Found this.

Fix your bike. Grease your bearings and change your freewheel. - All
How often?
"cleaned and repacked with grease every 500 miles"


I'm pretty sure I ride my bike in worse shape and take care of less than others on this forum. The bike is just a means to get from Point A to B for me mainly, then some bike riding for fun, but that's become rare. My last bike I rode until it was literally falling apart -- The shifting part started falling off and that's when I gave up on it. I remember the same skipping with the gear teeth though. That was a throwaway bike though. I wanted something a little better, and then bike shop said how horrible my old bike brand was and that the only options they had were more expensive, but... A standard bike could have all its parts replaced. It's ridable enough for me. I'm only going about 6-8 mph I would guess on it. If it breaks down to the point I can't ride it, I can walk or drive (but then I'm paying for gas and putting wear and tear on my car). I'm not done with the bike yet. Someone mentioned that the bike is only really dead when the frame cracks. If the bike really is shot, then it's still useful for learning how to do these repairs. Maybe I'm throwing some money away, but I'm learning how to repair the bike. I'm more independent, less tied to a bike shop.


How would I know if the wheel bearings need to be replaced or re-greased? That looks fairly straightforward the the instructable site, except for how to put bearing back in. This wouldn't be a project for now though, I think. If the wheel bearings don't get maintained, what happens? Something similar to the teeth on the cassette and chain rings wearing down? But it still could be just replacing a hub and axle to correct that?

500 miles is almost certainly over-kill, unless you're riding in winter conditions, and even then probably overkill. For most people, greasing hubs is probably an every 1-3 years type thing. Even most mountain bikers only do this annually. Most hubs are remarkably robust. The biggest thing is that over time the grease dries out, and contaminates get in. This is the road forum, there are many people here who average 500 mi a month, and they aren't re-packing anywhere near that frequently.

There's two main type of hubs:
1) Cup & cone -- Essentially loose ball-bearings where the hub forms the bearing races
2) Sealed bearing -- The whole assembly is just press-fit and easily replaced. Basically, larger versions of skateboard or rollerblade bearings.

Cup & cone are actually pretty difficult to destroy, if the balls are pitted replace them, otherwise it's basically a clean thoroughly and re-pack with grease. Plenty of tutorials online. If the cones are pitted and rough, they can sometimes be replaced, but many times you're better off replacing the wheel entirely.

Sealed bearing are even simpler to maintain, when they degrade, you simply replace the bearing entirely (cost ~$5 for a set).

In your case, I recommend finding a good co-op who can help you work through these things. The other key thing is patience. More force usually only makes things worse.

Thanks.

HubsFront: Joytech Alloy QR
according to my bike's spec page.
2009 Raleigh Detour 4.5 - BikePedia


The rear one I had upgraded...
I've got that hub model/number on another thread in here.
Here it is...
Shimano Rear hub, Fh-2200 36H Silver
Exact current rear wheel hub for sure.

Nice.... Specs sheet for my hub. (Forces a download of a pdf.)
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...YaC86A&cad=rja

si.shimano.com/php/download.php?file=pdf/ev/EV-FH-2200-2202B...

I must have an unsealed one for the rear wheel hub.



I knew I just typed sealed today... But this is the bottom bracket. I imagine that needs cleaning and grease too at some point.
Bottom Bracket Sealed cartridge from my specs page.... whatever this means.
http://www.bikepedia.com/quickbike/B...del=Detour+4.5
BB Shell Width Unspecified

Read this start to finish..... laughed my *its off all the way :-)

This reminds me of Dr. House trolling the medical internet forums for "Diagnose Me!"

Change the chain on your bike. That link that sticks out like a nipple will cause it to skip and might even break a tooth. Chain rings are expensive. and if your crankset is riveted together... well let's just say cranksets are even more expensive.

Buy a chain with a master link, 7/8 speed SRAM. Cost around 15 bucks or less, and you have multiple attempts to get the length right because of the master link. Though I don't know how hard it is to measure a chain and another chain together side by side. *Masterlinks work with female and female ends of the chain with the masterlink being the male ends completing the chain.
Don't forget to pass the new chain through the front derailleur. :notamused: That's a derp.

Remember the golden rule that you can only cut once. Better to cut long than short. Oh yeah, you need a chain breaker tool. You're up to 25-30 dollars.
Don't ride until you get that fixed.

Another recommendation on a crankset set. I'm doubting these are too variable/unique.

[QUOTE=Marcus_Ti;18636568]This is one of those instances where the parts to repair the part most likely cost more than a replacement assembly.

A comparable 3x8 crankset in that gearing is $35USD
http://www.jensonusa.com/!6pN!kqhOx7F1TxQ1x8NwQg!/Shimano-Acera-M361-Square-Crankset?avad=55963_daee4662&rpi=41227&utm_medium=AVLK
Shimano Acera M361 Square Crankset
$36

Another sign that that the cassette and chain rings are worn....
Around this part of the video the guy refers to something that happened to me.
https://youtu.be/Bbk5RcH0bbQ?t=445
I got my bike fixed and adjusted at my local bike shop, years ago. They were finished. I took it out for a test ride (good to do because I wasn't completely trusting them -- Take it for a test ride after they say they repaired it. Then come back and let them know how it went or have them fix it better if it's not working.). I noticed the shifting didn't work quite right, so I took it back to the shop several times. Like 5-6 times. Done? Great.. Let me actually test that out... Nope, the shifting is isn't working right. Can you tweak that a bit? 5-6 times. I imagine I annoyed them a bit, but if I paid for it to be adjusted, shouldn't everything work when they're finsihed? What I noticed was that it shifted one way on whent hey had the bike on the stand. When I'm actually riding it, I'm putting a lot more pressure ont he pedals though. That's what I was thinking at the time. It works on the stand, but with some weight on the pedals the situation is different and the shifting performs differently.


Here it is.

And this was the other recommended crankset on here.
http://www.jensonusa.com/!-5PcBR6NZ9...tm_medium=AVLK
Shimano Deore M610 Crankset
Item #: CR221A10

The left side is still unknown to me. If I'm replacing the right side, I'd want to replace the left pedal arm too to match them in terms of wear. I think that's just buying a left pedal arm though.

Regrouping again.

I need parts now. I think I've got all the tools I'll need to replace the chain ring (right now for sure, eventually left; already have the pedal wrench), chain, and cassette.

I still need to actually count cogs, etc. on my current stuff... just to do.



Crankset -- plus left crank/pedal arm, plus guard
Shimano Acera M361 Square Crankset > Components > Drivetrain > Cranksets | Jenson USA
Shimano Acera M361 Square Crankset
$36
- right chain ring/crank arm only, no left arm


not sure where I got this one...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=sr_1_1&sr=8-1
Shimano M171 Mountain Bicycle Crankset - w/Chainguard - FC-M171
~$25


Shimano Deore M610 Crankset > Components > Drivetrain > Cranksets | Jenson USA
Shimano Deore M610 Crankset
? no price, still available? Was $50 before I see in my notes.
- probably out of stock again
on Amazon...
Amazon.com : Shimano FC-M610 42/32/24T 10-Speed Deore Crankset : Sports & Outdoors
$105

found another Shimano Deore before though....
Shimano Deore M610 10 Speed Triple Chainset | Chain Reaction Cycles
Shimano Deore M610 10 Speed Triple Chainset
$75 Price went up.

I'm doubting it will be these Deore's though. I have a feeling they're not a correct match. Plus, they're 2x+ as much as the others.


========================================

Chain -- need two
Looked interesting before, need to check more
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...1&sr=8-1-spell
Shimano CN-HG40 Hyperglide Chain
$13


https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...12&category=61
Sram PC-850 Chain
$13


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=sr_1_1&sr=8-1
SRAM PC 850 P-Link Bicycle Chain (8-Speed, Grey)
$14

"ANY 5-8 speed chain will do $9-$15 "

"8-speed chain that's made specifically for use with a triple crankset.
KMC X8.93 chains have reinforced sideplates designed to take the side forces that are generated on drivetrains with triple cranksets.
KMC X8.93 from multiple eBay Sellers for less than $12, including shipping."

"KMC, and SRAM chains include a reusable link, so a chain breaker is not required to open the chain (chain breaker still required to shorten a new chain). Shimano chains still use a single use replacement pin (one included with each new chain). "


If helpful
KMC Chain - Bicycle Chains - Road Mountain Cyclocross BMX Fixie Track


========================================

Cassette
https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...17&category=42
Shimano CS-HG50 Sora 8 Speed Cassette
$23...?

========================================
my bike specs...
2009 Raleigh Detour 4.5 - BikePedia
Crankset Shimano FC-M191, 28/38/48 teeth
Bottom Bracket Sealed cartridge
BB Shell Width Unspecified
Rear Cogs 8-speed, 11 - 32 teeth
Chain KMC HG40, 1/2 x 3/32"
=============
More. I think this chain is looking good.
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-FC-M31...p_89%3AShimano
Shimano Altus FC-M311 Altus square taper chainset, 8-speed, 48 / 38 / 28T, black, 170 mm
$55

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...70WAVA8XCW6K8F
KMC X8.93 Bicycle Chain 7.3mm 6, 7, 8 Speed
$11
Chain Color: SilverChain Color: Silver/Dark SilverChain Compatibility: 3/32"Chain Length: 116Chain Width: 7.1mmWeight: 315g
KMC 6-8 Speed Chains.

My current crankset:
http://bike.shimano.com/media/techdo...9830657743.pdf
Shimano FC-M191
48 - 38 - 28 T
170 mm
pedal thread is 9/16"
??? rear sprockets 8/7/6 ??? Mine would be 8 I guess.




counting cassette rings
cassette = 8 rings.
1 largest = 32 points
2 26 points
3 21 points ?
4
5
6
7 12
8 smallest 11

looks like it matches bike specs... Rear Cogs 8-speed, 11 - 32 teeth


matching cassette?
https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...17&category=42
Shimano CS-HG50 Sora 8 Speed Cassette
11-32t (11-13-15-18-21-24-28-32)
$18
Our Item #:
12017-181727
Mfg#:
ECSHG508132P
UPC:
689228103184


?
Amazon.com : Shimano HG51 8-Speed Cassette : Bike Cassettes And Freewheels : Sports & Outdoors
Shimano HG51 8-Speed Cassette
$21.53
??? what's the difference between HG50 and HG51?

I've got no spec on my bike pdf except 8 rings and the teeth.



-------------
And a yes for 48 -- 38 -- 28 points on the chain rings. I checked. Matches bike specs.
Shimano FC-M191
48 - 38 - 28 T

Found the crankset I think. It's one mentioned on this forum, but now I've looked a bit. It was tougher to find a crankset than I expected. I still don't feel like I've looked at them all to get a feel for the options available, but this should be good enough.

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-FC-M36...ano+Acera+M361
$43.79
170mm 48 38 28
with chainguard
square
has left arm in pic
chain rings are bolted on, so I could swap out just the rings later I believe.



And then it's just narrowing in the cassette and chain exactly.

That shouldn't take more than 5 or 6 more forum pages to resolve.

Its been narrowed down already.
http://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-me...hain-ring.html

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...70WAVA8XCW6K8F chain is $11


cassettes are all $22 or less. All 11-32. Take your pick based on look. You want shiny, nickel, or black finish? They will all get the job done. There is no massive performance difference. They all install the same and all will turn the wheel when you pedal.
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-HG-CAS.../dp/B0065FBLNO
http://www.amazon.com/SRAM-PG850-8-S.../dp/B003WOQ5DM
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-HG31-S.../dp/B01CPNI8LC
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-HG-50-.../dp/B00E8ZZTXG

Thanks. I was thinking these, but I'll look over those too.

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-148710...ct_top?ie=UTF8
Shimano CN-HG40 Hyperglide Chain
$13
silver
116 links
uses a pin, has only one pin with it from reviews
Shimano HG-40 8-Speed Chains. Item Specifications: Color Black, Weight 350g, Width 7.4mm, Links 116links, Number of Speeds 8-Speed, Chain Compatibility 3/32", Defined Color Black.


https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...17&category=42
Shimano CS-HG50 Sora 8 Speed Cassette
$18
11-32t (11-13-15-18-21-24-28-32)
Our Item #:
12017-181727
Mfg#:
ECSHG508132P
UPC:
689228103184



And some of these. I read the chain listed above only has one pin. Unless I can get just spare pins somewhere.... These might be useful as insurance/temporary for what happened with my current chain -- Just pop out those links and slip this one. Maybe.

http://www.amazon.com/KMC-MISSING-Bi...g+link+8+speed
KMC MISSING LINK II Bicycle Chain Link (7 and 8-Speed, 6-Pairs)
$7

Whew! Mission accomplished -- I have all new teeth and a new chain on my bike.

Replaced: Rear cassette, front chain rings (which meant crankset, but not the bottom bracket).

Today I got the new chain on finally. Went well... until the end. Then it became a *****, but I stuck with with it.

Popped the old chain off without breaking my chain tool. Done. Easy enough.

Measured the old and new chains. 114 links used on the old one. New one was 116 links so just two spare links. Interestingly enough, They were the same length overall since the old one stretched out.

Tried using my Park chain measuring tool. Got confused and gave up. It's a new chain. Good enough.

Threaded the chain back on, got out the Shimano pin. Checked a couple youtube videos to make sure I was going to crack off the correct part. One half has a narrow end to feed it in. The other is squared off (the part that stays).

Carefully lined it all up. (And that stuff does not line up very easily at all even with the tool. I'd be willing to buy another tool that lined everything up perfectly over how this worked overall. I needed a third hand.) The narrow end went through. Then... Ping! The Shimano pin cracked in half. Maybe it's like that...? So I check the youtube videos. Nope. And it wouldn't make sense to have a narrow end on one part of the pin. So then I spent maybe 30 min trying t oget the fat pin that's supposed to go there pushed in. But nothing would line up. I used the chain tool to push the narrow end almost all the way out. Then I ended up using pliers to squish the chain itself in a better position -- The outer part was slightly off from the inner part so the fat pin piece wouldn't go in. After 30+ attempts of lining it up, it finally actually lined up and I could push the fat pin in. I was concerned about the chain tool itself breaking again. I was glad I had a second whole new chain available too because that has another Shimano pin. I'm getting more though. I found them finally. After the fat pin was in, I had to wiggle the chain a bit side to side to loose it up. It was way too tight. But it did loosen up again. Pin ends looked as flush as the other pins on the chain.

Lubed it all up. Did a test ride. Very nice... except I've got residual stress from that busted Shimano pin. Up until that pin snapped in half I was thinking it was all going pretty easy. This is exactly why slow is better. Planned out is better. Having plenty of spare and doing research is better.

It's nice and smooth now. No chain skipping. None of the "new teeth, but old chain" slight clicking sound that was going on. Shifting is still a little off but it's good enough for now.

And I still need to fix the dishing on the rear wheel. That only makes it more of a pain to not be able to spin the rear wheel freely.

Teeth/chain-wise, worth it. 9 months or so after I realized what was going on, it's fixed. I've got the knowledge on how my bike works though now and a little more skill on doing these repairs. All done by myself with advice from here. All parts picked by me with adivce from here. It would have been faster to have the bike shop do it. Probably cheaper too since I bought tools to do these repairs that cost more then the bike shop. But I also avoiding giving them my business after how they treated me in the past and the so-so rear wheel hub issue I discovered. Now I can do the repairs again myself though.

And I've got a second chain. Next summer I can probably swap that in.

Better. Go online and buy one or more of those little removable chain links of the size appropriate to the number of gears you have from KMC, SRAM, Wipperman, et al.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=525590

Get rid of the Shimano pin and the half link it's in and replace it. A mis-installed pin can fail catastrophically and take out the rear derailleur, break the der hanger, and possibly pull the now destroyed der into into the spokes of the rear wheel destroying that, too. Besides, it is now possible to take the chain off for cleaning every 200 - 1000 miles, which is a good idea.

Oh, and no stress which is a really good thing.

Ya, you need a new chain, and it shouldn't take 9 months to install.
From the description of your chain installation, I wouldn't ride the bike.

Bobbb, I nominate you for "troll of the year" award. In 9 months, you've managed to post about 15 times about a 5 minute repair! In 1/10 of the time you've wasted posting your prattle here, you could've:

1: bought a new set of chainrings
2: bought a new cassete
3: bought a new chain, and
4: installed them

Freeing up time for you to waste on more worthwhile pursuits, like trainspotting, Morris dancing, or attending Star Trek conferences. Instead, you waste time and bandwidth, proving to all here that you are mechanically incompetent, write poorly, and have problems with prioritizing. You talk, but you don't listen. In the end, if a truck backs up and runs over your bike, it will be doing both yourself and all of us a big favor.

And this isn't the only thread he's started on a simple, easy to understand topic with his endlessly repeating the same lack of comprehension of the answers he's given. What I don't understand is why the rest of the forum members keep feeding this absurdity. For that matter, why am I still following this one?

(sticks fingers in ears, and closes eyes)

Nyah,nyah,nyah........I can't HEAR you............

Oh, sweet bejeezus-this guy can sure bury a simple little problem into tons and tons of extraneous minutiae! Wow, if there was EVER a poster or a thread that deserves a simple "tl;dr", it's this one! Holy Toledo!!!!!!

Thwack!

That's me slapping myself in the forehead.

@#$%^&* I saw a thread, clicked on the "unread posts" button and somehow didn't notice it was Bobbb.

I KNOW better than to wade into these things.

But, Alex, I do think you should be careful what you suggest. I'm sure that in a few months there are going to be Morris Dancers afflicted with endless questions about equipment problems like bells slipping down to ankles and sticks cracking and such.

So, might as well revive this one.

My Trek 7100 commuter has been giving me some annoyance lately with chain skip. 4.5 miles each way weekdays, plus some errands and weekend riding, so call it 60 miles/week on average.

New Weinmann freehub rear wheel, including SunRace 7sp cassette in late June or early July. New chain in early September, and all new cables around the same time. Seems to be skipping on cogs 2, 3 and 4 regardless of which chainring, only within the last couple of weeks. It's not consistent, either; one climb it will skip every 2-3 pedal revolutions, and another similar climb five minutes later it may not skip at all. One day it will skip ridiculously often, and the next day only once or twice in two miles of climbing.

Is it possible the chain is already shot? (It is a Bell from Wally World, since the last one developed a very tight link about a half mile uphill from WM. Unfortunately, that's the only place I can get supplies during the week, and the new "bike shop" in town hasn't been reliable on their claimed Saturday hours. Will likely order a few next time I decide to replace it.) Anything else I should check since the only parts of the drivetrain that aren't under 6mo/1500mi old are the chainrings and the derailleurs themselves?

Good move. It's not as though there are many other threads which already addressed your questions thoroughly and clearly (without four pages of trolling). I'm sure you'll get many useful answers soon.

Oh, for the love of god, WHY did you reopen THIS thread????