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Suntour FD cable housing stop missing -- workaround?

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Suntour FD cable housing stop missing -- workaround?

Old 11-12-15, 02:32 PM
  #1  
noobinsf 
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Suntour FD cable housing stop missing -- workaround?

Newbie question:

I just bought a vintage Suntour Cyclone MII FD, but I failed to notice that the cable housing stop was missing (see pic). Will this be impossible to find? Can I work around its absence or craft a suitable/reliable fix?

Thanks...

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Old 11-12-15, 02:55 PM
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You can hose clamp/zip tie the housing to the frame in the appropriate spot. It won't work as nicely, and will require fiddling, but will work.
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Old 11-12-15, 03:03 PM
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Why not just look for another FD it's not like they are expensive.

using a Plastic under the BB guide you dont need the housing stop.

Last edited by fietsbob; 11-12-15 at 03:08 PM.
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Old 11-12-15, 03:39 PM
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Perhaps the cable housing stop from a Weinmann-style caliper brake could be adapted for use. You would get a barrel adjuster as well.
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Old 11-12-15, 03:50 PM
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Thanks for these ideas, everyone! I'll let you know how it goes.
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Old 11-12-15, 05:58 PM
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Try to find a downtube housing stop at a coop or a old LBS and mount that to the seat tube just below the derailleur . they the clamp style and was use on older bikes for a long time .
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Old 11-12-15, 11:02 PM
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Some of those Cyclone Mk II derailleurs didn't have integrated cable stops. I have one of the band-on types (as opposed to clamp-on) w/o the stop.

I had this issue with a replacement derailleur I put on a Motobecane and used an Origin 8 single cable stop (around $7-8) as a work-around.



Or you could go old school and try to obtain a bottom bracket guide like this:


Last edited by Vintage_Cyclist; 11-13-15 at 10:21 AM.
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Old 11-13-15, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
Why not just look for another FD it's not like they are expensive.
Simplest and cleanest solution. Probably the cheapest too.
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Old 03-11-16, 02:52 PM
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@ vintage cyclist: Wow. That cable guide is nice!
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Old 03-11-16, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Vintage_Cyclist View Post
Some of those Cyclone Mk II derailleurs didn't have integrated cable stops. I have one of the band-on types (as opposed to clamp-on) w/o the stop.

I had this issue with a replacement derailleur I put on a Motobecane and used an Origin 8 single cable stop (around $7-8) as a work-around.



Or you could go old school and try to obtain a bottom bracket guide like this:

The second photo showing a Campy BB cable guide has the front der cable miss positioned in the guide. The guide is designed to have the cable enter (from above/up the DT) onto the smallet tab and then transition to the longer tap which curves slightly around the back side of the ST. This way the guide tab has a greater ability to secure the cable when the cable goes slack as well as the cable will travel along the DT in a parallel to the DT and below the center line of the DT (the 5:00 or 7:00 point, rotationally) when the upper end of the cable (on the DT) is either a campy double stop or the DT mounted levers. The way the photo shows the cable path will have the cable traveling diagonally WRT the tube's centerline.

This isn't a big deal but if that bike were ever to be shown at a concours show it would be a point or more off the bike's score. And if that were the way a race bike were set up and the cable ever slipped off the guide during a race the mechanic would be sorry, maybe out of a job. Andy.
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Old 03-11-16, 05:13 PM
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Here is your stop.



The upper derailleur, "Sprint" has a non-removable stop, and is unique in that the cable is connected to a fixed bolt, and the hosing stop moves. The derailleur is normally on the big ring when cable is released (lever forward), and shifts into the small ring when the lever is pulled back. So, like the rear, harder with shift lever forward, and easier when shift lever back.

The stop scews out with the lower derailleur as you've shown.

I've thought about cutting a similar stop out of a bolt head, but the heads typically aren't deep enough to be large enough to do it. You could also braze a stop onto a bolt, but it would mess with your angles.
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Old 03-11-16, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Vintage_Cyclist View Post
Or you could go old school and try to obtain a bottom bracket guide like this:
Or, you could mount a guide under the bottom bracket and route just the FD cable under the bottom bracket.
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Old 03-12-16, 06:59 PM
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Yes, that would work. Thanks again to someone showing me what the manufacture intended for the job.
Originally Posted by CliffordK View Post
Here is your stop.



The upper derailleur, "Sprint" has a non-removable stop, and is unique in that the cable is connected to a fixed bolt, and the hosing stop moves. The derailleur is normally on the big ring when cable is released (lever forward), and shifts into the small ring when the lever is pulled back. So, like the rear, harder with shift lever forward, and easier when shift lever back.

The stop scews out with the lower derailleur as you've shown.

I've thought about cutting a similar stop out of a bolt head, but the heads typically aren't deep enough to be large enough to do it. You could also braze a stop onto a bolt, but it would mess with your angles.
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Old 03-12-16, 07:09 PM
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Steel rod, drilled and counter bored, and a Lathe

reducing the larger rod to 5mm then threading it on the lathe

Or a 5 x .8 threading die will make them ..

Last edited by fietsbob; 03-12-16 at 07:13 PM.
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Old 09-30-21, 10:00 AM
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Why did they make the cable stop removable?
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Old 09-30-21, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by James1964 View Post
Why did they make the cable stop removable?
so, you could lose it twenty/thirty years later
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Old 09-30-21, 10:23 AM
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That's what I was thinking as I went to install one that is missing the cable stop. Now I remember why I placed it in the parts-bin many years ago.
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Old 12-17-21, 07:47 AM
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Another solution

Saw another FD cable stop thread going shortly after I was looking at this one. I found something in my parts stash to affect a change to the Cyclone Mkll and thought others might be interested. I have since decided to use a VX front on this build instead. The part is the cable stop end from this brake QR bracket. I think I had a loose one laying around. Threads matched.





Then, a couple washers to get a nice shoulder to tighten to and get a proper alignment, and then add a brake cable barrel adjuster.








Thought this could be helpful for future reference.
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