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Cold setting frame on the bike stand

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Cold setting frame on the bike stand

Old 10-10-15, 06:32 PM
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Paramount1973 
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Cold setting frame on the bike stand

I had need of cold setting the rear dropouts on an older Bianchi mtb from about 129 to 135mm. I have used the Sheldon Brown 2x4 method but dislike having to do it on the floor, plus it's..a bit exciting to perform. It seemed to me that if I could reinforce one side of the rear triangle or the other, I could do this on the bike stand and still preferentially apply more force to one side or the other in a controlled way. I decided to use a section of 2x4 as the reinforcement with the ends of the 2x4 resting on the headtube and rear dropout and the middle of the 2x4 clamped to the seat tube. I used a section of wood with a concave groove to spread out the clamping force on the seat tube. This worked well, especially in spreading the drive side chainstay which resisted the force of the spreading more than the non-drive side stay.

Below, the 2x4 is clamped in place on the non-drive side and I am spreading the drive side stay with a wooden jaw clamp.

Untitled by galoot_loves_tools, on Flickr

Below is a closer photo of the clamp arrangement on the seat tube.

Untitled by galoot_loves_tools, on Flickr
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Old 10-10-15, 07:48 PM
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unterhausen
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I need to respace a bike down from 140 to 120. I think it might have been 120 to begin with. Can't get the bb out, that's normally how I would hold it. So I guess I'm going to end up doing something like this
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Old 10-10-15, 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by unterhausen View Post
I need to respace a bike down from 140 to 120. I think it might have been 120 to begin with. Can't get the bb out, that's normally how I would hold it. So I guess I'm going to end up doing something like this
I overspread the drive side stay and squeezed with a bar clamp instead of spreading as shown. Worked fine.
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Old 10-11-15, 06:51 AM
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At the bike co-op where I worked we had a Craftsman machinist vise (about $90 in 1975) mounted to a very secure bench. We mounted the BB shell in it to do rear triangle work. Before we acquired that I used to grab the head tube and rear dropout, with my foot on the BB, to move the stays. Ah, to be young again.
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Old 10-11-15, 08:37 AM
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At home I use a vice to secure the shell and then just pry with a long bar (wood). For thin wall seat tubes I add a tube block to prevent denting. At work I remove the pedals and place the frame on the floor then pry bar it. (This allows the Bb to remain in place). Andy.
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Old 10-11-15, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart View Post
At home I use a vice to secure the shell and then just pry with a long bar (wood). For thin wall seat tubes I add a tube block to prevent denting. At work I remove the pedals and place the frame on the floor then pry bar it. (This allows the Bb to remain in place). Andy.
I have also clamped a frame by the bottom bracket shell but with this method, I can leave the crankset, derailleurs, etc. on the bike.
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Old 10-11-15, 12:29 PM
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I've used threaded rod with 2-3 washers on each side of the dropout between nuts (to keep things aligned) and just moved the nuts a bit at a time to cold set. Takes a bit longer, but worked fairly well and allowed me to keep things straight (as shown by strings).
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Old 10-11-15, 12:40 PM
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Just that clamp is adjusted by turning the handles like twisting a screwdriver.. hope you have a strong grip..
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Old 10-11-15, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
Just that clamp is adjusted by turning the handles like twisting a screwdriver.. hope you have a strong grip..
Greasing the clamp threads helps, but yes, I have good grip strength.
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Old 10-12-15, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by himespau View Post
I've used threaded rod with 2-3 washers on each side of the dropout between nuts (to keep things aligned) and just moved the nuts a bit at a time to cold set. Takes a bit longer, but worked fairly well and allowed me to keep things straight (as shown by strings).
+1

I am not sure that it takes longer though.

I lubricate the threaded rod, and use knobs with internal nuts - there is very little torque required.
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