Headset bearing maintenance
 

Is there any maintenance to be done on the headset bearings. I know on my old huffy I removed the bearings and repacked them. Is there anything to be done on my new bike. Are they all sealed now? I have a 2006-07 not sure exactly giant cypress dx and a 8 year old specialized crossroads. Thanks in advance!

Some used cartridge (sealed) bearings, and are basically non-serviceable except for adjustment. Many are still classic cup/cone types like you had before, and should be cleaned and repacked once in a while depending on mileage and riding conditions.

IMO= just about all can benefi from an improvised boot to keep dirt and rain out of the lower bearing. The upper seems to hold up well without extra help.

Is there anyway to tell if it is a cup type without taking it apart? There are no problems currently but I am doing some long needed maintenance on both bikes.

Sometimes you can tell visually, but the only reliable way to know is by looking up the specs for the particular model. Otherwise, you don't know until you look inside.

Where would you find the specs? Bikepedia doesn't say

Somethings you have to do for yourself. You can search for the specs by bike and model year, or maybe the headset has markings.

Of you can stand the bike up on the floor so the fork doesn't drop, remove the top cap and stem, and gently and carefully lift the upper bearing cover and peek inside. Don't lift it far enough for the balls to drop out, and you won' be committed to replacing loose balls if you don't want to.

OR

You can leave well enough alone if the steering is tight and turns smoothlyr

Thanks for the advice. Unfortunately, I never leave well enough alone. Ask my wife. I guess it's time to start digging.

If your headset does NOT have a large lock nut at the top with flats for a big wrench, I don't see how it could be cup-and-cone (loose ball bearings). The nut is needed for locking the cones in place after adjustment.

With the front wheel off the ground, turn the steering to either side and check for slow or notchy movement.

If you have the big nut right where the handle bar stem begins, place a large box lid under the bike to catch any loose balls that may fall out. If they don't hit the floor or become contaminated with dirt, balls in good condition may be reused if you are just doing a check.

Loosen the nut and push it up the stem and out of the way (maybe hold it up with tape). Lift the upper cup and inspect the balls. This will at least tell you the condition of the upper bearing. If there's enough grease and the bearing has been turning smoothly, maybe leave well enough alone for now. In any case, you've worked on this type of bearing and will know what to do.

We see many forks/headsets dry of any lube but what came in the actual bearing from it's original manufacturer. We usually open them up because of complaints of clicks and creaks. Often the bearings are still in good condition (although some are so rusted...) and only a need of cleaning the mating surfaces and applying a film of grease during reassembly. But without taking the time and effort to take things apart no real understanding, WRT condition, can be made. Additionally there are bearing "cartridges" which are just preassembled cup and cone designs with none of the nicer features of what many will think of "sealed bearing". These bearings can be easily separated into their inner, outer and rolling elements with only a knife to pry off the seals. So even a manufacturer's claim of sealed bearings isn't a complete understanding without further info or investigation. Andy.

A stem with a pinch bolted binder slot does a very good job at maintaining any bearing pre load that the compression cap has provided. This is what a threadless headset is. Independent of the bearing design or it's contact angle, seal presence and or how the bearings are seated. Andy.

I just serviced my headset (on my '99 Schwinn Moab) last night for the first time ever. Never done it before. It has cartridge bearings in the headset. I carefully pried the seals off to get to the balls. The bearings were in good shape, but lacking, IMO, sufficient grease. I disassembled everthing, cleaned/degreased all parts. Repacked the bearings. Reassembled everything. Only had one mishap: I "opened" up one of the bearings too much and all the balls fell out. It was quite difficult to get them back in, but I did it.

I was nervous initially, not having experience doing this, but glad I risked it. One more thing I can take care of myself.

Thanks for the great info.

If Loose ball , Toss the balls Buy new ones they Dont cost Much, New .. just get the same size..

Headsets develop "indexed" steering, which occurs when there is insufficient bb lubrication (a complex subject). There's grease in the headset, but not where it is needed - between the bb and the race. Servicing the headset periodically can alleviate this issue, but how often is enough? It likely would need to be more often that practical. Having lost sleep over this, I rotate the fork 360° every 200 miles (admittedly arbitrary, but I do it when I lube the chain)*. This changes the bb's position on the race, and, hopefully, lubricates the interface between bb & race. Additionally, I service the headset (disassemble and regrease) q 5k miles.

*on my bikes, this requires loosening the stem (threaded headsets), disconnecting the front brake, detaching the computer mount from the handlebars, and then rotating the fork 360° while the handlebars remain unturned. (always rotate the fork in the same direction for best results) It's easy!

You've likely assumed by now (if you're still reading this) that I'm a semi-retired nerd who likes to maintain my bikes. You are correct! I'm not a pro bike mechanic.

Wow, I don't go to that extent but I do enjoy maintenance. I love to tinker