Nineball

Hi all,

I bought a Scott road bike that'd been left outside for far too long (the brakes, chain and cables had rusted up and seized), so that I could rebuild it for casual riding.

I've been trying to get the forks off to inspect the headset and bearings, but no matter how much force apply I can't get the forks to slip out, and I tried pulling on the top spacer of the headset (I think that's what it is - I don't know too much about modern road components) with vice grips, but just ended up gouging it without being able to remove it.

Am I missing something here, or is it just rusted together?

Also, is this an integrated or internal headset? It says 'FSA' on the other side.



Thank you!

Andrew R Stewart 

Most likely the corrosion is locking the upper race and spacers tight on the steerer. At some point one has to accept replacing parts (like the fork possibly, depends on the amount of corrosion on the steerer and/or the blades). So I'd go to cutting off the spacer with a hacksaw running diagonally and likely cutting into the top race a bit. With care it's possible to cut most of the spacer wall away without touching the steerer and then crack open the remaining with a screwdriver twisting in the new slot. Once the spacer is removed I'd retry whacking the steerer top end and/or try prying out the tapered/compression wedge. Don't be surprised by the amount of corrosion under the spacer.

How's the seat post freedom of movement and the BB removeablity? Andy

Nineball

Hi Andy and thanks for your quick reply,

The bottom bracket came out with some force, and the seat post movement was good - it has an alloy frame and seatpost, so didn't encounter any rust.

I'd like to buy a new headset first before I apply a hacksaw - is this an integrated or internal headset, and are all headsets of the same kind compatible? The bike has a standard 1-1/8 headtube.

Thanks!

fietsbob

another Pyrrhic* Bargain. A Mallet is a soft Hammer . whack it.

from the ancient history https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pyrrhic_victory

Nineball

I tried many times, but it wouldn't budge (and I'm afraid of damaging the alloy frame).

fietsbob

Off to the Bike shop with you, and your bike , You're over your abilities ..

let someone else who is a better problem solver, fix it.

you bought a money pit.

dedhed

Unfortunately in many shops this is "over their abilities" and problem solving skills, not to mention $$$.


OP needs to start soaking that in Kroil/PB blaster/liquid wrench or other penetrant for a few days and try again.

fietsbob

You guys dont want to pay the kind of costs that support retaining Help in shops long enough to get any experience ..

Heck, Now that tenure-track professors are so rare The Post Grad degree Wives of the Bike Shop guys
can't even subsidize their Pay packets.

Yea, It's Rusted and seized Up ..

Nineball

Thanks for the many replies, but I got the bike (or at least, a nice, light and correctly-sized alloy frame) for $100 and have no intention of taking it to a shop given that $100 is about one hour's labour rate here in Australia.

I'm going to just cut the top spacer off with a hacksaw and replace the headset given that it does seem to be rusted - could I get some advice on looking for a replacement headset?

Johnny Mullet

I had a worst case scenario on a Huffy beach cruiser that had a stuck threaded type fork/stem and the only way to get the stem out was to hack off the stem, remove the fork, and then use heat to expand the metal to remove it............

Gresp15C

I've done the spiral hacksaw cut on other things that were seized up, not bike related. It sounds like a good thing to try, but only after a good penetrating-oil-soak. Just try not to cut all the way through, as the hope is that the screwdriver will crack it open once the material is weakened by a deep enough hacksaw cut.

Le Mechanic

This is actually a pretty common site for bikes that see a lot of trainer time with minimal clean up/maintenance. I usually soak it with PB Blaster for a bit. Smack the top of the steerer tube side to side with a mallet. It looks like somebody has tried to grip the spacer with vise grips or channel locks or something, so you might as well keep at it. If you can't get it to twist and break loose, just cut it off as the others have suggested.
The dust cap hopefully should come off fairly easy. If you can get all that off, I usually alternate smacking the steerer tube on the sides and the top. Once you get some play in the headset, the compression ring is breaking loose and you're on your way.

dedhed

Headset Standards - Park Tool

Crankycrank

This^^^ Before cutting or trashing anything give it a good soaking for a few days with any of these penetrants. A 50/50 mixture of automatic transmission fluid and acetone works as well if not better than any of these if you happen to have both on hand already.

3alarmer 

...that stuff is magical. Try not to get it on paint, plastic, rubber.

Nineball

Thanks, that's what I was looking for - turns out I need a 1-1/8 Cane Creek internal headset. Going to get a replacement before I destroy the old one!

I used penetrating fluid, but no luck. If other fluids don't work, probably will resort to using the hacksaw.

Thanks for all your help - I'll be able to get the forks off and the headset replaced one way or another!