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BBRight: To loctite or not to loctite?

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BBRight: To loctite or not to loctite?

Old 11-10-15, 10:09 PM
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BBRight: To loctite or not to loctite?

I've my new frame arriving sometime this week and I'm debating whatever or not to use loctite 609 to keep the BB in place with no creaking. On the forums I see it is a common practice to use the primer and loctite 609 to have a creaking free ride but the manufacturer of the BB says I should not use loctite.
I will be using a wheels mfg BBright to GXP BB:

BBRight? Outboard ABEC-3 BB for 24/22mm (SRAM) Cranks - Black

Have you guys had any experience with the wheels mfg BB's? any reason to not use the loctite?
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Old 11-11-15, 12:50 AM
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The WheelsMfg BB shouldn't use any Loctite at all, especially if you have an aluminum BB shell/insert.

If you experience any creaking with the WheelsMfg BB, you may want to check that your BB shell is clean and faced square (if it's aluminum).
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Old 11-11-15, 01:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Jamminatrix
The WheelsMfg BB shouldn't use any Loctite at all, especially if you have an aluminum BB shell/insert.

If you experience any creaking with the WheelsMfg BB, you may want to check that your BB shell is clean and faced square (if it's aluminum).
Thanks, that is what the wheels mfg rep said. But aren't all shells Aluminum?
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Old 11-11-15, 05:40 AM
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Originally Posted by HazeT
But aren't all shells Aluminum?
Not on steel frames.

I follow manufacturers' recommendations by default, absent a compelling reason not to. The assumption is that they know their product better than I do.
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Old 11-11-15, 12:30 PM
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You can use a thread locker - BUT you will have a difficult time removing the component, for example with Loctite 609 you will need to heat the assembly: "For Disassembly1. Apply localized heat to the assembly to approximately250 °C. Disassemble while hot." 250°C will severely damage decals, many plastics, and many paints (not powder coat).
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Old 11-11-15, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by HazeT
. . . any reason to not use the loctite?
Do you mean any reason other than the one you posted?
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Old 11-11-15, 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by AnkleWork
Do you mean any reason other than the one you posted?
Yes, I'm kinda confused with the manufacturer of the BB stating not use loctite and everyone else with a PF30 saying use it or the creaks will drive you nuts.
I was wondering if that is just the manufacturer cover his ass type of thing, where there is no harm in using and the benefits "guaranteed silent BB?" would outweigh any downsides.
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Old 11-11-15, 05:54 PM
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There is no correct answer here, just opinions. My opinion would be to try it as the mfg recommends, then use the thread locker if it becomes noisy.
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Old 11-11-15, 06:30 PM
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Ah, The 2 halves screw together, BUT, the Ends Go in a Press Fit BB shell.. , so If anything, want to play with Loc Tite Chemicals?,

anti-sieze (grease) the threads and use a bearing seating product on the edges of the BB shell [loc tite red?]
Wheels produced sleeves, the bearings part May be Pressed Out, leaving the rest of it in place,

then you only need to buy more bearing races themselves ABEC 3 | Enduro Bearings

Enduro brand bearings use a 90% ball fill in them so not the spacers and fewer balls of Highspeed electric Motor bearings..

I have Enduro 6001 bearings in my wheel Hubs ..

Last edited by fietsbob; 11-12-15 at 12:48 PM.
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Old 11-11-15, 09:56 PM
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I don't know what kind of frame you've got but, on steel or aluminum frames Loctite would not be a good idea for a BB IMHO. I usually go the opposite way on these. I apply a liberal amount of wheel bearing grease all over the threads & make sure to torque the BB down properly. I don't want the hassle of trying to disassemble a glued in BB in the future.
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Old 11-11-15, 10:21 PM
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right, no reason to paint, or glue, yourself into a corner without cause.
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Old 11-12-15, 05:42 AM
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Originally Posted by fietsbob
Ah, The 2 halves screw together, BUT, the Ends Go in a Press Fit BB shell.. , so If anything, want to play with Loc Tite Chemicals,

anti-sieze (grease) the threads and use a bearing seating product on the edges of the BB shell [loc tite red?]
Wheels produced sleeves, the bearings part May be Pressed Out, leaving the rest of it in place,

then you only need to buy more bearing races themselves ABEC 3 | Enduro Bearings

Enduro brand bearings use a 90% ball fill in them so not the spacers and fewer balls of Highspeed electric Motor bearings..

I have Enduro 6001 bearings in my wheel Hubs ..
OP, if you experience creaks that won't go away with tightening, only then consider any kind of adhesive. In the Loc-tite hierarchy, red is non-permanent and can be disengaged without heat. There was a thread posted not long ago by someone who used 609. He not only cemented the BB to the shell permanently, he also managed to fuse the spindle so it couldn't rotate anymore. The bike is now a wall-hanging.

Apparently, if you use 609, you are confident that the BB will last forever because it's never coming out. Is there a BB that comes with a guarantee like that?

Last edited by habilis; 11-12-15 at 05:48 AM.
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Old 11-12-15, 05:53 AM
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Hey, no RED Loctite please! Use the blue 242 stuff.
Phil Wood includes a blue threadlocker when you purchase a BB. Outboard bearings or Inboard square taper....don't know what yours is. I use it. With grease it will loosen up while riding...
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Old 11-12-15, 06:04 AM
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Originally Posted by trailangel
Hey, no RED Loctite please! Use the blue 242 stuff.
Phil Wood includes a blue threadlocker when you purchase a BB. Outboard bearings or Inboard square taper....don't know what yours is. I use it. With grease it will loosen up while riding...
I'd trust whatever Phil recommends, but do we know exactly what it is?
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Old 11-12-15, 09:19 AM
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Ok then get a Frame without a Press Fit BB .. 'old fashioned' Threaded
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Old 11-12-15, 12:05 PM
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I had a VW Beetle back in the 70's. Got a flat. Corroded lug nuts could not be removed with hand operated lug wrench. Had to have a shop bust them off. Some snapped & had to be replaced. Became an $$ expensive PITA $$$. Since then (over the last 40 years or so) I've applied axle grease to the lug bolts on all my cars. Probably driven something like a five million miles during that time period. Never had a lug nut come off once. Never had a stuck lug nut since either. Of course I'm not driving in the Monaco Grand Prix. But, the point being - don't worry about greasing bolt threads. They're not going to slip off.
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Old 11-12-15, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by nfmisso
You can use a thread locker - BUT you will have a difficult time removing the component, for example with Loctite 609 you will need to heat the assembly: "For Disassembly1. Apply localized heat to the assembly to approximately250 °C. Disassemble while hot." 250°C will severely damage decals, many plastics, and many paints (not powder coat).
This is 250 degrees C., not F. That's 482 degrees F which I assume will indeed damage powder coat and ruin the temper of most Aluminum alloys. Also, the Wheels threads are in the middle of the bottom bracket shell and you would have to put the entire frame in the oven to heat it.
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Old 11-12-15, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by HillRider
This is 250 degrees C., not F. That's 482 degrees F which I assume will indeed damage powder coat .......
Depends on the powder coat. I was involved in reworking some assemblies (not bicycle) that had been red loctite 271 and M5x0.8 bolts. We had to use propane torches (1967° C flame temperature) to be able to the break loose the bolts - with the flame directly on a powder coated aluminum extrusion. There was not a mark on the (very high cosmetic requirements) powder coat afterwards. Of course it depends on the quality of the powder coat, and the cosmetic requirements afterwards.
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Old 11-12-15, 04:39 PM
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Interesting to see that park tools recommends using loctite:
Bottom Bracket Standards - Park Tool

"Press the new bearings into the frame using a retaining compound such as LoctiteŽ RC™ 609. Even using a threadlocker such LoctiteŽ 242 at would be better than pressing the bearings into the shell dry."
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Old 11-12-15, 04:43 PM
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No such thing If sticking to the original topic

The BBright™ is a proprietary design by the CerveloŽ company. This is basically a version of the BB30 or PF30 system. The bottom bracket shell is very wide. However, the shell is not centered to the center plane or middle of the bike. The bike features a large left side chainstay, so the shell is offset to the left to accommodate this. The frame shell for this design is 79mm, but 45mm of that sticks out to the left, while 34mm sticks out to the right.
To further complicate the BBright™ system, there are two types. BBright™ Direct Fit is basically a BB30 type bearing fit, with a shell inside diameter of nominally 42mm. The BBright™ Press Fit is a PF30 style, with an inside diameter of nominally 46mm. As a result of the wider frame shells, the crank must be compatible with the BBright™ system.

If you change the topic to threaded BBshells then you may be more on topic, your Own. .
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Old 08-10-16, 11:07 AM
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Highly recommend Loctite 680 for BBright "noise" solutions. Solved my Cervelo R3 / Rotor crank issues after multiple efforts.
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Old 08-10-16, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by ramzilla
I had a VW Beetle back in the 70's. Got a flat. Corroded lug nuts could not be removed with hand operated lug wrench. Had to have a shop bust them off. Some snapped & had to be replaced. Became an $$ expensive PITA $$$. Since then (over the last 40 years or so) I've applied axle grease to the lug bolts on all my cars. Probably driven something like a five million miles during that time period. Never had a lug nut come off once. Never had a stuck lug nut since either. Of course I'm not driving in the Monaco Grand Prix. But, the point being - don't worry about greasing bolt threads. They're not going to slip off.
Those cars used lug bolts, not nuts, and they were a b***h to get off. I had the same issue with a 1972 Beetle.
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