Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Should QR Skewer Flex the rear triangle enough to Fit the Axle in?

Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Should QR Skewer Flex the rear triangle enough to Fit the Axle in?

Old 11-10-15, 06:54 AM
  #1  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
jerrduford's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 122
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Should QR Skewer Flex the rear triangle enough to Fit the Axle in?

So I have a new bike and I've been having some rear wheel noise. I've had very little other issues with the bike, and had already gone over most everything.

I decided to check the rear hub / Free Hub Body. Upon removing the rear wheel, I noticed the QR skewer was VERY tight (required screwdriver through the slot in the end of the lever to pry). I didn't see anything out of alignment (did remove the dork disc), but when I went to put the wheel back in, I noticed that if I right-align first (bike upside-down) where the axle fits into the dropout and the disc into its caliper, there is close to a massive .5-1CM gap between the end of the drive-side of the axle and the beginning of the rear dropout.

When I tighten the QR Quite a bit, I can get the alignment close enough to push the axle into alignment (but not in) with the rear dropout. I then have to flex the drive side seat stay just a bit to get the axle into the rear dropout. Then I tighten the QR as far as humanly possible and clamp down. It seems to stay in the dropouts, but I'm not sure if the axle is seated with enough of a portion of the axle in the dropout. The noise continues, as well. Possibly something else, possibly due to extremely tight rear QR?

My main concern is - How normal is this, and should I be worried? If necessary I can get some pictures/a video, but I figured it might just be 'normal'.

Aluminum frame, fat bike, 150MM rear spacing, disc brakes.
jerrduford is offline  
Old 11-10-15, 07:14 AM
  #2  
Super Moderator
 
Homebrew01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ffld Cnty Connecticut
Posts: 21,839

Bikes: Old Steelies I made, Old Cannondales

Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1173 Post(s)
Liked 913 Times in 603 Posts
I find it easier to work on the bike right side up, letting the frame down onto the wheel. Also, easier visually when the bike is in its normal position, instead of looking at everything upside-down .
__________________
Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.

FYI: https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sugg...ad-please.html
Homebrew01 is offline  
Old 11-10-15, 07:20 AM
  #3  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Morris County, NJ
Posts: 1,102

Bikes: 90's Bianchi Premio, Raleigh-framed fixed gear, Trek 3500, Centurion hybrid, Dunelt 3-spd, Trek 800

Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2167 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
You're saying that your axle is too short to span the 150 mm width of your rear triangle unless you flex the stays? Can it be that you have too much axle protruding through the other dropout? That could be fixed with spacers. Did you unintentionally move spacers from ones side to the other?
habilis is offline  
Old 11-10-15, 07:30 AM
  #4  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
jerrduford's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 122
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by habilis
You're saying that your axle is too short to span the 150 mm width of your rear triangle unless you flex the stays? Can it be that you have too much axle protruding through the other dropout? That could be fixed with spacers. Did you unintentionally move spacers from ones side to the other?
Good suggestion - I actually have not opened the rear hub - The spacing is stock and I took a look at the axle length and it appears to be centered (equal protruding lengths on either side)
jerrduford is offline  
Old 11-10-15, 07:49 AM
  #5  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Morris County, NJ
Posts: 1,102

Bikes: 90's Bianchi Premio, Raleigh-framed fixed gear, Trek 3500, Centurion hybrid, Dunelt 3-spd, Trek 800

Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2167 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by jerrduford
Good suggestion - I actually have not opened the rear hub - The spacing is stock and I took a look at the axle length and it appears to be centered (equal protruding lengths on either side)
That begs the question: Why is your axle too short for the frame? Did someone swap hubs or wheels on you? Unfortunately, you can't safely cold-set aluminum. I'd research the correct OLD for your bike and see if it's 150 or something less. If less, resetting involves some risk.
habilis is offline  
Old 11-10-15, 08:04 AM
  #6  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,656

Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!

Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2025 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,091 Times in 737 Posts
It sounds like the rear hub is not the right one for this bike and it was either a manufacturer or dealer error. You said the bike is new so I recommend returning it to the dealer to have the mis-match corrected. A couple of mm width difference is ok, 5 to 10 mm is not ok.
HillRider is offline  
Old 11-10-15, 02:17 PM
  #7  
Full Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 359
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 74 Post(s)
Liked 19 Times in 14 Posts
' I recommend returning it to the dealer
A couple of mm width difference is ok, 5 to 10 mm is not ok.'


Hillrider is on the money, take that bike back, 10mm is a ridiculous gap
headasunder is offline  
Old 11-10-15, 03:55 PM
  #8  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Morris County, NJ
Posts: 1,102

Bikes: 90's Bianchi Premio, Raleigh-framed fixed gear, Trek 3500, Centurion hybrid, Dunelt 3-spd, Trek 800

Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2167 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by headasunder
' I recommend returning it to the dealer
A couple of mm width difference is ok, 5 to 10 mm is not ok.'


Hillrider is on the money, take that bike back, 10mm is a ridiculous gap
Also, if the summer-hire kid who assembled it needed a screw driver to operate the QR lever, he doesn't know what QR means.
habilis is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
treesloth
Bicycle Mechanics
6
07-27-17 07:42 PM
geezerwheels
Bicycle Mechanics
20
12-02-14 01:58 PM
arex
Bicycle Mechanics
5
07-27-14 02:59 PM
paultech6
Bicycle Mechanics
13
09-23-12 08:04 AM
JeffOYB
Bicycle Mechanics
10
10-15-11 07:10 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.