myself, but time and energy aren't always there. I suppose the cost of driving a car would add up, compared to the cost of temp or rushed-purchase parts, and then compared to having a bike shop do the repair.... Although if a bike shop does it.... Say cassette $20, chain $15, cranket $70... ~$100 for parts... then labor... I would guess they'd charge $130-300 for this. Versus me doing this for $100-150 and having the improved learned skills and tools available for the next time. For sure, I'll need to know how to swap on a chain again in the future. The crankset and cassette (except cassette looks easy) is more of a 6-year fix thing I think. Or less if I replace the chain more often. Focus-wise... cassette and chain replacement. Then I can research the crankset more or I'll have more info from here by then. If I narrow in on the parts and process -- I may already have the parts here -- and get the chain tools.... I could have the cassette and chain swapped in in January 2016 without too much issue. ~4 hours on a weekend, moreso for the chain. I've already replaced spokes so the cassette looks very easy if it's just popping a new one in place of the old. |
In the time you've wasted searching the internet, copying links, and typing dozens of long repetitive posts, you could have fixed your bike by now.
Your chain is completely worn out and unsafe to ride. Do not ride your bike until the chain is replaced. Your chainrings (the large one at least, probably the middle one too) are completely worn out. A new chain will skip on those chainrings. Your cassette or freewheel is completely worn out too. A new chain will skip on that cassette or freewheel. You need to (1) replace chain, chainrings, and cassette or freewheel, (2) start regularly cleaning, lubricating, and replacing your chain, (3) learn to maintain your bike instead of riding it until things break. More generally, you need to get help in person (bike shop, bike co-op). It is impossible for anyone to help you via this forum. You write too much, don't write clearly, don't listen to/read responses, and seem to have trouble making decisions and taking action. |
Honestly, its time to just buy a new bike. Take all the money you were going to spend repairing, buy a brand new bike, then focus on properly maintaining that one.
Your drivetrain is 100% shot, you need a new crank, chain, cassette. Even cheap versions that's over $100 easy, and could easily hit more like $200 with tools etc, which is half the price of a decent new bike. Given the condition of those items, plus a balky pedal, I'm going to hazard a guess that the tires are done, the wheel bearings are in bad shape, and there's likely a few other issues with shifter cables and brakes. Think of it this way, your bike is the equivalent 1995 Chevy Cobalt with a blown motor and lots of rust. |
I'm also going to need to count teeth and measure (diameter?) on my cassette and chain rings... so I know they match up with what I'll purchase.
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The point with this bike is to replace everything. When I got it, they same the bike is the frame. Everything else can be repaired/replaced. If I do it myself it's cheaper. Plus, I've invested time in studying out my parts and figuring out how I repair things on this bike. I've got spare parts ready to go, brand new.
This is also writing to my future self. If things work, I've figured it out here. If they don't, I can go back and see where the error is. It is a slow process, but I don't want to waste money. Measure three times, cut once. That idea. The internet is full of gurus who can get insulted if you don't do what they say just because they say it. I need my own final stamp or approval before I attempt a repair and or buy things. I'm not convinced enough yet to do these fixes or spend money. Once I take the dive, like the spokes, then I've got that fix down. I'm very confident I can fix spokes on my bike now. My bike also has baskets, etc. I'd say it was more like $700 for everything. If I scrap that, then I'm starting over, looking for a new bike that matches me and my needs. And then I'll eventually run into these same issues -- exactly what parts do I have, how do I fix them, etc. It's still going to be cheaper to do this myself, and I'm still interested in it. I'll have the skill down (enough at least), the tools, and I'll know where my bike's at. I can't trust the first bike shop after the work they did. Tires, inner tubes... That I've got down. Those are less than six months old. What are the wheel bearings? |
Found this.
Fix your bike. Grease your bearings and change your freewheel. - All How often? "cleaned and repacked with grease every 500 miles" I'm pretty sure I ride my bike in worse shape and take care of less than others on this forum. The bike is just a means to get from Point A to B for me mainly, then some bike riding for fun, but that's become rare. My last bike I rode until it was literally falling apart -- The shifting part started falling off and that's when I gave up on it. I remember the same skipping with the gear teeth though. That was a throwaway bike though. I wanted something a little better, and then bike shop said how horrible my old bike brand was and that the only options they had were more expensive, but... A standard bike could have all its parts replaced. It's ridable enough for me. I'm only going about 6-8 mph I would guess on it. If it breaks down to the point I can't ride it, I can walk or drive (but then I'm paying for gas and putting wear and tear on my car). I'm not done with the bike yet. Someone mentioned that the bike is only really dead when the frame cracks. If the bike really is shot, then it's still useful for learning how to do these repairs. Maybe I'm throwing some money away, but I'm learning how to repair the bike. I'm more independent, less tied to a bike shop. How would I know if the wheel bearings need to be replaced or re-greased? That looks fairly straightforward the the instructable site, except for how to put bearing back in. This wouldn't be a project for now though, I think. If the wheel bearings don't get maintained, what happens? Something similar to the teeth on the cassette and chain rings wearing down? But it still could be just replacing a hub and axle to correct that? |
Originally Posted by bikerbobbbb
(Post 18408033)
Found this.
Fix your bike. Grease your bearings and change your freewheel. - All How often? "cleaned and repacked with grease every 500 miles" There's two main type of hubs: 1) Cup & cone -- Essentially loose ball-bearings where the hub forms the bearing races 2) Sealed bearing -- The whole assembly is just press-fit and easily replaced. Basically, larger versions of skateboard or rollerblade bearings. Cup & cone are actually pretty difficult to destroy, if the balls are pitted replace them, otherwise it's basically a clean thoroughly and re-pack with grease. Plenty of tutorials online. If the cones are pitted and rough, they can sometimes be replaced, but many times you're better off replacing the wheel entirely. Sealed bearing are even simpler to maintain, when they degrade, you simply replace the bearing entirely (cost ~$5 for a set). In your case, I recommend finding a good co-op who can help you work through these things. The other key thing is patience. More force usually only makes things worse. |
Thanks.
HubsFront: Joytech Alloy QR according to my bike's spec page. 2009 Raleigh Detour 4.5 - BikePedia The rear one I had upgraded... I've got that hub model/number on another thread in here. Here it is... Shimano Rear hub, Fh-2200 36H Silver Exact current rear wheel hub for sure. Nice.... Specs sheet for my hub. (Forces a download of a pdf.) https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...YaC86A&cad=rja si.shimano.com/php/download.php?file=pdf/ev/EV-FH-2200-2202B... I must have an unsealed one for the rear wheel hub. I knew I just typed sealed today... But this is the bottom bracket. I imagine that needs cleaning and grease too at some point. Bottom Bracket Sealed cartridge from my specs page.... whatever this means. http://www.bikepedia.com/quickbike/B...del=Detour+4.5 BB Shell Width Unspecified |
Read this start to finish..... laughed my *its off all the way :-)
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This reminds me of Dr. House trolling the medical internet forums for "Diagnose Me!"
Change the chain on your bike. That link that sticks out like a nipple will cause it to skip and might even break a tooth. Chain rings are expensive. and if your crankset is riveted together... well let's just say cranksets are even more expensive. Buy a chain with a master link, 7/8 speed SRAM. Cost around 15 bucks or less, and you have multiple attempts to get the length right because of the master link. Though I don't know how hard it is to measure a chain and another chain together side by side. *Masterlinks work with female and female ends of the chain with the masterlink being the male ends completing the chain. Don't forget to pass the new chain through the front derailleur. :notamused: That's a derp. Remember the golden rule that you can only cut once. Better to cut long than short. Oh yeah, you need a chain breaker tool. You're up to 25-30 dollars. Don't ride until you get that fixed. |
Another recommendation on a crankset set. I'm doubting these are too variable/unique.
[QUOTE=Marcus_Ti;18636568]This is one of those instances where the parts to repair the part most likely cost more than a replacement assembly. A comparable 3x8 crankset in that gearing is $35USD http://www.jensonusa.com/!6pN!kqhOx7F1TxQ1x8NwQg!/Shimano-Acera-M361-Square-Crankset?avad=55963_daee4662&rpi=41227&utm_medium=AVLK Shimano Acera M361 Square Crankset $36 Another sign that that the cassette and chain rings are worn.... Around this part of the video the guy refers to something that happened to me. https://youtu.be/Bbk5RcH0bbQ?t=445 I got my bike fixed and adjusted at my local bike shop, years ago. They were finished. I took it out for a test ride (good to do because I wasn't completely trusting them -- Take it for a test ride after they say they repaired it. Then come back and let them know how it went or have them fix it better if it's not working.). I noticed the shifting didn't work quite right, so I took it back to the shop several times. Like 5-6 times. Done? Great.. Let me actually test that out... Nope, the shifting is isn't working right. Can you tweak that a bit? 5-6 times. I imagine I annoyed them a bit, but if I paid for it to be adjusted, shouldn't everything work when they're finsihed? What I noticed was that it shifted one way on whent hey had the bike on the stand. When I'm actually riding it, I'm putting a lot more pressure ont he pedals though. That's what I was thinking at the time. It works on the stand, but with some weight on the pedals the situation is different and the shifting performs differently. Here it is. And this was the other recommended crankset on here. http://www.jensonusa.com/!-5PcBR6NZ9...tm_medium=AVLK Shimano Deore M610 Crankset Item #: CR221A10 The left side is still unknown to me. If I'm replacing the right side, I'd want to replace the left pedal arm too to match them in terms of wear. I think that's just buying a left pedal arm though. |
Regrouping again.
I need parts now. I think I've got all the tools I'll need to replace the chain ring (right now for sure, eventually left; already have the pedal wrench), chain, and cassette. I still need to actually count cogs, etc. on my current stuff... just to do. Crankset -- plus left crank/pedal arm, plus guard Shimano Acera M361 Square Crankset > Components > Drivetrain > Cranksets | Jenson USA Shimano Acera M361 Square Crankset $36 - right chain ring/crank arm only, no left arm not sure where I got this one... http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=sr_1_1&sr=8-1 Shimano M171 Mountain Bicycle Crankset - w/Chainguard - FC-M171 ~$25 Shimano Deore M610 Crankset > Components > Drivetrain > Cranksets | Jenson USA Shimano Deore M610 Crankset ? no price, still available? Was $50 before I see in my notes. - probably out of stock again on Amazon... Amazon.com : Shimano FC-M610 42/32/24T 10-Speed Deore Crankset : Sports & Outdoors $105 found another Shimano Deore before though.... Shimano Deore M610 10 Speed Triple Chainset | Chain Reaction Cycles Shimano Deore M610 10 Speed Triple Chainset $75 Price went up. I'm doubting it will be these Deore's though. I have a feeling they're not a correct match. Plus, they're 2x+ as much as the others. ======================================== Chain -- need two Looked interesting before, need to check more http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...1&sr=8-1-spell Shimano CN-HG40 Hyperglide Chain $13 https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...12&category=61 Sram PC-850 Chain $13 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=sr_1_1&sr=8-1 SRAM PC 850 P-Link Bicycle Chain (8-Speed, Grey) $14 "ANY 5-8 speed chain will do $9-$15 " "8-speed chain that's made specifically for use with a triple crankset. KMC X8.93 chains have reinforced sideplates designed to take the side forces that are generated on drivetrains with triple cranksets. KMC X8.93 from multiple eBay Sellers for less than $12, including shipping." "KMC, and SRAM chains include a reusable link, so a chain breaker is not required to open the chain (chain breaker still required to shorten a new chain). Shimano chains still use a single use replacement pin (one included with each new chain). " If helpful KMC Chain - Bicycle Chains - Road Mountain Cyclocross BMX Fixie Track ======================================== Cassette https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...17&category=42 Shimano CS-HG50 Sora 8 Speed Cassette $23...? ======================================== my bike specs... 2009 Raleigh Detour 4.5 - BikePedia Crankset Shimano FC-M191, 28/38/48 teeth Bottom Bracket Sealed cartridge BB Shell Width Unspecified Rear Cogs 8-speed, 11 - 32 teeth Chain KMC HG40, 1/2 x 3/32" ============= More. I think this chain is looking good. http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-FC-M31...p_89%3AShimano Shimano Altus FC-M311 Altus square taper chainset, 8-speed, 48 / 38 / 28T, black, 170 mm $55 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...70WAVA8XCW6K8F KMC X8.93 Bicycle Chain 7.3mm 6, 7, 8 Speed $11 Chain Color: SilverChain Color: Silver/Dark SilverChain Compatibility: 3/32"Chain Length: 116Chain Width: 7.1mmWeight: 315g KMC 6-8 Speed Chains. |
My current crankset:
http://bike.shimano.com/media/techdo...9830657743.pdf Shimano FC-M191 48 - 38 - 28 T 170 mm pedal thread is 9/16" ??? rear sprockets 8/7/6 ??? Mine would be 8 I guess. counting cassette rings cassette = 8 rings. 1 largest = 32 points 2 26 points 3 21 points ? 4 5 6 7 12 8 smallest 11 looks like it matches bike specs... Rear Cogs 8-speed, 11 - 32 teeth matching cassette? https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...17&category=42 Shimano CS-HG50 Sora 8 Speed Cassette 11-32t (11-13-15-18-21-24-28-32) $18 Our Item #: 12017-181727 Mfg#: ECSHG508132P UPC: 689228103184 ? Amazon.com : Shimano HG51 8-Speed Cassette : Bike Cassettes And Freewheels : Sports & Outdoors Shimano HG51 8-Speed Cassette $21.53 ??? what's the difference between HG50 and HG51? I've got no spec on my bike pdf except 8 rings and the teeth. ------------- And a yes for 48 -- 38 -- 28 points on the chain rings. I checked. Matches bike specs. Shimano FC-M191 48 - 38 - 28 T |
Found the crankset I think. It's one mentioned on this forum, but now I've looked a bit. It was tougher to find a crankset than I expected. I still don't feel like I've looked at them all to get a feel for the options available, but this should be good enough.
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-FC-M36...ano+Acera+M361 $43.79 170mm 48 38 28 with chainguard square has left arm in pic chain rings are bolted on, so I could swap out just the rings later I believe. And then it's just narrowing in the cassette and chain exactly. |
Originally Posted by bikerbobbbb
(Post 18704675)
And then it's just narrowing in the cassette and chain exactly.
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Originally Posted by bikerbobbbb
(Post 18704675)
And then it's just narrowing in the cassette and chain exactly.
http://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-me...hain-ring.html http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...70WAVA8XCW6K8F chain is $11 cassettes are all $22 or less. All 11-32. Take your pick based on look. You want shiny, nickel, or black finish? They will all get the job done. There is no massive performance difference. They all install the same and all will turn the wheel when you pedal. http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-HG-CAS.../dp/B0065FBLNO http://www.amazon.com/SRAM-PG850-8-S.../dp/B003WOQ5DM http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-HG31-S.../dp/B01CPNI8LC http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-HG-50-.../dp/B00E8ZZTXG |
Thanks. I was thinking these, but I'll look over those too.
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-148710...ct_top?ie=UTF8 Shimano CN-HG40 Hyperglide Chain $13 silver 116 links uses a pin, has only one pin with it from reviews Shimano HG-40 8-Speed Chains. Item Specifications: Color Black, Weight 350g, Width 7.4mm, Links 116links, Number of Speeds 8-Speed, Chain Compatibility 3/32", Defined Color Black. https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...17&category=42 Shimano CS-HG50 Sora 8 Speed Cassette $18 11-32t (11-13-15-18-21-24-28-32) Our Item #: 12017-181727 Mfg#: ECSHG508132P UPC: 689228103184 And some of these. I read the chain listed above only has one pin. Unless I can get just spare pins somewhere.... These might be useful as insurance/temporary for what happened with my current chain -- Just pop out those links and slip this one. Maybe. http://www.amazon.com/KMC-MISSING-Bi...g+link+8+speed KMC MISSING LINK II Bicycle Chain Link (7 and 8-Speed, 6-Pairs) $7 |
Whew! Mission accomplished -- I have all new teeth and a new chain on my bike.
Replaced: Rear cassette, front chain rings (which meant crankset, but not the bottom bracket). Today I got the new chain on finally. Went well... until the end. Then it became a *****, but I stuck with with it. Popped the old chain off without breaking my chain tool. Done. Easy enough. Measured the old and new chains. 114 links used on the old one. New one was 116 links so just two spare links. Interestingly enough, They were the same length overall since the old one stretched out. Tried using my Park chain measuring tool. Got confused and gave up. It's a new chain. Good enough. Threaded the chain back on, got out the Shimano pin. Checked a couple youtube videos to make sure I was going to crack off the correct part. One half has a narrow end to feed it in. The other is squared off (the part that stays). Carefully lined it all up. (And that stuff does not line up very easily at all even with the tool. I'd be willing to buy another tool that lined everything up perfectly over how this worked overall. I needed a third hand.) The narrow end went through. Then... Ping! The Shimano pin cracked in half. Maybe it's like that...? So I check the youtube videos. Nope. And it wouldn't make sense to have a narrow end on one part of the pin. So then I spent maybe 30 min trying t oget the fat pin that's supposed to go there pushed in. But nothing would line up. I used the chain tool to push the narrow end almost all the way out. Then I ended up using pliers to squish the chain itself in a better position -- The outer part was slightly off from the inner part so the fat pin piece wouldn't go in. After 30+ attempts of lining it up, it finally actually lined up and I could push the fat pin in. I was concerned about the chain tool itself breaking again. I was glad I had a second whole new chain available too because that has another Shimano pin. I'm getting more though. I found them finally. After the fat pin was in, I had to wiggle the chain a bit side to side to loose it up. It was way too tight. But it did loosen up again. Pin ends looked as flush as the other pins on the chain. Lubed it all up. Did a test ride. Very nice... except I've got residual stress from that busted Shimano pin. Up until that pin snapped in half I was thinking it was all going pretty easy. This is exactly why slow is better. Planned out is better. Having plenty of spare and doing research is better. It's nice and smooth now. No chain skipping. None of the "new teeth, but old chain" slight clicking sound that was going on. Shifting is still a little off but it's good enough for now. And I still need to fix the dishing on the rear wheel. That only makes it more of a pain to not be able to spin the rear wheel freely. Teeth/chain-wise, worth it. 9 months or so after I realized what was going on, it's fixed. I've got the knowledge on how my bike works though now and a little more skill on doing these repairs. All done by myself with advice from here. All parts picked by me with adivce from here. It would have been faster to have the bike shop do it. Probably cheaper too since I bought tools to do these repairs that cost more then the bike shop. But I also avoiding giving them my business after how they treated me in the past and the so-so rear wheel hub issue I discovered. Now I can do the repairs again myself though. And I've got a second chain. Next summer I can probably swap that in. |
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Lubed it all up. Did a test ride. Very nice... except I've got residual stress from that busted Shimano pin. http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=525590 Get rid of the Shimano pin and the half link it's in and replace it. A mis-installed pin can fail catastrophically and take out the rear derailleur, break the der hanger, and possibly pull the now destroyed der into into the spokes of the rear wheel destroying that, too. Besides, it is now possible to take the chain off for cleaning every 200 - 1000 miles, which is a good idea. Oh, and no stress which is a really good thing. |
Ya, you need a new chain, and it shouldn't take 9 months to install.
From the description of your chain installation, I wouldn't ride the bike. |
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